El Salvador
(2002/2003)
Shadows, Survival, and Safe Havens
San Salvador
The capital
The capital
Catedral Nuevo
Palacio Nacional
Entering the Danger Zone: The Brutal Reality of El Salvador
El Salvador—a country often defined by criminals and outlaws. You cannot afford to underestimate this tiny corridor in Central America. Back in 2002 and 2003, violence was written in capital letters here. You could feel the underlying tension and a harsh hostility toward foreigners the moment you stepped onto the local buses. It wasn’t uncommon for locals to aggressively draw a hand straight across their throat, cold-bloodedly signaling one thing: "You are a dead man!" [1]
Because of this constant, heavy atmosphere, I really did not enjoy my time in El Salvador. Yet, even in a place this dark, travel has a way of introducing you to incredible, deeply valuable people who welcome you with open arms and provide a sense of security that you simply cannot find on your own.
El Salvador—a country often defined by criminals and outlaws. You cannot afford to underestimate this tiny corridor in Central America. Back in 2002 and 2003, violence was written in capital letters here. You could feel the underlying tension and a harsh hostility toward foreigners the moment you stepped onto the local buses. It wasn’t uncommon for locals to aggressively draw a hand straight across their throat, cold-bloodedly signaling one thing: "You are a dead man!" [1]
Because of this constant, heavy atmosphere, I really did not enjoy my time in El Salvador. Yet, even in a place this dark, travel has a way of introducing you to incredible, deeply valuable people who welcome you with open arms and provide a sense of security that you simply cannot find on your own.
Edgar: My Local Guide and Unofficial Bodyguard
That saving grace came in the form of Edgar, who was working at the front desk of my hotel. We hit it off instantly. Since we got along so well, it was only a matter of time before he asked if I wanted to join him and his friend to explore the city and experience the local nightlife.
Of course, I didn't say no. There is absolutely nothing better than navigating a high-risk city with your own personal, street-smart bodyguards who know exactly how the world works there and how to handle any situation. But what I was about to experience on that night out completely took my breath away...
The Unspoken Bond: Cracking the Macho Myth
From the very beginning, I had this lingering feeling that something was different about these two guys. In Latin America, the deeply ingrained macho culture usually means that any encounter with local men comes with a heavy dose of intense flirting and romantic advances. But Edgar and his friend completely left me alone. They were respectful, gentle, and asked for absolutely nothing in return. Why?
The secret was revealed soon enough, but the moment I heard the truth, it completely took my breath away. How could this be possible? Especially here, in an incredibly conservative country where the man dominates as an aggressive macho and the woman is expected to stand beneath him. El Salvador’s society expects its men to be ruthless, unpredictable, and tough-as-nails characters you don't dare to mess with. In a world defined by that rigid alpha-male checklist, what happens when you are not hetero?
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you read that correctly: my friends were a gay couple. And in a country exactly like this. El Salvador.
That saving grace came in the form of Edgar, who was working at the front desk of my hotel. We hit it off instantly. Since we got along so well, it was only a matter of time before he asked if I wanted to join him and his friend to explore the city and experience the local nightlife.
Of course, I didn't say no. There is absolutely nothing better than navigating a high-risk city with your own personal, street-smart bodyguards who know exactly how the world works there and how to handle any situation. But what I was about to experience on that night out completely took my breath away...
The Unspoken Bond: Cracking the Macho Myth
From the very beginning, I had this lingering feeling that something was different about these two guys. In Latin America, the deeply ingrained macho culture usually means that any encounter with local men comes with a heavy dose of intense flirting and romantic advances. But Edgar and his friend completely left me alone. They were respectful, gentle, and asked for absolutely nothing in return. Why?
The secret was revealed soon enough, but the moment I heard the truth, it completely took my breath away. How could this be possible? Especially here, in an incredibly conservative country where the man dominates as an aggressive macho and the woman is expected to stand beneath him. El Salvador’s society expects its men to be ruthless, unpredictable, and tough-as-nails characters you don't dare to mess with. In a world defined by that rigid alpha-male checklist, what happens when you are not hetero?
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you read that correctly: my friends were a gay couple. And in a country exactly like this. El Salvador.
The Sanctuary in the Shadows: A Dangerous Double Life
Our night out led us to a hidden underground club, and stepping through the doors was a surreal shock to my senses. It was a venue packed to the brim with younger men, and I quickly realized I was the only woman in the entire place. I just stood there, completely amazed. How could these guys seem so relaxed while navigating such a high-stakes double life?
Because make no mistake, they were living two entirely separate existences. There was the official life—the perfect, traditional mask manufactured to satisfy their families, coworkers, and neighborhood expectations. And then there was this hidden life, a secret sanctuary where they could finally satisfy their true desires and love for other men. But this freedom came with a terrifying price tag. They had to live every single second with the constant, paralyzing danger that their cover might blow. In a society ruled by extreme violence and religious conservatism back then, exposure didn't just mean social shame—it meant the very real threat of being hunted down and lynched by their own people. Standing in that crowded room, I didn't just see a party; I saw a room full of immense bravery, tragic choices, and the brutal cost of simply wanting to be yourself.
Our night out led us to a hidden underground club, and stepping through the doors was a surreal shock to my senses. It was a venue packed to the brim with younger men, and I quickly realized I was the only woman in the entire place. I just stood there, completely amazed. How could these guys seem so relaxed while navigating such a high-stakes double life?
Because make no mistake, they were living two entirely separate existences. There was the official life—the perfect, traditional mask manufactured to satisfy their families, coworkers, and neighborhood expectations. And then there was this hidden life, a secret sanctuary where they could finally satisfy their true desires and love for other men. But this freedom came with a terrifying price tag. They had to live every single second with the constant, paralyzing danger that their cover might blow. In a society ruled by extreme violence and religious conservatism back then, exposure didn't just mean social shame—it meant the very real threat of being hunted down and lynched by their own people. Standing in that crowded room, I didn't just see a party; I saw a room full of immense bravery, tragic choices, and the brutal cost of simply wanting to be yourself.
Shadows, Strippers, and the Mara Threat: My Final Night in El Salvador
I just stood there in absolute disbelief. Edgar noticed the look on my face, grinned, and asked if I wanted to check out another venue across the street. He told me this one was a bit more sophisticated, catering to a slightly older crowd. We crossed the dark asphalt, entered the next building, and stepped inside.
As my eyes adjusted to the dim, smoky lighting, the shift in atmosphere was instant. This was definitely an older, distinguished clientele—and honestly, it was a crowd that caught my eye.
And then, right in the center of the room, I spotted him: a male stripper with an absolutely flawless, sculpted physique. He locked eyes with me immediately. Realizing I was once again the only woman in the entire place, he confidently threaded his way through the dense crowd of men and made his move straight toward me. It clicked in my mind instantly: this guy was entirely hetero, but he was stripping for a room full of men strictly for the money. He pressed his sweaty, hyper-trained body right against mine. Man, his physique was unreal. My legs felt a bit weak, but I fully soaked in the attention and loved his powerful masculine charisma.
The patrons in this bar were no joke either—heavy, tough-looking characters who carried themselves with a serious edge, yet they loved men and fiercely hid their true identities from the outside world.
I just stood there in absolute disbelief. Edgar noticed the look on my face, grinned, and asked if I wanted to check out another venue across the street. He told me this one was a bit more sophisticated, catering to a slightly older crowd. We crossed the dark asphalt, entered the next building, and stepped inside.
As my eyes adjusted to the dim, smoky lighting, the shift in atmosphere was instant. This was definitely an older, distinguished clientele—and honestly, it was a crowd that caught my eye.
And then, right in the center of the room, I spotted him: a male stripper with an absolutely flawless, sculpted physique. He locked eyes with me immediately. Realizing I was once again the only woman in the entire place, he confidently threaded his way through the dense crowd of men and made his move straight toward me. It clicked in my mind instantly: this guy was entirely hetero, but he was stripping for a room full of men strictly for the money. He pressed his sweaty, hyper-trained body right against mine. Man, his physique was unreal. My legs felt a bit weak, but I fully soaked in the attention and loved his powerful masculine charisma.
The patrons in this bar were no joke either—heavy, tough-looking characters who carried themselves with a serious edge, yet they loved men and fiercely hid their true identities from the outside world.
Dangerous Desires: Escaping the Macho Warzone of El Salvador
Living as a gay man in Latin America is incredibly challenging, but living with that secret in El Salvador is a different level of terror. This is a territory ruled by some of the most ruthless and dangerous gangs on planet Earth—most notably the Mara Salvatrucha, known worldwide as MS-13. I don’t even want to imagine what would happen if a gang member uncovered their secret, or if their conservative families found out the truth. The price for exposure would be fatal.
Years later, Edgar made the ultimate choice: he packed his bags, left his homeland behind, and emigrated to Italy. And honestly? It was the best thing he could have ever done for his survival and his freedom.
Living as a gay man in Latin America is incredibly challenging, but living with that secret in El Salvador is a different level of terror. This is a territory ruled by some of the most ruthless and dangerous gangs on planet Earth—most notably the Mara Salvatrucha, known worldwide as MS-13. I don’t even want to imagine what would happen if a gang member uncovered their secret, or if their conservative families found out the truth. The price for exposure would be fatal.
Years later, Edgar made the ultimate choice: he packed his bags, left his homeland behind, and emigrated to Italy. And honestly? It was the best thing he could have ever done for his survival and his freedom.
El Salvador
(2022)
View from the plane: approach to San Salvador
Stuck at the Terminal: The Unexpected Suite
In 2022, my journey back to Central America took an unexpected detour. I was actually on my way to Nicaragua, flying from Germany via Mexico, when a sudden paperwork hurdle brought everything to a halt: I needed a new COVID-19 test to cross the next border. Just like that, I found myself stranded once again in El Salvador.
I checked into a hotel located right next to the busy Tica Bus terminal. Because the place was packed to the brim and all standard rooms were completely booked, I ended up getting upgraded to a full suite. It was a strange stroke of luxury in the middle of a stressful transit delay, but the real value of that unexpected stop wasn't the room—it was the people waiting inside those walls.
Stacey and the "Black Heritage" Connection
It was at this terminal hotel that I crossed paths with Stacey, a traveler from the United States. We hit it off immediately. Little did I know that this chance encounter during a border delay would lead to a string of wild adventures together later on in Nicaragua. Our friendship grew so strong that she traveled all the way to visit me twice in Germany, and she even became the proud owner of one of my custom-painted car hoods, titled "Black Heritage," which now proudly hangs on display in Houston, Texas.
In 2022, my journey back to Central America took an unexpected detour. I was actually on my way to Nicaragua, flying from Germany via Mexico, when a sudden paperwork hurdle brought everything to a halt: I needed a new COVID-19 test to cross the next border. Just like that, I found myself stranded once again in El Salvador.
I checked into a hotel located right next to the busy Tica Bus terminal. Because the place was packed to the brim and all standard rooms were completely booked, I ended up getting upgraded to a full suite. It was a strange stroke of luxury in the middle of a stressful transit delay, but the real value of that unexpected stop wasn't the room—it was the people waiting inside those walls.
Stacey and the "Black Heritage" Connection
It was at this terminal hotel that I crossed paths with Stacey, a traveler from the United States. We hit it off immediately. Little did I know that this chance encounter during a border delay would lead to a string of wild adventures together later on in Nicaragua. Our friendship grew so strong that she traveled all the way to visit me twice in Germany, and she even became the proud owner of one of my custom-painted car hoods, titled "Black Heritage," which now proudly hangs on display in Houston, Texas.
Shadows of Exile: Meeting Jilmer
But the hotel was also filled with much heavier realities. It was a temporary sanctuary for several Nicas—citizens from neighboring Nicaragua living in forced exile due to the severe political oppression in their homeland. Among them, I met a man named Jilmer Rizzo.
Listening to him and reading the heartbreaking accounts he shares on his Facebook page about his life in exile was a deeply grounding experience. He writes with a beautiful, devastating honesty about the crushing weight of uncertainty, the pain of being forcefully separated from his family with absolutely no contact, the blatant injustice of the regime, and the hollow feeling of having your own homeland stolen from you. Sitting in that terminal hotel, looking at the contrast between my accidental luxury suite and the stolen futures of these refugees, was a powerful reminder of how fragile freedom truly is.
But the hotel was also filled with much heavier realities. It was a temporary sanctuary for several Nicas—citizens from neighboring Nicaragua living in forced exile due to the severe political oppression in their homeland. Among them, I met a man named Jilmer Rizzo.
Listening to him and reading the heartbreaking accounts he shares on his Facebook page about his life in exile was a deeply grounding experience. He writes with a beautiful, devastating honesty about the crushing weight of uncertainty, the pain of being forcefully separated from his family with absolutely no contact, the blatant injustice of the regime, and the hollow feeling of having your own homeland stolen from you. Sitting in that terminal hotel, looking at the contrast between my accidental luxury suite and the stolen futures of these refugees, was a powerful reminder of how fragile freedom truly is.
The Nicaraguan Crisis: Why Thousands Fled in 2022
To understand the heartbreaking reality of refugees like Jilmer Rizzo, it helps to look at the political collapse that gripped Nicaragua during this exact timeframe:
To understand the heartbreaking reality of refugees like Jilmer Rizzo, it helps to look at the political collapse that gripped Nicaragua during this exact timeframe:
- The Dictatorship: Since 2018, President Daniel Ortega and his wife, Vice President Rosario Murillo, transformed Nicaragua into a brutal police state, systematically crushing all forms of political dissent and freedom of speech.
- The 2021 Election Sham: Ahead of the November 2021 presidential elections, the regime arrested and jailed nearly 40 opposition figures, including seven presidential candidates, journalists, and student leaders, cementing total control over the country
- Mass Exile and Censorship: By 2022, the government had forcefully shut down over 3,000 non-governmental organizations (NGOs), independent news outlets, and charities. Anyone voicing criticism faced immediate arrest, forcing hundreds of thousands of doctors, students, and professionals to flee across the borders.
- Stripped of Citizenship: In an unprecedented move of political warfare, the regime began stripping exiled dissidents, journalists, and activists of their Nicaraguan nationality, declaring them "traitors to the homeland" and leaving them legally stateless abroad.
- The Human Toll: The border crossings into El Salvador and Costa Rica became vital lifelines. Families were brutally torn apart, with refugees facing absolute uncertainty, frozen bank accounts, and the constant fear of retaliation against loved ones left behind.
El Tobogán de Colores
El Boquerón, San Salvador
Neon Slopes and High Speeds: The Giant Rainbow Track of El Boquerón
After escaping the hotel suite at the bus terminal, Stacey and I wasted no time diving straight into our very first adventure together. We headed just 20 minutes outside the capital, winding up the slopes of the El Boquerón volcano, to track down one of El Salvador's most viral and colorful attractions: the famous Rainbow Slide.
The slide is tucked right inside a massive outdoor restaurant called the Picnic Steak House. It is a surreal setup—you are surrounded by oversized animal decorations and dense greenery, with a towering launch platform that sits about 12 meters high.
Look at this perspective I captured from the top! The track is a brilliant, neon-colored wave of interlocking hexagonal patterns stretching all the way down the hillside. Staring down that massive slope with the vast grid of San Salvador city framing the distant horizon is a serious rush.
To ride it, you grab a giant inflatable tube, hop inside, and let the staff push you into the abyss. It is a fast, wind-in-your-face, 30-second burst of pure adrenaline and childhood fun. Dropping down that multi-colored track at high speed while screaming and laughing alongside Stacey was the absolute perfect way to shake off our border-crossing stress. It was wild, loud, and proved instantly that we were going to be an unstoppable travel duo on the road to Nicaragua
After escaping the hotel suite at the bus terminal, Stacey and I wasted no time diving straight into our very first adventure together. We headed just 20 minutes outside the capital, winding up the slopes of the El Boquerón volcano, to track down one of El Salvador's most viral and colorful attractions: the famous Rainbow Slide.
The slide is tucked right inside a massive outdoor restaurant called the Picnic Steak House. It is a surreal setup—you are surrounded by oversized animal decorations and dense greenery, with a towering launch platform that sits about 12 meters high.
Look at this perspective I captured from the top! The track is a brilliant, neon-colored wave of interlocking hexagonal patterns stretching all the way down the hillside. Staring down that massive slope with the vast grid of San Salvador city framing the distant horizon is a serious rush.
To ride it, you grab a giant inflatable tube, hop inside, and let the staff push you into the abyss. It is a fast, wind-in-your-face, 30-second burst of pure adrenaline and childhood fun. Dropping down that multi-colored track at high speed while screaming and laughing alongside Stacey was the absolute perfect way to shake off our border-crossing stress. It was wild, loud, and proved instantly that we were going to be an unstoppable travel duo on the road to Nicaragua
Lago de Coatepeque
Navigating the Volcanoes: Our Bus Ride to Lago de Coatepeque
For our next adventure in El Salvador, Stacey and I decided to ditch all comfort and travel like true locals. We hopped onto one of the country's famous, chaotic public buses to track down one of the most stunning natural wonders in Central America: Lago de Coatepeque.
The name is a complete tongue-twister, but the view is pure poetry. This massive, deep-blue body of water is actually a volcanic crater lake, formed thousands of years ago inside a giant caldera next to the Santa Ana volcano.
The "Qute" Challenge: A Squeeze to the Shoreline
As if the crowded public bus ride wasn’t enough of a local experience, reaching the water’s edge required one final, hilarious transport challenge. After the bus dropped us off, we had to hail a local taxi to take us all the way down into the volcanic crater to the docks.
The vehicle that pulled up was a Bajaj Qute—a tiny, Indian-built four-wheeled micro-car.
Now, you have to understand one crucial detail: Stacey is a tall, stately American woman, and she was carrying a packed backpack. Watching her try to squeeze her long legs and gear into this miniature plastic capsule was absolute comedy. The car was so incredibly small it felt like a toy, hilariously decorated with Transformers badges and angel stickers on the blue frame.
We were completely packed inside like sardines, laughing the entire way down the steep, winding road as the tiny engine roared under the weight. It was the ultimate, unvarnished travel moment—proving once again that the journey is always half the fun!
For our next adventure in El Salvador, Stacey and I decided to ditch all comfort and travel like true locals. We hopped onto one of the country's famous, chaotic public buses to track down one of the most stunning natural wonders in Central America: Lago de Coatepeque.
The name is a complete tongue-twister, but the view is pure poetry. This massive, deep-blue body of water is actually a volcanic crater lake, formed thousands of years ago inside a giant caldera next to the Santa Ana volcano.
The "Qute" Challenge: A Squeeze to the Shoreline
As if the crowded public bus ride wasn’t enough of a local experience, reaching the water’s edge required one final, hilarious transport challenge. After the bus dropped us off, we had to hail a local taxi to take us all the way down into the volcanic crater to the docks.
The vehicle that pulled up was a Bajaj Qute—a tiny, Indian-built four-wheeled micro-car.
Now, you have to understand one crucial detail: Stacey is a tall, stately American woman, and she was carrying a packed backpack. Watching her try to squeeze her long legs and gear into this miniature plastic capsule was absolute comedy. The car was so incredibly small it felt like a toy, hilariously decorated with Transformers badges and angel stickers on the blue frame.
We were completely packed inside like sardines, laughing the entire way down the steep, winding road as the tiny engine roared under the weight. It was the ultimate, unvarnished travel moment—proving once again that the journey is always half the fun!
Stilts and Volcanic Swells: Cruising the Blue Waters of Coatepeque
Look at this shot I took right from the water! We rented a local motorboat to cruise along the shoreline, watching the beautiful wooden eco-lodges, private villas, and rustic restaurants built entirely on stilts over the water. The contrast of the bright red roofs, the white boat wake cutting through the deep blue, and the steep, forested volcanic mountains framing the horizon is spectacular.
Getting there on those bumpy, music-blasting local buses and then drifting out onto this peaceful crater lake was the absolute perfect mix of rugged backpacking and raw, natural beauty. It was an incredible day of exploration before our journey pushed us even closer to the border of Nicaragua.
Look at this shot I took right from the water! We rented a local motorboat to cruise along the shoreline, watching the beautiful wooden eco-lodges, private villas, and rustic restaurants built entirely on stilts over the water. The contrast of the bright red roofs, the white boat wake cutting through the deep blue, and the steep, forested volcanic mountains framing the horizon is spectacular.
Getting there on those bumpy, music-blasting local buses and then drifting out onto this peaceful crater lake was the absolute perfect mix of rugged backpacking and raw, natural beauty. It was an incredible day of exploration before our journey pushed us even closer to the border of Nicaragua.
Quick Facts: Lago de Coatepeque:
- The Sacred Water: The name comes from the indigenous Nahuatl language, meaning "At the Hill of the Snake."
- The Color-Shifting Phenomenon: Every few years, due to specific volcanic minerals and algae blooms, the entire lake magically changes its color from deep sapphire blue to a brilliant, glowing turquoise teal.
- Massive Scale: The lake sits at an altitude of 745 meters and reaches incredible depths of around 115 meters, making it one of the largest and cleanest lakes in the country.
El Tunco
Pacific Thrills: Playing in the Waves of El Tunco
Before I finally packed my gear to cross the border into Nicaragua, Stacey and I had one last, unforgettable bucket-list stop along El Salvador’s coastline: the legendary Playa El Tunco.
This vibrant beach town is famously known as the ultimate bohemian surf hub of Central America, named after a massive, pig-shaped rock formation sitting right offshore in the ocean. El Tunco is world-renowned for its powerful, consistent surf breaks, dramatic black volcanic sand, and a wild, energetic ocean breeze.
Before I finally packed my gear to cross the border into Nicaragua, Stacey and I had one last, unforgettable bucket-list stop along El Salvador’s coastline: the legendary Playa El Tunco.
This vibrant beach town is famously known as the ultimate bohemian surf hub of Central America, named after a massive, pig-shaped rock formation sitting right offshore in the ocean. El Tunco is world-renowned for its powerful, consistent surf breaks, dramatic black volcanic sand, and a wild, energetic ocean breeze.
A Lost Silhouette: The Historic Stone of El Tunco
This snapshot from our beach day is more than just a beautiful travel memory—it has become a rare historical document of El Salvador's changing coastline.
Look closely at the left side of the massive rock formation rising out of the Pacific. You can clearly see the distinct, curved stone peak pointing toward the sky. This is the original, legendary silhouette that gave Playa El Tunco its name, mimicking the legs and tail of an upside-down pig.
But nature's power is unforgiving. Just a short time after Stacey and I played in these very waves, a severe ocean storm battered the coast, and this iconic left portion of the rock broke off entirely and collapsed into the deep sea. My photo from 2022 captures the island in its full, historic glory—a view that future generations of travelers will unfortunately never be able to see with their own eyes again. It's a powerful reminder of how fast the wild elements can reshape the landscapes we love.
This snapshot from our beach day is more than just a beautiful travel memory—it has become a rare historical document of El Salvador's changing coastline.
Look closely at the left side of the massive rock formation rising out of the Pacific. You can clearly see the distinct, curved stone peak pointing toward the sky. This is the original, legendary silhouette that gave Playa El Tunco its name, mimicking the legs and tail of an upside-down pig.
But nature's power is unforgiving. Just a short time after Stacey and I played in these very waves, a severe ocean storm battered the coast, and this iconic left portion of the rock broke off entirely and collapsed into the deep sea. My photo from 2022 captures the island in its full, historic glory—a view that future generations of travelers will unfortunately never be able to see with their own eyes again. It's a powerful reminder of how fast the wild elements can reshape the landscapes we love.
Black Sands and Heavy Breaks: Shaking Off the Dust in El Tunco
While the professional surfers were out in the deep waters catching the massive swells, Stacey and I decided to dive right into the action ourselves. We spent nearly two full hours playing like kids in the cold, crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean. Fighting the strong undercurrents, getting knocked over by the whitewash, and laughing our heads off as the heavy surf blasted over us was a total adrenaline rush. It was loud, chaotic, and completely refreshing—the absolute perfect, high-energy farewell to our wild El Salvador chapter before heading south toward the border.
While the professional surfers were out in the deep waters catching the massive swells, Stacey and I decided to dive right into the action ourselves. We spent nearly two full hours playing like kids in the cold, crashing waves of the Pacific Ocean. Fighting the strong undercurrents, getting knocked over by the whitewash, and laughing our heads off as the heavy surf blasted over us was a total adrenaline rush. It was loud, chaotic, and completely refreshing—the absolute perfect, high-energy farewell to our wild El Salvador chapter before heading south toward the border.
