INDONESIA
Bali, Lombok, Gili Islands, Java
(2001)
Uluwatu Temple, Bali
Landing in a Surfer’s Paradise: My First Stop in Bali
Stepping off the plane in Bali back in 2001, marking the beginning of an incredible five-week solo journey, I was instantly hit by a wave of vibrant, chaotic energy. Right at the airport, I practically ran into dozens of surfers, all struggling to carry massive, heavy board bags that looked almost impossible to haul through the tropical heat. While they were clearly here to chase the island’s legendary waves, my own mission was focused on exploring Bali's rich cultural heart. Fate, however, had a beautiful way of connecting our paths. I decided to help one of the struggling surfers wrestle with his oversized luggage, and in return for the helping hand, he offered to take me straight to my very first destination: the iconic Uluwatu Temple.
Landing in a Surfer’s Paradise: My First Stop in Bali
Stepping off the plane in Bali back in 2001, marking the beginning of an incredible five-week solo journey, I was instantly hit by a wave of vibrant, chaotic energy. Right at the airport, I practically ran into dozens of surfers, all struggling to carry massive, heavy board bags that looked almost impossible to haul through the tropical heat. While they were clearly here to chase the island’s legendary waves, my own mission was focused on exploring Bali's rich cultural heart. Fate, however, had a beautiful way of connecting our paths. I decided to help one of the struggling surfers wrestle with his oversized luggage, and in return for the helping hand, he offered to take me straight to my very first destination: the iconic Uluwatu Temple.
Perched spectacularly on the edge of a massive, 70-meter-high cliff facing the roaring Indian Ocean, the sea temple (Pura Luhur Uluwatu) took my breath away. We spent the afternoon exploring the ancient stone paths, though we quickly had to focus on outsmarting the notoriously cheeky temple monkeys, who were busy trying to snatch anything they could get their hands on. Amidst the fun, I spent a wonderful time interacting and joking around with the local Balinese children, who looked absolutely beautiful dressed in their vibrant, traditional ceremonial sarongs and temple attire. To top off a perfect first day, we headed down the cliffside after our cultural tour to wash off the travel dust, ending the golden afternoon with a deeply refreshing swim in the crystal-clear ocean waters below.
Quick Facts: Uluwatu Temple (Pura Luhur Uluwatu)
- The Location: Perched dramatically on the southwest edge of a 70-meter-high steep limestone cliff overlooking the roaring Indian Ocean.
- The Purpose: Built as one of Bali's six spiritual pillars (Sad Kahyangan), it is dedicated to protecting the island from evil sea spirits.
- The Heritage: Established in the 11th century by the Javanese sage Empu Kuturan, and later expanded by the legendary Hindu priest Dang Hyang Nirartha.
Mengwi / Alas Kedaton (Royal Family Temple)
Starting My Temple Tour: Exploring Bali's Spiritual Heart
With Uluwatu as my introduction, I set off on an extensive temple tour across the island. My friend Jan with who I travelled in New Zealand together, I met her in Bali and she gave me that advice. Over the next few days, I would immerse myself deeply in Bali's unique Hindu spirituality, moving from grand royal sanctuaries to mystical forest shrines.
Starting My Temple Tour: Exploring Bali's Spiritual Heart
With Uluwatu as my introduction, I set off on an extensive temple tour across the island. My friend Jan with who I travelled in New Zealand together, I met her in Bali and she gave me that advice. Over the next few days, I would immerse myself deeply in Bali's unique Hindu spirituality, moving from grand royal sanctuaries to mystical forest shrines.
Quick Facts: Pura Taman Ayun (Mengwi Royal Temple) & Alas Kedaton
- The Royal Sanctuary (Mengwi): Built in 1634 by the King of Mengwi, Pura Taman Ayun is a stunning royal family temple surrounded by a wide, scenic moat that mirrors a floating garden.
- The Architecture: It is famous for its multi-tiered shrines (meru towers), which represent the sacred mountains, reaching high into the Balinese sky.
- The Monkey Forest (Alas Kedaton): Located nearby, this historic megabat and monkey sanctuary features a secluded forest temple where hundreds of wild macaques roam freely.
- The Sacred Guardians: In local tradition, the monkeys and massive fruit bats inhabiting the dense jungle around Alas Kedaton are considered sacred protectors of the temple grounds.
Bangli / Pura Kehen Temple
Quick Facts: Pura Kehen (Bangli)
Quick Facts: Pura Kehen (Bangli)
- The Scale: Established in the 11th century, Pura Kehen is the second largest temple complex on the island, surpassed only by the mother temple, Pura Besakih.
- The Layout: Built into a steep misty hillside, the sanctuary features a dramatic terraced design with three distinct courtyards leading up to the most sacred shrines.
- The Banyan Tree: The ancient outermost courtyard is dominated by a massive, centuries-old sacred Banyan tree, which holds a wooden drum (Kulkul) high in its branches to summon the local villagers.
- The Architecture: It is deeply famous for its unique, historical entrance gate decorated with porcelain plates from old Chinese traders, and its magnificent 11-tiered meru shrine dedicated to the supreme Hindu trinity
Pura Besakih
Quick Facts: Pura Besakih (The Mother Temple)
- The Ultimate Scale: Known universally as the "Mother Temple" of Bali, it is the largest, most important, and holiest Hindu temple complex on the entire island.
- The Mega Complex: It is a massive sanctuary comprising at least 86 individual clan temples and shrines, all terraced neatly up the slopes of the mountain.
- The Sacred Volcano: Perched over 1,000 meters high on the southwest slopes of Mount Agung, Bali’s tallest and most sacred active volcano.
- The Miracle of 1963: During a catastrophic volcanic eruption of Mount Agung in 1963, the lava flows miraculously missed the main temple complex by mere meters, which the Balinese saw as a profound sign from the gods.
Pura Tanah Lot
Quick Facts: Pura Tanah Lot
- The Sea Icon: One of Bali's most photographed temples, built on a large offshore rock formation created entirely by ocean tide erosion over centuries.
- The Sacred Chain: It belongs to a chain of seven sea temples along the coast, each built within eyesight of the next to form a spiritual line of defense against negative energies.
- The Snake Legend: According to local belief, venomous black-and-white striped sea snakes inhabit the caves at the base of the rock to guard the temple from intruders.
- The Location: Situated in Beraban Village, in the Tabanan Regency, approximately 20 kilometers northwest of Kuta and Denpasar.
Sunset Magic at the Edge of the Ocean
My temple journey next brought me to the spectacular shores of Tabanan to witness the mystical beauty of Pura Tanah Lot. As the afternoon light softened, I stood on the shoreline and watched this architectural marvel get completely cut off from the mainland by the rising tide. The temple sat proudly on its jagged coral rock, constantly battered by the powerful, white waves of the Indian Ocean. Waiting among the crowds on the cliffs, the final moments of the day delivered exactly what I had hoped for. The sun slowly dipped beneath the horizon, painting the entire Balinese sky in intense shades of deep orange, fiery red, and dusty purple, silhouetting the ancient shrines perfectly against the glowing water. It was a deeply peaceful, cinematic experience that captured the true magic of Bali's rugged coast.
My temple journey next brought me to the spectacular shores of Tabanan to witness the mystical beauty of Pura Tanah Lot. As the afternoon light softened, I stood on the shoreline and watched this architectural marvel get completely cut off from the mainland by the rising tide. The temple sat proudly on its jagged coral rock, constantly battered by the powerful, white waves of the Indian Ocean. Waiting among the crowds on the cliffs, the final moments of the day delivered exactly what I had hoped for. The sun slowly dipped beneath the horizon, painting the entire Balinese sky in intense shades of deep orange, fiery red, and dusty purple, silhouetting the ancient shrines perfectly against the glowing water. It was a deeply peaceful, cinematic experience that captured the true magic of Bali's rugged coast.
Kuta, Bali
A Taste of Luxury in Kuta: Living like a Princess
Staying in Kuta back in 2001 introduced me to a completely new side of budget travel. It was the very first time in my life that I checked into a hotel that felt like a high-end luxury resort while being incredibly cheap.
Staying in Kuta back in 2001 introduced me to a completely new side of budget travel. It was the very first time in my life that I checked into a hotel that felt like a high-end luxury resort while being incredibly cheap.
I had my very own private Balinese bungalow, a beautiful swimming pool right at my doorstep, and the entire property was decorated with elaborate wooden artwork. I found the highly detailed wood carvings depicting various Kamasutra positions absolutely amusing—a playful nod to a relaxed vibe of "free love" hidden in the local artistry.
To make my stay even better, I decided to treat myself to the first professional massage of my life right there at the hotel. It felt absolutely amazing after my intense temple explorations, completely washing away all my travel fatigue and showing me why Balinese wellness is famous worldwide.
Elephant Cave temple, Goa Gajah
Stepping Through the Mouth of the Earth
My next excursion across Bali brought me to the mystical valley of Bedulu to explore the legendary Elephant Cave temple, Goa Gajah. The moment I arrived at the site, I was completely blown away by the entrance, which is easily one of the most striking and unforgettable sights on the island. The cave mouth is carved directly into a sheer rock cliff, framed by an incredibly detailed, swirling mess of stone demons, animals, and mythical guardians. Walking inside felt like literally stepping straight through the mouth of a massive stone giant into another world. The interior of the cave was dark, damp, and heavy with the scent of incense, leading to small, hollowed-out niches where ancient priests once meditated in absolute silence.
Stepping Through the Mouth of the Earth
My next excursion across Bali brought me to the mystical valley of Bedulu to explore the legendary Elephant Cave temple, Goa Gajah. The moment I arrived at the site, I was completely blown away by the entrance, which is easily one of the most striking and unforgettable sights on the island. The cave mouth is carved directly into a sheer rock cliff, framed by an incredibly detailed, swirling mess of stone demons, animals, and mythical guardians. Walking inside felt like literally stepping straight through the mouth of a massive stone giant into another world. The interior of the cave was dark, damp, and heavy with the scent of incense, leading to small, hollowed-out niches where ancient priests once meditated in absolute silence.
Quick Facts: Goa Gajah (The Elephant Cave)
- The Ancient Origin: Established around the 9th to 11th century, this historic site served as a deeply sacred sanctuary for both Hindu and Buddhist meditators
- The Name Mystery: Despite being called the "Elephant Cave," elephants are not native to Bali; the name likely references the river Petanu, which was historically known as the Elephant River, or the carving of the Hindu elephant god Ganesha inside the cave.
- The Demon Portal: The famous, dramatic cave entrance features a massive, menacing face carved directly into the living rock cliff, traditionally believed to represent the earth god Bhoma or an ogre meant to ward off evil spirits
- The Holy Pools: Located right in the central courtyard is a large, deep bathing pool featuring six stone statues of water nymphs holding spouting jars, which was buried for centuries and only excavated in the 1950s
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Gianyar Quick Facts: Balinese Weaving & Ikat in Gianyar
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The Heartbeat of Balinese Art: Visiting Gianyar's Weavers
Our cultural journey next brought us to Gianyar, a region deeply celebrated as the beating heart of Bali’s traditional textile art. Stepping inside a local workshop, I was instantly fascinated by the rhythmic, clacking sounds of heavy wooden handlooms filling the air. This first photograph captures two local artisans completely absorbed in their intricate work, meticulously preparing the fine, pale warp threads on the large frames. Watching their skilled hands navigate the massive maze of strings was mesmerizing—every single movement was quick yet incredibly precise, showing a deep mastery passed down through generations. It was a beautiful, authentic look into the slow, soulful process that turns raw thread into Balinese masterpieces, completely free from modern machinery. |
Spinning Threads and Time-Honored Tools
Moving deeper into the workshop, this second image captures the foundational stage of the weaving process: spinning and preparing the raw yarn. Two local women sit beside large, rustic wooden spinning wheels that have clearly weathered years of dedicated craftsmanship. The artisan on the left leans forward with intense focus, carefully guiding the fine white threads onto a wooden bobbin frame, her hands moving in perfect harmony with the old wheel. Beside her, another woman pauses for a brief moment, surrounded by wooden crates overflowing with raw materials and bobbins. There are no automated assembly lines or modern factories here; the quiet dedication of these women and the steady spin of the wooden wheels are the true forces behind Gianyar’s world-famous textile heritage. |
The Delicate Art of Perfection
This third photograph brings us up close with the incredible detail that defines Balinese craftsmanship. A young artisan leans intently over her workstation, her focus entirely locked onto the delicate task before her. Using a small tool, she is carefully shaping or applying intricate pink flower elements onto a white canvas, while a collection of finished, beautifully detailed floral patterns rests right beside her hands. The newspapers covering her desk highlight the raw, workshop environment where this pure magic happens. It is a stunning visual reminder that in Gianyar, art isn’t just manufactured; it is painstakingly created piece by piece, flower by flower, through endless patience and ultimate precision. |
Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana
Into the Mystical Realm of Ubud's Monkey Forest
My solo adventure next brought me into the deep, emerald heart of Ubud to explore the magical grounds of the Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, universally known as the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Stepping beneath the thick, interlocking jungle canopy, I felt as though I had crossed the threshold into an entirely different world. The forest was incredibly mystical, with ancient, twisted tree roots clawing at the earth and thick carpets of vibrant green moss hanging heavily over the stone paths. Scattered throughout the shadows were weathered stone statues that looked like fearsome monsters and mythical demons, their carved grimaces adding a thrilling, ancient atmosphere to the jungle.
Yet, the true heart and soul of this sanctuary are its lively inhabitants. The monkeys here were absolutely sweet, and I spent hours simply watching their social routines. The absolute highlight of my walk was spotting a gentle monkey mother carefully cradling a tiny, wide-eyed baby, carrying it protectively as she navigated the mossy stones. The entire mood of the forest shifted beautifully whenever the bright tropical sun managed to pierce through the dense, heavy foliage. As the golden sunbeams cut through the misty air and illuminated the moss and the ancient stone faces, it gave the entire place a completely different, breathtakingly ethereal flair that felt pure, peaceful, and wonderfully divine.
Into the Mystical Realm of Ubud's Monkey Forest
My solo adventure next brought me into the deep, emerald heart of Ubud to explore the magical grounds of the Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana, universally known as the Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary. Stepping beneath the thick, interlocking jungle canopy, I felt as though I had crossed the threshold into an entirely different world. The forest was incredibly mystical, with ancient, twisted tree roots clawing at the earth and thick carpets of vibrant green moss hanging heavily over the stone paths. Scattered throughout the shadows were weathered stone statues that looked like fearsome monsters and mythical demons, their carved grimaces adding a thrilling, ancient atmosphere to the jungle.
Yet, the true heart and soul of this sanctuary are its lively inhabitants. The monkeys here were absolutely sweet, and I spent hours simply watching their social routines. The absolute highlight of my walk was spotting a gentle monkey mother carefully cradling a tiny, wide-eyed baby, carrying it protectively as she navigated the mossy stones. The entire mood of the forest shifted beautifully whenever the bright tropical sun managed to pierce through the dense, heavy foliage. As the golden sunbeams cut through the misty air and illuminated the moss and the ancient stone faces, it gave the entire place a completely different, breathtakingly ethereal flair that felt pure, peaceful, and wonderfully divine.
Quick Facts: Mandala Wisata Wanara Wana (Ubud Monkey Forest)
- The Sanctuary: A sacred nature reserve and temple complex spanning 12.5 hectares of dense, ancient jungle, home to over a thousand long-tailed macaques.
- The Three Temples: Deep within the forest lie three sacred Hindu temples built in the 14th century, dedicated to various deities and spiritual protection.
- The Tri Hita Karana: The forest is managed based on the ancient Balinese philosophy of harmony between humans, nature, and the divine.
- The Jungle Flora: The reserve protects around 115 distinct species of trees, many of which are considered holy and are used in traditional Balinese rituals.
Ubud Palace
Winged Guardians of the Royal Palace
Exploring the historic courtyards of the Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung), I was completely captivated by the unbelievable quality of the wood carvings and sculptures. This striking, colorful totem was the absolute coolest piece I discovered, displaying a fascinating glimpse into Balinese mythology.
The magnificent creature dominating the top of the sculpture is Singa Bersayap—the mythical Winged Lion of Balinese folklore. In traditional Balinese culture, the lion is a revered symbol of power, absolute courage, and spiritual protection. With its widespread, colorful wings, bulging eyes, and bared fangs, this fierce guardian sits proudly atop a decorative pedestal to ward off negative energies and protect the sacred royal grounds from evil forces.
Winged Guardians of the Royal Palace
Exploring the historic courtyards of the Ubud Palace (Puri Saren Agung), I was completely captivated by the unbelievable quality of the wood carvings and sculptures. This striking, colorful totem was the absolute coolest piece I discovered, displaying a fascinating glimpse into Balinese mythology.
The magnificent creature dominating the top of the sculpture is Singa Bersayap—the mythical Winged Lion of Balinese folklore. In traditional Balinese culture, the lion is a revered symbol of power, absolute courage, and spiritual protection. With its widespread, colorful wings, bulging eyes, and bared fangs, this fierce guardian sits proudly atop a decorative pedestal to ward off negative energies and protect the sacred royal grounds from evil forces.
Beneath the majestic lion, the base of the pillar features a dramatic, tightly tangled cluster of human-like figures or forest spirits (Buta Kala). Carved in expressive, dynamic poses, they represent the earthly or underworld forces. In Balinese philosophy, these lower spirits are not necessarily viewed as purely evil, but rather as raw worldly energies that need to be kept in check. Seeing this artistic stack—where the powerful, heavenly lion sits triumphantly above the struggling figures below—was a perfect, stunning reminder of how Balinese art beautifully visually maps the eternal cosmic balance between the upper spiritual world and the lower earthly realm.
Singa Bersayap
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Quick Facts: Puri Saren Agung (Ubud Palace)
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Legong Dance
This is a classical dance which is usually staged in the palace courtyard to entertain the king. It is performed by three girls dancers in colorful costumes. The story is adapted from the classical story of King Lasem in which the arrogant King Lasem desired the unwilling Princess Langke Sari whose father plans to stay. King Lasem himself is alter killed in a battle.
This is a classical dance which is usually staged in the palace courtyard to entertain the king. It is performed by three girls dancers in colorful costumes. The story is adapted from the classical story of King Lasem in which the arrogant King Lasem desired the unwilling Princess Langke Sari whose father plans to stay. King Lasem himself is alter killed in a battle.
Kecak and Fire Dance Trena Jengala
(Padang Tegal, Ubud)
Kecak is of the classical dance style and is performed by over one hundred dancers and singers. The Music is unique to this performance, for there are no musical instruments. The sounds you will hear are the human voice and some handclapping.
The story is taken from the great RAMAYANA epic, written 100's years ago by the Indian Hindu author Bagawan Valmiki.
This myth dramatizes the eternal conflict between good (Dharma) and evil (Adharma). The forces of good are symbolized by Rama and his allies, while Rahwana and his allies are symbolized by evil. Both were king: Rama of Ayodia and Rahwana of Alengka.
(Padang Tegal, Ubud)
Kecak is of the classical dance style and is performed by over one hundred dancers and singers. The Music is unique to this performance, for there are no musical instruments. The sounds you will hear are the human voice and some handclapping.
The story is taken from the great RAMAYANA epic, written 100's years ago by the Indian Hindu author Bagawan Valmiki.
This myth dramatizes the eternal conflict between good (Dharma) and evil (Adharma). The forces of good are symbolized by Rama and his allies, while Rahwana and his allies are symbolized by evil. Both were king: Rama of Ayodia and Rahwana of Alengka.
Ubud's Art Galleries
From Masterpieces to Masterful Eccentricity: Ubud's Art Scene
After immersing myself in Ubud's royal history, I spent the afternoon strolling through the town’s famous artistic lanes to explore its legendary art galleries. My first stop was the renowned Neka Art Museum, which offered a beautiful, deeply educational journey through the evolution of Balinese painting. But the absolute highlight of the day—and arguably the coolest gallery I’ve ever stepped into—was the incredible Blanco Renaissance Museum.
From Masterpieces to Masterful Eccentricity: Ubud's Art Scene
After immersing myself in Ubud's royal history, I spent the afternoon strolling through the town’s famous artistic lanes to explore its legendary art galleries. My first stop was the renowned Neka Art Museum, which offered a beautiful, deeply educational journey through the evolution of Balinese painting. But the absolute highlight of the day—and arguably the coolest gallery I’ve ever stepped into—was the incredible Blanco Renaissance Museum.
Mario Blanco Gallery
The moment you enter the estate of the late Don Antonio Blanco, you realize you haven’t just walked into a gallery, but into the mind of a genius often dubbed the "Dali of Bali." Blanco was an absolute eccentric who fell in love with a traditional Balinese dancer and built a magical, palace-like studio on a hilltop. The gallery was wild, theatrical, and deeply captivating. His paintings mostly celebrate the fluid beauty of the female form, but what made them mind-blowing were the frames—Antonio custom-designed massive, swirling, and colorful borders for each piece, making the frame an active, physical extension of the artwork itself. The energy of the place was so infectious that I couldn't resist buying two prints of Mario Blanco's work to take a piece of that artistic madness home with me.
The moment you enter the estate of the late Don Antonio Blanco, you realize you haven’t just walked into a gallery, but into the mind of a genius often dubbed the "Dali of Bali." Blanco was an absolute eccentric who fell in love with a traditional Balinese dancer and built a magical, palace-like studio on a hilltop. The gallery was wild, theatrical, and deeply captivating. His paintings mostly celebrate the fluid beauty of the female form, but what made them mind-blowing were the frames—Antonio custom-designed massive, swirling, and colorful borders for each piece, making the frame an active, physical extension of the artwork itself. The energy of the place was so infectious that I couldn't resist buying two prints of Mario Blanco's work to take a piece of that artistic madness home with me.
The "Dali of Bali": The Wild Genius of Don Antonio Blanco
To truly understand the magic of the Blanco Museum, you have to look into the mind of Mario's father, Don Antonio Blanco. Born in Manila to Spanish parents in 1912, Antonio was an absolute eccentric, a larger-than-life showman who ran in the same aesthetic circles as Salvador Dalí and thoroughly enjoyed shocking conservative society. With his signature beret, flowing silk scarves, and theatrical mustache, he turned his entire existence on a hilltop in Ubud into a massive piece of performance art, attracting legendary global icons like Michael Jackson, David Bowie, and Ingrid Bergman to his tropical sanctuary.
Antonio's artistic focus was centered on the celebration of the human form. For him, the figure was a symbol of natural aesthetic harmony, a philosophy that informed his expressive and figurative paintings. His primary muse was his wife, Ni Rondji—a celebrated Balinese Legong dancer whom he married in 1952. Despite the bold nature of his portraits for the time, Antonio focused on capturing the grace of his subjects, often blending anatomy with mythical birds, poetry, and coastal folklore. He famously sought to break away from traditional presentation, designing elaborate three-dimensional frames that complemented the fluid lines of his paintings. He was an unapologetic spirit who dedicated his life to art and the study of the human figure, leaving behind a creative legacy that remains a central part of the gallery's identity today.
To truly understand the magic of the Blanco Museum, you have to look into the mind of Mario's father, Don Antonio Blanco. Born in Manila to Spanish parents in 1912, Antonio was an absolute eccentric, a larger-than-life showman who ran in the same aesthetic circles as Salvador Dalí and thoroughly enjoyed shocking conservative society. With his signature beret, flowing silk scarves, and theatrical mustache, he turned his entire existence on a hilltop in Ubud into a massive piece of performance art, attracting legendary global icons like Michael Jackson, David Bowie, and Ingrid Bergman to his tropical sanctuary.
Antonio's artistic focus was centered on the celebration of the human form. For him, the figure was a symbol of natural aesthetic harmony, a philosophy that informed his expressive and figurative paintings. His primary muse was his wife, Ni Rondji—a celebrated Balinese Legong dancer whom he married in 1952. Despite the bold nature of his portraits for the time, Antonio focused on capturing the grace of his subjects, often blending anatomy with mythical birds, poetry, and coastal folklore. He famously sought to break away from traditional presentation, designing elaborate three-dimensional frames that complemented the fluid lines of his paintings. He was an unapologetic spirit who dedicated his life to art and the study of the human figure, leaving behind a creative legacy that remains a central part of the gallery's identity today.
Fine Art and Massive Wooden Surprises
My day of artistic hunting didn't stop there. Continuing my stroll through Ubud's bustling markets, I eventually found myself wandering through the famous woodcarving sections. Balinese woodworkers are globally famous for their ultimate precision, but they also have a fantastic, completely uninhibited sense of humor. Amidst the endless rows of traditional gods and elegant animal sculptures, I stumbled upon the legendary phallic carvings that are heavily tied to local fertility symbols and ancient jokes. Amused by the sheer craftsmanship and the "free love" vibe of the island, I went all-in on the fun and haggled my way into buying two immense wooden penises (I repurposed them into a bracelet and jewelry holder). Hauling those giant carvings along with my newly acquired Blanco art prints through the streets of Ubud was easily one of the most hilarious, unforgettable highlights of my solo journey.
My day of artistic hunting didn't stop there. Continuing my stroll through Ubud's bustling markets, I eventually found myself wandering through the famous woodcarving sections. Balinese woodworkers are globally famous for their ultimate precision, but they also have a fantastic, completely uninhibited sense of humor. Amidst the endless rows of traditional gods and elegant animal sculptures, I stumbled upon the legendary phallic carvings that are heavily tied to local fertility symbols and ancient jokes. Amused by the sheer craftsmanship and the "free love" vibe of the island, I went all-in on the fun and haggled my way into buying two immense wooden penises (I repurposed them into a bracelet and jewelry holder). Hauling those giant carvings along with my newly acquired Blanco art prints through the streets of Ubud was easily one of the most hilarious, unforgettable highlights of my solo journey.
The Rice Terraces of Sayan and Bukit Jambul
Our route back crossed two of Bali's most distinct agricultural landscapes: Sayan Village in the center and Bukit Jambul in the east. Both locations demonstrate the adaptation of traditional rice farming to vastly different topographic conditions.
Sayan Village: Terraces of the Ayung River Gorge
Located in the Gianyar Regency on the western outskirts of Ubud, Sayan features rice cultivation adapted to extreme slopes.
Situated in the Karangasem Regency, Bukit Jambul sits approximately 500 meters above sea level along the main route leading toward the Pura Besakih mother temple.
Our route back crossed two of Bali's most distinct agricultural landscapes: Sayan Village in the center and Bukit Jambul in the east. Both locations demonstrate the adaptation of traditional rice farming to vastly different topographic conditions.
Sayan Village: Terraces of the Ayung River Gorge
Located in the Gianyar Regency on the western outskirts of Ubud, Sayan features rice cultivation adapted to extreme slopes.
- Topography: The terraces are carved directly into the steep vertical walls of the deep Ayung River valley, closely intertwined with dense tropical rainforest.
- Infrastructure: The fields are managed through the traditional Subak system, a UNESCO-recognized cooperative water management network dating back to the 9th century.
Situated in the Karangasem Regency, Bukit Jambul sits approximately 500 meters above sea level along the main route leading toward the Pura Besakih mother temple.
- Etymology: The name translates to "Crested Hill". This refers to the Pura Pucak Sari temple and its ring of ancient Banyan trees on the peak, which resemble a rooster's crest from a distance.
Klungkung
The historic Court of Justice is located in Bali, specifically in the town of Semarapura within the eastern Klungkung Regency. Known locally as Kertha Gosa, this site served as the supreme court of the Klungkung Kingdom, which was the highest and most important of Bali's nine traditional kingdoms from the late 17th century until 1908.
The historic Court of Justice is located in Bali, specifically in the town of Semarapura within the eastern Klungkung Regency. Known locally as Kertha Gosa, this site served as the supreme court of the Klungkung Kingdom, which was the highest and most important of Bali's nine traditional kingdoms from the late 17th century until 1908.
- The Ceiling Paintings: The open-air pavilion is globally famous for its spectacular ceiling frescoes painted in the traditional Kamasan style. The multi-tiered artwork depicts vivid, graphic scenes of sins and their respective gruesome punishments in the underworld, serving as a moral warning to defendants awaiting trial.
The Sound of Bali: Traditional Gamelan Jegog
During my visit to Klungkung, I had the chance to hear the distinct sounds of local musicians playing the Gamelan Jegog. Unlike the more common bronze gamelan instruments found across Java and Bali, the Jegog is made entirely from bamboo.
During my visit to Klungkung, I had the chance to hear the distinct sounds of local musicians playing the Gamelan Jegog. Unlike the more common bronze gamelan instruments found across Java and Bali, the Jegog is made entirely from bamboo.
- Material and Construction: The instrument consists of large, hollow bamboo tubes suspended horizontally inside a beautifully carved and painted wooden frame.
- The Sound: Musicians strike the bamboo resonance tubes with specialized padded mallets. This creates a deeply resonant, warm, and earthy percussion sound that carries through the open pavilions of the historic site.
Padangbai Port
Gateway to the Islands
My journey continues to Padangbai, a crucial coastal town located in the Karangasem Regency of eastern Bali. Serving as the island's primary maritime transit hub, this bustling port connects Bali to the neighboring islands of the Indonesian archipelago. From its docks, public ferries and fast boats depart daily toward Lombok, the Gili Islands, and the Nusa Islands, making it the central gateway for sea travel in the region.
Gateway to the Islands
My journey continues to Padangbai, a crucial coastal town located in the Karangasem Regency of eastern Bali. Serving as the island's primary maritime transit hub, this bustling port connects Bali to the neighboring islands of the Indonesian archipelago. From its docks, public ferries and fast boats depart daily toward Lombok, the Gili Islands, and the Nusa Islands, making it the central gateway for sea travel in the region.
Lombok
Passing Lombok: The Island of Mount Rinjani
Leaving Padangbai behind, our boat route headed east across the Lombok Strait, passing the coastline of Lombok. While many travelers disembark here, our journey continued further.
Leaving Padangbai behind, our boat route headed east across the Lombok Strait, passing the coastline of Lombok. While many travelers disembark here, our journey continued further.
Facts about Lombok:
- Geography and Location: Lombok is located in the West Nusa Tenggara province, separated from Bali by the deep Lombok Strait. This strait forms part of the Wallace Line, a famous biogeographical boundary where the flora and fauna shift from Asian to Australasian types.
- Topography: The island's landscape is dominated by Mount Rinjani, an active stratovolcano rising to 3,726 meters, making it the second-highest volcano in Indonesia.
- Culture and Religion: Unlike Hindu-dominated Bali, the indigenous people of Lombok are the Sasak, who make up about 85% of the population. The primary religion on the island is Islam, giving Lombok its famous nickname, "The Island of a Thousand Mosques."
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Gili Trawangan (GILI Island)
Arriving in Paradise: The Car-Free Gili Islands
After passing Lombok, I finally reached my destination: the Gili Islands. The first thing that struck me upon stepping onto the sand was the absolute absence of traffic noise. Motorized vehicles are strictly banned here. There are no cars and no scooters. Instead, the only ways to move around are on foot, by bicycle, or by using the traditional horse-drawn carts known as Cidomos.
The beaches are lined with traditional Indonesian Jukung boats resting on the shore. These wooden outrigger canoes with their bamboo stabilizers are still used by local fishermen and for short trips between the reefs. Traveling solo here feels incredibly peaceful. The island operates at a completely different pace, driven only by the sound of the ocean and the occasional jingling bells of the passing horse carts.
After passing Lombok, I finally reached my destination: the Gili Islands. The first thing that struck me upon stepping onto the sand was the absolute absence of traffic noise. Motorized vehicles are strictly banned here. There are no cars and no scooters. Instead, the only ways to move around are on foot, by bicycle, or by using the traditional horse-drawn carts known as Cidomos.
The beaches are lined with traditional Indonesian Jukung boats resting on the shore. These wooden outrigger canoes with their bamboo stabilizers are still used by local fishermen and for short trips between the reefs. Traveling solo here feels incredibly peaceful. The island operates at a completely different pace, driven only by the sound of the ocean and the occasional jingling bells of the passing horse carts.
Sasak Architecture on the Gili Islands
While exploring the island, I came across a striking piece of traditional architecture: a Sambilu (or Sambi), which is a traditional rice barn of the Sasak people. Although the Sasak are indigenous to neighboring Lombok, their unique cultural footprint and building styles extend straight to the Gili Islands. The structure is built on tall wooden stilts to elevate the harvest, protecting it from ground moisture and pests. The closed upper chamber is used to store rice, while the woven bamboo walls and thick thatched roof made of dried Alang-Alang grass keep the interior perfectly dry. Seeing this iconic, curved roofline right by the coast is a beautiful reminder of the deep architectural and agricultural ties between Lombok and the Gilis.
While exploring the island, I came across a striking piece of traditional architecture: a Sambilu (or Sambi), which is a traditional rice barn of the Sasak people. Although the Sasak are indigenous to neighboring Lombok, their unique cultural footprint and building styles extend straight to the Gili Islands. The structure is built on tall wooden stilts to elevate the harvest, protecting it from ground moisture and pests. The closed upper chamber is used to store rice, while the woven bamboo walls and thick thatched roof made of dried Alang-Alang grass keep the interior perfectly dry. Seeing this iconic, curved roofline right by the coast is a beautiful reminder of the deep architectural and agricultural ties between Lombok and the Gilis.
Island Leisure: Giant Chess and Traditional Congkak
As I walked further into the island's car-free streets, I discovered a beautiful outdoor recreation area with game tables carved entirely out of local natural stone.
As I walked further into the island's car-free streets, I discovered a beautiful outdoor recreation area with game tables carved entirely out of local natural stone.
- Giant Stone Chess: In one corner stands a heavy stone chessboard with large, hand-carved playing pieces. Chess—locally known as Catur—is incredibly popular across Indonesia, and finding an outdoor setup right in the sand highlights the island's laid-back, community-centered lifestyle.
- Traditional Congkak: Next to it is a long stone table featuring two rows of carved circular hollows. This is Congkak, a traditional Southeast Asian Mancala board game. Players move small shells or seeds from one hole to another in a tactical race to collect the most pieces.
Fast Facts: The Gili Islands
- Location: A mini-archipelago of three small islands (Gili Trawangan, Gili Meno, Gili Air) located off the northwest coast of Lombok, Indonesia.
- Geography: Flat, low-lying coral islands surrounded by white sand beaches and shallow coral reefs.
- Transport Policy: Strictly motorized vehicle-free. No cars, trucks, or scooters are permitted. Movement is limited to bicycles, walking, and traditional horse-drawn carts (Cidomos).
- Indigenous Culture: Historically uninhabited until the late 20th century; today, the permanent population is predominantly Sasak (originally from Lombok).
- Environment & Wildlife: Part of a marine conservation area famous for its resident population of Hawksbill and Green sea turtles.
Crossing to Java: The 38-Hour Transit to Yogyakarta
After leaving the Gili Islands, I crossed the sea by boat to the island of Java, embarking on the next major leg of my Indonesian journey toward Yogyakarta. What followed was a brutal 38-hour endurance test on the road.
Twelve people, ten backpacks, one VW bus: The nightmare journey to Yogyakarta. Ten of us—plus two drivers, making twelve people in total—squeezed into a tiny VW bus from the 1950s. To make matters worse, ten huge, stuffed trekking backpacks also had to be stowed inside. Since there was no room in the trunk, the bags were piled up in the footwells, forcing me to rest my legs on top of them.
As if being packed in like sardines wasn't torture enough, the drivers were also tearing along the roads like absolute maniacs. And the whole ordeal dragged on for an unimaginable 38 hours! But fortunately, we had one stop in between: Mount Merpati
After leaving the Gili Islands, I crossed the sea by boat to the island of Java, embarking on the next major leg of my Indonesian journey toward Yogyakarta. What followed was a brutal 38-hour endurance test on the road.
Twelve people, ten backpacks, one VW bus: The nightmare journey to Yogyakarta. Ten of us—plus two drivers, making twelve people in total—squeezed into a tiny VW bus from the 1950s. To make matters worse, ten huge, stuffed trekking backpacks also had to be stowed inside. Since there was no room in the trunk, the bags were piled up in the footwells, forcing me to rest my legs on top of them.
As if being packed in like sardines wasn't torture enough, the drivers were also tearing along the roads like absolute maniacs. And the whole ordeal dragged on for an unimaginable 38 hours! But fortunately, we had one stop in between: Mount Merpati
Volcano Facts Mount Merapi
The name comes from the old Javanese language. Meru means mountain and Api means fire, translating literally to Mountain of Fire.
Located on the border between Central Java and the Special Region of Yogyakarta, the active stratovolcano rises to an elevation of approximately 2910 meters.
Merapi is statistically recognized as Indonesia’s most active volcano among the country's 130 active peaks. It is designated as one of the world's Decade Volcanoes due to its history of large, destructive eruptions and its immediate proximity to a major population center, sitting just about 30 kilometers north of Yogyakarta.
Unlike volcanoes that produce slow lava rivers, Merapi is famous for its highly viscous lava domes that periodically collapse. This collapse triggers pyroclastic flows, which are lethal avalanches of superheated volcanic gas, ash, and rock traveling down the slopes at speeds exceeding 100 kilometers per hour.
The name comes from the old Javanese language. Meru means mountain and Api means fire, translating literally to Mountain of Fire.
Located on the border between Central Java and the Special Region of Yogyakarta, the active stratovolcano rises to an elevation of approximately 2910 meters.
Merapi is statistically recognized as Indonesia’s most active volcano among the country's 130 active peaks. It is designated as one of the world's Decade Volcanoes due to its history of large, destructive eruptions and its immediate proximity to a major population center, sitting just about 30 kilometers north of Yogyakarta.
Unlike volcanoes that produce slow lava rivers, Merapi is famous for its highly viscous lava domes that periodically collapse. This collapse triggers pyroclastic flows, which are lethal avalanches of superheated volcanic gas, ash, and rock traveling down the slopes at speeds exceeding 100 kilometers per hour.
The Rescue Mission on the Mountain: Helping a Fellow Traveler
While at the mountain stop, another major incident occurred. Two English travelers, Johnny and James, who had been riding in the VW bus with me, approached me with urgent news. They mentioned there was someone in the common room downstairs who seemed to be a fellow countryman of mine and desperately needed assistance.
I went downstairs and found a guy named Huc from Frankfurt. He was wrapped tightly in his sleeping bag, sitting on a chair and suffering from severe chills. It turned out he had contracted Dengue fever and urgently needed to get back to the city for medical treatment.
I asked Johnny and James if they could help me move him. Packed with two heavy trekking backpacks—my own and Huc's—we sprang into action. Johnny and James supported Huc between them to help him walk, and together we managed to get him down and load him into the bus. With Huc safely inside, our chaotic journey continued toward the city.
While at the mountain stop, another major incident occurred. Two English travelers, Johnny and James, who had been riding in the VW bus with me, approached me with urgent news. They mentioned there was someone in the common room downstairs who seemed to be a fellow countryman of mine and desperately needed assistance.
I went downstairs and found a guy named Huc from Frankfurt. He was wrapped tightly in his sleeping bag, sitting on a chair and suffering from severe chills. It turned out he had contracted Dengue fever and urgently needed to get back to the city for medical treatment.
I asked Johnny and James if they could help me move him. Packed with two heavy trekking backpacks—my own and Huc's—we sprang into action. Johnny and James supported Huc between them to help him walk, and together we managed to get him down and load him into the bus. With Huc safely inside, our chaotic journey continued toward the city.
Medical Evacuation and Arrival in Yogyakarta
Upon reaching Yogyakarta, the immediate priority was securing safe accommodation and medical care for Huc. Unfortunately, his severe condition meant he had to cut his journey short. Due to the tropical climate in Southeast Asia, European travelers with advanced Dengue fever are often strongly advised to return to their home countries for recovery. In Huc's case, the situation was highly critical. Upon landing in Frankfurt, an ambulance was waiting directly on the tarmac to transport him straight to the hospital.
With Huc safely on his way home, my solo journey continued in Yogyakarta, a city renowned as the cultural heart of Java and the gateway to some of the world's most spectacular ancient monuments.
Upon reaching Yogyakarta, the immediate priority was securing safe accommodation and medical care for Huc. Unfortunately, his severe condition meant he had to cut his journey short. Due to the tropical climate in Southeast Asia, European travelers with advanced Dengue fever are often strongly advised to return to their home countries for recovery. In Huc's case, the situation was highly critical. Upon landing in Frankfurt, an ambulance was waiting directly on the tarmac to transport him straight to the hospital.
With Huc safely on his way home, my solo journey continued in Yogyakarta, a city renowned as the cultural heart of Java and the gateway to some of the world's most spectacular ancient monuments.
The Monumental Borobudur Temple
My temple tour began with the world-famous Borobudur Temple, located approximately 40 kilometers northwest of Yogyakarta. This massive archaeological treasure stands as one of the greatest Buddhist monuments ever constructed.
Historical Background: Built in the 8th and 9th centuries during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, Borobudur predates Cambodia's Angkor Wat by roughly three centuries. It was abandoned around the 14th century following the decline of Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms in Java and lay hidden for hundreds of years under layers of volcanic ash and dense jungle growth until its rediscovery in 1814.
My temple tour began with the world-famous Borobudur Temple, located approximately 40 kilometers northwest of Yogyakarta. This massive archaeological treasure stands as one of the greatest Buddhist monuments ever constructed.
Historical Background: Built in the 8th and 9th centuries during the reign of the Sailendra Dynasty, Borobudur predates Cambodia's Angkor Wat by roughly three centuries. It was abandoned around the 14th century following the decline of Hindu-Buddhist kingdoms in Java and lay hidden for hundreds of years under layers of volcanic ash and dense jungle growth until its rediscovery in 1814.
Architectural Structure: The temple is built as a single, massive step pyramid made of approximately two million blocks of volcanic stone, constructed without the use of mortar. It is designed in the shape of a giant Mandala, representing the Buddhist cosmology.
The Tiers: The structure consists of nine stacked platforms—six square lower terraces and three circular upper terraces. This design guides visitors on a symbolic pilgrimage pathway. As you walk upward, you pass through the three realms of Buddhist cosmology: Kamadhatu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and Ahadhatu (the world of formlessness).
The Tiers: The structure consists of nine stacked platforms—six square lower terraces and three circular upper terraces. This design guides visitors on a symbolic pilgrimage pathway. As you walk upward, you pass through the three realms of Buddhist cosmology: Kamadhatu (the world of desire), Rupadhatu (the world of forms), and Ahadhatu (the world of formlessness).
Bas-Reliefs and Buddhas: The walls of the lower square terraces are carved with over 2,600 individual bas-relief panels, which stretch for over two kilometers and depict Buddhist doctrines and Javanese life from a millennium ago. The upper circular terraces feature 72 openwork bell-shaped stupas, each housing a statue of Buddha gazing out over the Kedu Plain.
The Prambanan Temple
From Buddhist Sunset to Hindu Dawn
The timing of my temple tour worked out perfectly. Because I visited Borobudur late in the afternoon, I was able to witness a spectacular sunset over the volcanic plains. The next day, I headed out to explore the architectural counterpart of Java's history: the magnificent Prambanan Temple.
Located just 17 kilometers northeast of Yogyakarta, Prambanan stands as the largest Hindu temple compound in Indonesia and one of the grandest in Southeast Asia.
Historical Origins: Built in the 9th century—roughly half a century after Borobudur—Prambanan was constructed during the Sanjaya Dynasty. It was built as a grand tribute to the Hindu Trimurti: Shiva (the Destroyer), Vishnu (the Preserver), and Brahma (the Creator). Like Borobudur, it was abandoned in the 10th century when the Javanese power center shifted eastward, and it suffered heavy damage from historical earthquakes before being systematically restored in the 20th century.
From Buddhist Sunset to Hindu Dawn
The timing of my temple tour worked out perfectly. Because I visited Borobudur late in the afternoon, I was able to witness a spectacular sunset over the volcanic plains. The next day, I headed out to explore the architectural counterpart of Java's history: the magnificent Prambanan Temple.
Located just 17 kilometers northeast of Yogyakarta, Prambanan stands as the largest Hindu temple compound in Indonesia and one of the grandest in Southeast Asia.
Historical Origins: Built in the 9th century—roughly half a century after Borobudur—Prambanan was constructed during the Sanjaya Dynasty. It was built as a grand tribute to the Hindu Trimurti: Shiva (the Destroyer), Vishnu (the Preserver), and Brahma (the Creator). Like Borobudur, it was abandoned in the 10th century when the Javanese power center shifted eastward, and it suffered heavy damage from historical earthquakes before being systematically restored in the 20th century.
- Architectural Layout: The original compound consisted of 240 individual temples. The center of the complex features a raised inner courtyard containing the six main towering structures. The architecture follows traditional Hindu cosmic design, pointing vertically toward the heavens.
- The Main Spire: The tallest central structure is the Shiva Temple, which rises to an impressive height of 47 meters. Inside its stone chambers sit large statues of Shiva, his wife Parvati (as Durga), his son Ganesha, and his teacher Agastya.
- The Ramayana Reliefs: The inner walls of the galleries are adorned with detailed bas-reliefs that illustrate the epic story of the Ramayana. The narrative panels are meant to be read by walking around the temple clockwise, a traditional ritual known as pradaksina.
A Spiritual Procession: Ogoh-Ogoh at Prambanan
While exploring the grounds of Prambanan, I stumbled upon a spectacular and rare sight: a vibrant, traditional Hindu procession moving past the ancient stone temples.
While exploring the grounds of Prambanan, I stumbled upon a spectacular and rare sight: a vibrant, traditional Hindu procession moving past the ancient stone temples.
- The Demon Statues: The centerpiece of the parade was a massive, red-skinned monster statue known as an Ogoh-Ogoh. These giant, fierce-looking figures are hand-built to represent Bhuta Kala, or evil spirits and negative cosmic energies that disrupt human life.
- The Ritual of Purification: I watched as a large group of men, dressed in traditional ceremonial attire, carried the heavy wooden and bamboo platform on their shoulders. They rhythmically shook and rotated the statue to loud music. This ritual, called Tawur Kesanga, is performed to frighten away bad omens and cleanse the sacred environment before the arrival of the Hindu New Year.
Swapping Roles in Yogyakarta: When Tourists Drive the Rickshaw
In Indonesia—specifically in Yogyakarta—Jamie and Johnny had a brilliant idea. Unlike in Thailand, the classic rickshaws (becaks) here are still powered solely by human muscle using a bicycle mechanism, making it back-breaking work for the locals.
On the spur of the moment, the boys decided to swap roles to give the drivers a break: they hopped into the saddle and pedaled hard! The actual driver got to sit up front with me in the cozy cabin instead. It was a priceless moment. For a brief instant, the Javanese man could simply be a passenger himself—leaning back and watching his own hometown drift by from a completely new perspective. (A look at the photo shows just how much fun we all had!)
In Indonesia—specifically in Yogyakarta—Jamie and Johnny had a brilliant idea. Unlike in Thailand, the classic rickshaws (becaks) here are still powered solely by human muscle using a bicycle mechanism, making it back-breaking work for the locals.
On the spur of the moment, the boys decided to swap roles to give the drivers a break: they hopped into the saddle and pedaled hard! The actual driver got to sit up front with me in the cozy cabin instead. It was a priceless moment. For a brief instant, the Javanese man could simply be a passenger himself—leaning back and watching his own hometown drift by from a completely new perspective. (A look at the photo shows just how much fun we all had!)
Wayang Kulit (Shadow Theater) & Wayan Golek (Puppet Theater)
The stories are religious stories, the puppets created by holy men and Wayang is a required element of Balinese religious ceremonies. It used to be performed only within a sacred context, and the Dalang in his role as the instigator of activity, conflict and conclusion is considered during the performance to be an embodiment of the Hindu god, Siwa. Wayang is an essential medium of Balinese culture and its idiom is the root of traditional Balinese painting, dance and even the ways people behave toward each other in everyday life.
Taman Sari Water Castle
The Sultan’s Hidden Oasis
Back in Yogyakarta, my cultural exploration led me to Taman Sari, the historic water castle of the Yogyakarta Sultanate. I met a local of Yogyakarta who showed me a few hidden parts of the city.
Built in the mid-18th century under the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, this grand complex served as a royal pleasure garden, resting area, and defense fortress for the royal family.
The Sultan’s Hidden Oasis
Back in Yogyakarta, my cultural exploration led me to Taman Sari, the historic water castle of the Yogyakarta Sultanate. I met a local of Yogyakarta who showed me a few hidden parts of the city.
Built in the mid-18th century under the reign of Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, this grand complex served as a royal pleasure garden, resting area, and defense fortress for the royal family.
- The Blue Pools: The most iconic area is the Umang Pasir, a central courtyard featuring two large, brilliant blue swimming pools surrounded by high, pale pink stone walls. This area was reserved exclusively for the Sultan, his wives, and daughters to bathe and relax.
- Secret Underworld: Beyond the pools lies a subterranean network of tunnels and chambers. The highlight of this underground labyrinth is the Sumur Gumuling, a unique circular underground mosque. It features a central staircase where five distinct walkways meet, designed both for spiritual practice and as a secret escape route during times of war.
- Architectural Fusion: The complex showcases a distinct blend of Javanese and European architectural styles. The Sultan hired a Portuguese architect—locally known as Demang Tegis—to design the structures, resulting in a combination of traditional Javanese motifs and European-style stone masonry, arches, and water features.
The Kraton Palace
The Sultan’s Main Seat
To get the full picture of Yogyakarta’s royal history, I visited the Kraton Palace (Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat) on the same day as the Taman Sari Water Castle. I explored both grand complexes together with my local guide, whose insider knowledge provided invaluable context to the physical structures.
Built in 1755 by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, the Kraton serves as the primary living palace of the ruling Sultan and remains the beating cultural and spiritual heart of the city.
The Sultan’s Main Seat
To get the full picture of Yogyakarta’s royal history, I visited the Kraton Palace (Kraton Ngayogyakarta Hadiningrat) on the same day as the Taman Sari Water Castle. I explored both grand complexes together with my local guide, whose insider knowledge provided invaluable context to the physical structures.
Built in 1755 by Sultan Hamengkubuwono I, the Kraton serves as the primary living palace of the ruling Sultan and remains the beating cultural and spiritual heart of the city.
- Cosmic Alignment: The entire palace layout is built along a strict north-south axis. It aligns perfectly in a straight line with Mount Merapi to the north and the Indian Ocean to the south, representing the balance between the earthly and spiritual realms.
- Traditional Javanese Architecture: The complex features grand open-air pavilions known as Pendopo, constructed with massive teakwood pillars and intricate gold and green carvings. The roofs follow the traditional Joglo style, which tapers upward to simulate a sacred mountain.
- Living Museum: The palace is protected by the Abdi Dalem—the traditional royal guards dressed in traditional Javanese batik clothing and daggers (Keris), who maintain the palace grounds out of absolute devotion to the sultanate.
The Yogyakarta Bird Market
After leaving the grand palaces, my local guide brought me to one of the city's most bustling traditional spots: the Pasar Burung (the local bird market, historically known as Pasar Ngasem). While it is a deeply rooted part of Javanese daily life, visiting it as an outsider was a tough emotional experience.
After leaving the grand palaces, my local guide brought me to one of the city's most bustling traditional spots: the Pasar Burung (the local bird market, historically known as Pasar Ngasem). While it is a deeply rooted part of Javanese daily life, visiting it as an outsider was a tough emotional experience.
- The Cultural Context: In Javanese tradition, keeping a caged songbird (Burung) is a historical symbol of status, patience, and a complete domestic life for men. Singing competitions for birds are incredibly popular across the island, which drives the massive scale of these markets.
- The Reality: Walking through the narrow aisles, I was surrounded by thousands of cages stacked from floor to ceiling. Although the market is a vibrant explosion of sounds and colors, seeing so many birds confined to such tiny spaces made me feel incredibly sorry for them.
Ramayaman Ballet
The Ramayana Ballet brings to life the ancient Hindu epic of love, loyalty, and the ultimate triumph of good over evil. The story begins in the Dandaka forest, where the noble Prince Rama, his beautiful wife Sita, and his brother Laksmana live in exile. Desiring Sita for her beauty, the demon king Rahwana sends a magical golden deer as a distraction. While Rama and Laksmana are away chasing the creature, Rahwana seizes the opportunity to kidnap Sita and carry her off to his kingdom of Alengka.
Devastated by her loss, Rama launches a rescue mission and forms an alliance with Hanuman, the powerful leader of the mythical white monkey army. Hanuman infiltrates the demon kingdom first, reassuring Sita and single-handedly setting fire to the capital city. The epic culminates in a massive, chaotic war between the monkey warriors and the demon forces. In the final battle, Rama defeats Rahwana with a divine arrow and is reunited with Sita, proving that righteousness always overcomes evil.
The Ramayana Ballet brings to life the ancient Hindu epic of love, loyalty, and the ultimate triumph of good over evil. The story begins in the Dandaka forest, where the noble Prince Rama, his beautiful wife Sita, and his brother Laksmana live in exile. Desiring Sita for her beauty, the demon king Rahwana sends a magical golden deer as a distraction. While Rama and Laksmana are away chasing the creature, Rahwana seizes the opportunity to kidnap Sita and carry her off to his kingdom of Alengka.
Devastated by her loss, Rama launches a rescue mission and forms an alliance with Hanuman, the powerful leader of the mythical white monkey army. Hanuman infiltrates the demon kingdom first, reassuring Sita and single-handedly setting fire to the capital city. The epic culminates in a massive, chaotic war between the monkey warriors and the demon forces. In the final battle, Rama defeats Rahwana with a divine arrow and is reunited with Sita, proving that righteousness always overcomes evil.
Rice fields near Yogyakarta
Bogor
Avoiding the Chaos: A Brief Escape to Bogor
With my departure flight scheduled from Jakarta, a fellow traveler recommended that I spend my final days in the nearby city of Bogor instead. They told me it would be much safer and far less chaotic than the massive capital.
Avoiding the Chaos: A Brief Escape to Bogor
With my departure flight scheduled from Jakarta, a fellow traveler recommended that I spend my final days in the nearby city of Bogor instead. They told me it would be much safer and far less chaotic than the massive capital.
- The Botanical Garden Destination: My main goal in the city was to visit the famous Bogor Botanical Gardens (Kebun Raya Bogor). Founded by the Dutch in 1817, this world-renowned, 87-hectare green oasis sits right in the city center and surrounds the grand presidential palace (Istana Bogor).
- The Near-Miss: Ironically, my search for safety and peace took a terrifying turn before I even entered the grounds. As I was walking near the busy streets outside the park, a local public bus completely missed seeing me and came tearing around the corner. I was nearly run over and had to jump out of the way at the very last second.
Ancient Giants and Royal Deer in Bogor
After surviving the chaotic traffic outside, stepping into the Bogor Botanical Gardens felt like entering a different world. The absolute highlight for me was standing in front of the park's ancient, towering tropical trees, which feature massive, undulating buttress roots that snake across the forest floor like giant wooden waves. These colossal root systems allow the rainforest giants to remain stable in the shallow tropical soil.
Adding to the magic of the scenery, the lush green lawns directly bordering the grand Bogor Presidential Palace are home to hundreds of elegant, spotted Axis deer. Seeing these peaceful animals grazing freely against the backdrop of colonial-era architecture and monumental nature provided the perfect, serene contrast to the near-miss on the road.
After surviving the chaotic traffic outside, stepping into the Bogor Botanical Gardens felt like entering a different world. The absolute highlight for me was standing in front of the park's ancient, towering tropical trees, which feature massive, undulating buttress roots that snake across the forest floor like giant wooden waves. These colossal root systems allow the rainforest giants to remain stable in the shallow tropical soil.
Adding to the magic of the scenery, the lush green lawns directly bordering the grand Bogor Presidential Palace are home to hundreds of elegant, spotted Axis deer. Seeing these peaceful animals grazing freely against the backdrop of colonial-era architecture and monumental nature provided the perfect, serene contrast to the near-miss on the road.
