BRAZIL
(2002/2003/04)
Rio de Janeiro
Turbulence, XXL bags, and Rio's smallest car: The 2001 arrival
The year 2001 marked the start of my trips to Brazil. I flew to Rio de Janeiro with my friend Mo—and the flight was incredibly turbulent right from the get-go. But the real chaos only began once we finally had solid ground beneath our feet. A colleague of mine, who had lived in Rio for 18 years, had kindly made her apartment available to us. The problem: the place was currently rented out to a gay friend of her called Viktor who is the third generation of German living in Brazil. He was supposed to pick us up at the airport.
Turbulence, XXL bags, and Rio's smallest car: The 2001 arrival
The year 2001 marked the start of my trips to Brazil. I flew to Rio de Janeiro with my friend Mo—and the flight was incredibly turbulent right from the get-go. But the real chaos only began once we finally had solid ground beneath our feet. A colleague of mine, who had lived in Rio for 18 years, had kindly made her apartment available to us. The problem: the place was currently rented out to a gay friend of her called Viktor who is the third generation of German living in Brazil. He was supposed to pick us up at the airport.
Copacabana – the most famous beach in Rio de Janeiro
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So there we were at baggage claim—not just with our backpacks, but with four huge, bursting "Turkish bags" (those indestructible giant plastic sacks) packed full of donations for a local orphanage. Naturally, we immediately got into endless arguments with customs officials about what we intended to do with all that stuff. Our saving grace? The language barrier. I fired off my best Spanish, the officers replied in Portuguese, and neither side understood a word—until, exasperated, they gave up and waved us through. Outside, Viktor picking us up was waiting with his car. The vehicle was a total joke and far too small. We squeezed ourselves, our backpacks, and those four XXL donation bags into the car so tightly that we couldn't see a thing of Rio. Welcome to Brazil!
Rio’s Beach Trio: From Concrete Catwalk to Hidden Natural Paradise
Copacabana: This world-famous, four-kilometer-long crescent-shaped beach was named after a Bolivian patron saint. Its signature feature is the promenade’s black-and-white wavy mosaic paving, the stones of which originally arrived in Brazil as ballast on old Portuguese ships.
Praia da Barra da Tijuca: Stretching an impressive 18 kilometers, this is by far Rio's largest beach. Located far to the west, it is frequented almost exclusively by locals and—due to the fierce currents of the open Atlantic—attracts primarily surfers and kitesurfers.
Prainha: A tiny, hidden gem just 150 meters long, hemmed in by steep granite cliffs and dense tropical rainforest. Since the bay is a protected area, there are no high-rises here—but there are the cleanest barrel waves in the entire metropolis.
Praia de Grumari: This 2.5-kilometer-long beach is a strictly protected nature area. There are no hotels or high-rises here. The highlights off the coast are the rugged volcanic islands of Ilha das Palmas and Ilha das Peças; they serve as protected breeding grounds for vast seabird colonies and as underwater nurseries for sea turtles and dolphins.
Center: View of Rio, Right: View of the islands off Grumari Beach
Center: View of Rio, Right: View of the islands off Grumari Beach
Canal de Marapendi
The Miami of Rio: High-rises and mangroves along the Canal de Marapendi
In 2003, I sat in the passenger seat beside my colleague Irmy, who was expertly driving us past the modern high-rises of the Canal de Marapendi toward the pristine western beaches mentioned above.
The Miami of Rio: High-rises and mangroves along the Canal de Marapendi
In 2003, I sat in the passenger seat beside my colleague Irmy, who was expertly driving us past the modern high-rises of the Canal de Marapendi toward the pristine western beaches mentioned above.
Canal de Marapendi: This 10-kilometer-long waterway, lined with dense mangroves, separates the mainland from the coastal peninsula of Barra da Tijuca. Modern, Miami-style luxury high-rises are springing up along the canal. Remarkably, despite the dense cluster of skyscrapers, countless wild caimans and tropical waterbirds still inhabit the canal's protected waters, living right amidst the bustle of the big city.
Rio Antigo
In 2003, my colleague Irmy—who knew every corner of the city after 18 years in Rio—did a sightseeing tour with me. First she dragged me to this very historic center: Rio Antigo.
I witnessed a pretty brilliant tradition: when work winds down in the city center on December 30th, employees toss tons of paper scraps and shreds out of the skyscraper office windows. Afterward, the streets look like the aftermath of a snowstorm—a magnificent chaos, a way to symbolically discard the old year.
In 2003, my colleague Irmy—who knew every corner of the city after 18 years in Rio—did a sightseeing tour with me. First she dragged me to this very historic center: Rio Antigo.
I witnessed a pretty brilliant tradition: when work winds down in the city center on December 30th, employees toss tons of paper scraps and shreds out of the skyscraper office windows. Afterward, the streets look like the aftermath of a snowstorm—a magnificent chaos, a way to symbolically discard the old year.
Right next to the Arco do Teles, the labyrinth of colonial alleyways spits you out directly onto the expansive Praça XV de Novembro, which stretches all the way to the harbor basin. We entered the old city and found a lot of old history.
Facts about Rio Antiguo:
Arco do Teles: This iconic 18th-century arch at Praça XV is the last remaining trace of the Teles de Menezes family residence. Stepping through the stone gateway leads directly into the narrow, cobblestone alley of Travessa do Comércio. What makes this spot special is that the colonial houses with their colorful facades survived the great, devastating fire of 1790. Back in 2003, one could still sense the area's rugged, old-world charm—a far cry from the high-rise Rio typical of the modern city.
Palácio Tiradentes (Parliament Building)
Construction period & style: A monumental, eclectic building heavily inspired by the Grand Palais in Paris; inaugurated on May 6, 1926.
Antigo Edifício do Jornal do Brasil (The Old Newspaper Building)
Construction & Style: Designed by architect Adolfo Morales de Los Rios in a magnificent Neo-Baroque style featuring subtle Art Nouveau elements; completed in 1913.
Historical Function: For decades, this striking building on Avenida Rio Branco served as the headquarters, editorial offices, and printing plant for the *Jornal do Brasil*, one of the country's most influential newspapers.
Visual Highlight: An elaborately decorated clock tower topped by a massive dome in the French Eclectic style. In 2002—as seen in my photo—the ground floor of this historic building housed the "Planeta da Sorte" lottery outlet.
Facts about Rio Antiguo:
Arco do Teles: This iconic 18th-century arch at Praça XV is the last remaining trace of the Teles de Menezes family residence. Stepping through the stone gateway leads directly into the narrow, cobblestone alley of Travessa do Comércio. What makes this spot special is that the colonial houses with their colorful facades survived the great, devastating fire of 1790. Back in 2003, one could still sense the area's rugged, old-world charm—a far cry from the high-rise Rio typical of the modern city.
Palácio Tiradentes (Parliament Building)
Construction period & style: A monumental, eclectic building heavily inspired by the Grand Palais in Paris; inaugurated on May 6, 1926.
Antigo Edifício do Jornal do Brasil (The Old Newspaper Building)
Construction & Style: Designed by architect Adolfo Morales de Los Rios in a magnificent Neo-Baroque style featuring subtle Art Nouveau elements; completed in 1913.
Historical Function: For decades, this striking building on Avenida Rio Branco served as the headquarters, editorial offices, and printing plant for the *Jornal do Brasil*, one of the country's most influential newspapers.
Visual Highlight: An elaborately decorated clock tower topped by a massive dome in the French Eclectic style. In 2002—as seen in my photo—the ground floor of this historic building housed the "Planeta da Sorte" lottery outlet.
Nightlife in Rio de Janeiro
Tinsel in high summer and hunky guys: Rio's ladies' clubs
When evening finally fell in Rio in December 2003, we put cultural history aside. Irmy and I plunged straight into the nightlife. It was a truly surreal sight for a Brazilian December: the streets were decked out with bold, glittering Christmas decorations. With temperatures topping 30 degrees Celsius in the shade, artificial Santas and sparkling tinsel glowed from the palm trees—a wonderfully kitschy contrast to the tropical summer vibe.
Tinsel in high summer and hunky guys: Rio's ladies' clubs
When evening finally fell in Rio in December 2003, we put cultural history aside. Irmy and I plunged straight into the nightlife. It was a truly surreal sight for a Brazilian December: the streets were decked out with bold, glittering Christmas decorations. With temperatures topping 30 degrees Celsius in the shade, artificial Santas and sparkling tinsel glowed from the palm trees—a wonderfully kitschy contrast to the tropical summer vibe.
But the real highlight of the evening awaited us at the Ladies Club. We thought, "Why not?" and decided on the spur of the moment to treat ourselves to a genuine life strip show. What a blast! While strings of lights twinkled outside, things were really heating up inside with the hunky Brazilian dancers. It was an absolutely brilliant, chaotic night far off the beaten tourist track—and we couldn't stop laughing. That’s the proper way to celebrate the end of the year in Rio!
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Rio SCENARIUM
Antiques and 100 Varieties of Cachaça: My Party Meltdown in Lapa Our next destination was the legendary Rio Scenarium in the Lapa party district. It’s not your average pub, but a massive, three-story club packed with antiques, old dolls, clocks, and quirky props. You’re literally partying in the middle of a living museum. |
And if you’re still thirsty afterwards, do as we did and simply wander across the street. Directly opposite the Scenarium lies Cachaçaria Mangue Seco—arguably Rio’s best spot for traditional sugarcane spirit. Here, you can sample from over 100 different varieties of cachaça while Bossa Nova plays in the background and couples sweep across the dance floor.
New Year's Eve at Copacabana
is the biggest and craziest beach fireworks
display on the entire planet!
If you want to experience a New Year's Eve celebration that goes absolutely wild at least once in your life, you have to go to Copacabana. At the turn of the year from 2003 to 2004, I stood in the middle of a gigantic crowd of people dressed in white on the beach. So, don't forget to get dressed in WHITE! My analog photos capture the sheer chaos of lights. Fireworks are launched from huge rafts out in the open Atlantic, creating a dazzling reflection on the waves.
The absolute highlight of my photos is the legendary fireworks waterfall, which cascaded 120 meters down the entire façade of the Méridien skyscraper hotel with a deafening roar—a burning curtain of pure gold. These blazing pyrotechnic cascades could also be admired at the Ipanema club. When looking up from the beach toward the mountains, the scene was almost surreal: the brilliantly white-illuminated statue of Jesus atop Corcovado loomed majestically over the metropolis’s colorful chaos of explosions. It was an absolutely mind-blowing sight that looks incredibly crisp on film.
The floating pyrotechnic spectacle: To ensure Copacabana isn't reduced to ashes, pyrotechnicians don't launch the tons of fireworks from the beach, but rather from massive floating offshore rafts (*balsas*) directly on the Atlantic. This creates a perfect reflection in the water and paints a continuous sea of light across the sky for about 15 to 20 minutes.
The legendary waterfall at the Hotel Méridien: My photo of the Hotel Méridien—that striking, 39-story skyscraper right on the Leme stretch of the beach—captures the absolute crown jewel (now a piece of history) of Rio’s New Year’s Eve celebrations. Traditionally, at the stroke of midnight, the hotel would unleash a gigantic, 120-meter-long "waterfall of fire" (*Cascata de Fogo*) that cascaded from the roof all the way down the building's façade. It was so spectacular that the crowds on the beach would go wild. (A key fact for my readers today: this tradition was completely discontinued a few years later for safety reasons—so I’ve got a real rarity on my hands!)
The illuminated Jesus (Corcovado): The photo featuring the Christ statue (Christ the Redeemer) in the background is absolutely spectacular. On New Year's Eve, the monumental figure of Jesus atop the 710-meter-high Corcovado Mountain is bathed in brilliant white light by massive floodlights. When fireworks explode over the beaches below, the image makes it appear as though the glowing Christ is hovering and watching over the city's pyrotechnic chaos.
The waterfall at the Ipanema club: Exclusive clubs in the neighboring district of Ipanema also pulled out all the stops, igniting their own pyrotechnic waterfalls on their facades or pool areas to offer high-society guests an exclusive private show away from the dense crowds on the beach.
Legend of New Year's Eve
The New Year is also celebrated as the festival of Yemanjá (or Iemanjá), a sea goddess (daughter of the sky god Obatala and the earth goddess Odudua) who gave birth to 15 children. To believers, she is the "Mother of All." Tradition holds that one should dress in white on New Year's and carry offerings—such as flower petals, champagne, perfume, and talcum powder—down to the sea to cast them into the water. If the offerings wash back to shore with the surf, Yemanjá is displeased; if they drift out to the open sea, it is a good omen for the followers of Macumba and Umbanda. During this ritual, one may make three wishes, casting a flower into the sea for each one.
- African legend -
The New Year is also celebrated as the festival of Yemanjá (or Iemanjá), a sea goddess (daughter of the sky god Obatala and the earth goddess Odudua) who gave birth to 15 children. To believers, she is the "Mother of All." Tradition holds that one should dress in white on New Year's and carry offerings—such as flower petals, champagne, perfume, and talcum powder—down to the sea to cast them into the water. If the offerings wash back to shore with the surf, Yemanjá is displeased; if they drift out to the open sea, it is a good omen for the followers of Macumba and Umbanda. During this ritual, one may make three wishes, casting a flower into the sea for each one.
- African legend -
Floresta da Tijuca
Into the Wild: Floresta da Tijuca & Cascatinha Taunay
On our way to one of Rio’s absolute megastars—the iconic Cristo Redentor—my friend Mo and I decided to take the scenic route back in 2001. And man, what a ride it was. Before you even get to see the giant statue watching over the city, you have to conquer the climb through the breathtaking Floresta da Tijuca.
Calling it a "little woods" doesn't do it justice. It feels like a massive, breathing green labyrinth right in the middle of the urban jungle. As we started our ascent, the heavy air changed, filled with the sounds of hidden wildlife and the roar of rushing water.
Right there, tucked deep into the greenery, we stumbled upon the stunning Cascatinha Taunay. Standing in front of this 30-meter-high waterfall, feeling the cool mist blast against the Brazilian heat, you immediately realize that the journey up is just as magical as the destination itself. If you know me, you already know where this path is heading—straight into the heart of Rio's wild energy.
Corcovado & Christ the Redeemer
Reaching the Peak: Corcovado & The Giant
After sweating our way up through the humid Tijuca jungle, the trees finally opened up, and there he was. Standing right in front of the massive Cristo Redentor after that long climb is a moment that leaves you completely breathless—and not just because of the altitude!
The view from up there is unreal. You have the entire chaotic, beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro laying at your feet, framed by the deep blue ocean. Looking up at this concrete giant against the Brazilian sky, Mo and I just stood there, completely blown away by the sheer size of it.
To give you an idea of the massive scale of this monument, here are some mind-blowing facts I gathered about this iconic landmark:
Christ the Redeemer
Facts about the statue of Christ:
* 30 meters tall and weighing 1,145 tons
* the head alone weighs 30 tons
* weight per arm: 80 tons
* the span between the fingertips is 28 meters
* the mountain on which the statue stands is called Corcovado—meaning "the Hunchback" in the local indigenous language
* the mountain is 710 meters high
* the statue was designed by a Frenchman
* the statue was built in 1931
Reaching the Peak: Corcovado & The Giant
After sweating our way up through the humid Tijuca jungle, the trees finally opened up, and there he was. Standing right in front of the massive Cristo Redentor after that long climb is a moment that leaves you completely breathless—and not just because of the altitude!
The view from up there is unreal. You have the entire chaotic, beautiful city of Rio de Janeiro laying at your feet, framed by the deep blue ocean. Looking up at this concrete giant against the Brazilian sky, Mo and I just stood there, completely blown away by the sheer size of it.
To give you an idea of the massive scale of this monument, here are some mind-blowing facts I gathered about this iconic landmark:
Christ the Redeemer
Facts about the statue of Christ:
* 30 meters tall and weighing 1,145 tons
* the head alone weighs 30 tons
* weight per arm: 80 tons
* the span between the fingertips is 28 meters
* the mountain on which the statue stands is called Corcovado—meaning "the Hunchback" in the local indigenous language
* the mountain is 710 meters high
* the statue was designed by a Frenchman
* the statue was built in 1931
A 360° View of Rio's Soul
Once you stand at the base of the Cristo, you get a panoramic view that explains exactly why Rio is called the Cidade Maravilhosa (the Marvelous City). Mo and I just moved from one side of the platform to the other, trying to take it all in.
Looking out across the water, you can spot the massive Bridge to Niterói cutting through the bay. Turn a bit, and your eyes catch the glittering waters of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, perfectly framed by the city's neighborhoods.
And then, of course, there is the legendary crescent curve of Copacabana beach meeting the Atlantic ocean. But the most unmistakable silhouette in the entire skyline is the iconic Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) rising dramatically right out of the harbor—it looks just as striking in person as it does in the photos we took up there!
But as an artist, one view felt extra special: looking down at the Sambodromo, designed by the legendary Oscar Niemeyer. Knowing that this massive concrete runway is where the absolute explosion of Samba happens every year gave me goosebumps. It’s pure art, architecture, and rhythm colliding in one view.
Once you stand at the base of the Cristo, you get a panoramic view that explains exactly why Rio is called the Cidade Maravilhosa (the Marvelous City). Mo and I just moved from one side of the platform to the other, trying to take it all in.
Looking out across the water, you can spot the massive Bridge to Niterói cutting through the bay. Turn a bit, and your eyes catch the glittering waters of Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas, perfectly framed by the city's neighborhoods.
And then, of course, there is the legendary crescent curve of Copacabana beach meeting the Atlantic ocean. But the most unmistakable silhouette in the entire skyline is the iconic Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) rising dramatically right out of the harbor—it looks just as striking in person as it does in the photos we took up there!
But as an artist, one view felt extra special: looking down at the Sambodromo, designed by the legendary Oscar Niemeyer. Knowing that this massive concrete runway is where the absolute explosion of Samba happens every year gave me goosebumps. It’s pure art, architecture, and rhythm colliding in one view.
Bridge to Niterói Lagoa Rodrigo de Freitas Copacabana & Pão de Açúcar Sambodromo (@ Niemeyer)
And then, spinning around to face the city's north zone, your eyes land on another massive cathedral—this one built for the gods of football: the legendary Maracanã Stadium.
Even from way up high on Corcovado, the giant circular bowl stands out dramatically against the urban landscape. It is a place of absolute myth. Back when it was opened for the 1950 World Cup, it could hold an unbelievable 200,000 screaming fans. Looking down at it, you can almost hear the historic roars of the crowds and feel the pulsing energy that makes Brazilian soccer culture so famous worldwide.
Even from way up high on Corcovado, the giant circular bowl stands out dramatically against the urban landscape. It is a place of absolute myth. Back when it was opened for the 1950 World Cup, it could hold an unbelievable 200,000 screaming fans. Looking down at it, you can almost hear the historic roars of the crowds and feel the pulsing energy that makes Brazilian soccer culture so famous worldwide.
Santa Tereza
Next Stop: Santa Teresa & The Flying Tram
Leaving the main city behind, Mo and I decided to head into Santa Teresa, Rio's famous hilltop bohemian neighborhood. But instead of taking the easy route, we decided to walk up.
Let me tell you: it was horrendous.
Next Stop: Santa Teresa & The Flying Tram
Leaving the main city behind, Mo and I decided to head into Santa Teresa, Rio's famous hilltop bohemian neighborhood. But instead of taking the easy route, we decided to walk up.
Let me tell you: it was horrendous.
Walking up those steep, endless hills in the brutal heat was absolute torture. The air was thick, our legs were burning, and the climb felt never-ending. As we dragged ourselves up, the path took us right past the edges of the favelas. Standing right next to these massive, chaotic clusters of brick houses stacked precariously on the mountainside was intense. It gives you a stark, unfiltered look at Rio's raw reality, but doing it on foot made the whole experience incredibly heavy, exhausting, and a bit overwhelming.
Sweat, Tram Tracks & The Raw Reality of Santa Teresa
Even though we never actually rode the iconic Bonde de Santa Teresa—the famous bright yellow vintage tram—we watched it rattle past us on the tracks as we walked. It is a legendary piece of history, creaking and clanging its way up the slopes, with locals often hanging off the running boards just to catch a ride.
Facts: The Bonde de Santa Teresa
Even though we never actually rode the iconic Bonde de Santa Teresa—the famous bright yellow vintage tram—we watched it rattle past us on the tracks as we walked. It is a legendary piece of history, creaking and clanging its way up the slopes, with locals often hanging off the running boards just to catch a ride.
Facts: The Bonde de Santa Teresa
- Historic Legend: It is one of the oldest continuously operating tram lines in the world, having started its electric service all the way back in 1896.
- The Design: The cars (called Bondes) are famous for their bright yellow, open-air design without windows, which originally made it super easy for passengers to hop on and off.
- Flying Over the Arches: The absolute highlight of the route is crossing high above the city streets on top of the Arcos da Lapa, the historic Roman-style aqueduct built in 1732.
- A Lifeline for Locals: While tourists need to buy tickets today, the ride remains free of charge for registered neighborhood residents, seniors, and students, as it is their main connection up the steep hills.
- The Artist's Symbol: The iconic yellow tram is recognized worldwide as the official symbol and heartbeat of the bohemian arts district of Santa Teresa.
Chasing the Tracks: The Beautiful, Gritty Soul of Santa Teresa
As we pushed higher into the neighborhood, the architecture completely shifted, revealing the strange, captivating soul of Santa Teresa. The streets are lined with old, grand colonial mansions from the 19th century—some beautifully restored, others crumbling away with peeling paint and covered in vibrant, modern street art.
What struck me the most was the mind-blowing contrast of the people. Santa Teresa is a place where two completely different worlds collide on the exact same street. You have wealthy artists, expats, and rich locals living in beautiful historic villas, right next door to the poorest residents coming from the adjacent favelas. Everyone shares the same steep sidewalks, the same narrow alleys, and the same air. It’s a beautiful, gritty, and deeply complex mix of wealth and poverty that defines the true heart of Rio.
As we pushed higher into the neighborhood, the architecture completely shifted, revealing the strange, captivating soul of Santa Teresa. The streets are lined with old, grand colonial mansions from the 19th century—some beautifully restored, others crumbling away with peeling paint and covered in vibrant, modern street art.
What struck me the most was the mind-blowing contrast of the people. Santa Teresa is a place where two completely different worlds collide on the exact same street. You have wealthy artists, expats, and rich locals living in beautiful historic villas, right next door to the poorest residents coming from the adjacent favelas. Everyone shares the same steep sidewalks, the same narrow alleys, and the same air. It’s a beautiful, gritty, and deeply complex mix of wealth and poverty that defines the true heart of Rio.
Heading Down: The Arcos da Lapa & A Mosaic Masterpiece
After surviving the brutal hills of Santa Teresa, Mo and I made our way back down toward the pulsing heart of the city. On our way, we had a view on the Saint Sebastian Cathedral (prism dome in the center) and passed right underneath the massive Arcos da Lapa.
This thing is a beast of history. Built back in 1732 as a Roman-style aqueduct to bring fresh water to Rio, it now serves as the dramatic bridge where that yellow Santa Teresa tram rattles across high above the streets. Looking up at those giant, whitewashed concrete arches against the blue sky is spectacular—it is a towering landmark that connects Rio’s colonial past with its raw, urban present.
After surviving the brutal hills of Santa Teresa, Mo and I made our way back down toward the pulsing heart of the city. On our way, we had a view on the Saint Sebastian Cathedral (prism dome in the center) and passed right underneath the massive Arcos da Lapa.
This thing is a beast of history. Built back in 1732 as a Roman-style aqueduct to bring fresh water to Rio, it now serves as the dramatic bridge where that yellow Santa Teresa tram rattles across high above the streets. Looking up at those giant, whitewashed concrete arches against the blue sky is spectacular—it is a towering landmark that connects Rio’s colonial past with its raw, urban present.
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Escadaria Selarón (Selarón's Tiled Staircase) Border between the two neighborhoods of Lapa and Santa Teresa |
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But the absolute highlight of the day for me was just around the corner: the world-famous Escadaria Selarón (Selarón's Tiled Staircase).
As an artist, stepping onto these steps is like walking straight into a living, breathing explosion of creativity. This masterpiece was created by the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón as a "tribute to the Brazilian people." He spent decades transforming 215 ordinary steps into a vibrant, chaotic canvas using over 2,000 brightly colored tiles, ceramics, and mirrors collected from over 60 countries.
I couldn't stop clicking my camera. Every single step has its own personality. There are hand-painted tiles of pregnant women, pop culture icons, vintage comic-style vibes, and intricate patterns from all over the globe. Selarón famously said, "This crazy and unique dream will only end on the day of my death." Standing there, surrounded by that intense, passionate red, yellow, and green mosaic, you can literally feel the madness and the love he poured into every square inch. It’s pure, unfiltered passion—exactly the kind of art that speaks to my soul.
As an artist, stepping onto these steps is like walking straight into a living, breathing explosion of creativity. This masterpiece was created by the Chilean-born artist Jorge Selarón as a "tribute to the Brazilian people." He spent decades transforming 215 ordinary steps into a vibrant, chaotic canvas using over 2,000 brightly colored tiles, ceramics, and mirrors collected from over 60 countries.
I couldn't stop clicking my camera. Every single step has its own personality. There are hand-painted tiles of pregnant women, pop culture icons, vintage comic-style vibes, and intricate patterns from all over the globe. Selarón famously said, "This crazy and unique dream will only end on the day of my death." Standing there, surrounded by that intense, passionate red, yellow, and green mosaic, you can literally feel the madness and the love he poured into every square inch. It’s pure, unfiltered passion—exactly the kind of art that speaks to my soul.
Niterói
Crossing the Bay: A Day Trip to Niterói
For our next adventure, my friend Irmy and her girls and I decided to leave the bustling streets of Rio behind for a day and head across Guanabara Bay to the neighboring city of Niterói. The journey itself is an absolute visual treat. As you cross the water, the chaotic energy of Rio fades into the distance, and the city transforms into one of the most spectacular skylines you will ever witness. Looking back from the boat, you get a completely new perspective on Rio's famous giants.
Crossing the Bay: A Day Trip to Niterói
For our next adventure, my friend Irmy and her girls and I decided to leave the bustling streets of Rio behind for a day and head across Guanabara Bay to the neighboring city of Niterói. The journey itself is an absolute visual treat. As you cross the water, the chaotic energy of Rio fades into the distance, and the city transforms into one of the most spectacular skylines you will ever witness. Looking back from the boat, you get a completely new perspective on Rio's famous giants.
There they were, framed beautifully against the horizon: the unmistakable silhouette of Pão de Açúcar (Sugarloaf Mountain) rising sharply from the ocean, and way up high, the iconic Corcovado with the Christ statue watching over the bay. Seeing both landmarks from the water gives you a real sense of how dramatic and beautiful this part of Brazil truly is. It was the perfect backdrop as we headed towards a city known for its own artistic and architectural treasures.
Exploring Niterói: Harbor, History, and Futuristic Lines
We took the ferry, which is by far the best and most relaxing way to make the crossing. It felt like a classic local experience, away from the typical tourist crowds.
Once we docked in Niterói, we spent the day just wandering around and exploring. The city has a completely different pace compared to Rio. We walked along the harbor area, taking in the sights of the boats bobbing in the water, and strolled past the local houses and a beautiful old church. It was a great look into everyday Brazilian life, and I made sure to capture the textures and colors of the buildings with my camera.
Exploring Niterói: Harbor, History, and Futuristic Lines
We took the ferry, which is by far the best and most relaxing way to make the crossing. It felt like a classic local experience, away from the typical tourist crowds.
Once we docked in Niterói, we spent the day just wandering around and exploring. The city has a completely different pace compared to Rio. We walked along the harbor area, taking in the sights of the boats bobbing in the water, and strolled past the local houses and a beautiful old church. It was a great look into everyday Brazilian life, and I made sure to capture the textures and colors of the buildings with my camera.
Futuristic Lines: Meeting Oscar Niemeyer’s Architecture
But you can’t visit Niterói without checking out its absolute architectural crown jewel: the Niterói Contemporary Art Museum (MAC), designed by none other than Oscar Niemeyer.
Seeing this building in person is wild. It looks like a sleek, white futuristic UFO that has gracefully landed on a cliff right above the beach. As an artist, I was completely fascinated by the smooth, curved lines and the bold red ramp leading up to the entrance. It feels less like a traditional building and more like a massive piece of sculpture interacting with the landscape. It was the perfect, artistic end to a simple but unforgettable day trip.
But you can’t visit Niterói without checking out its absolute architectural crown jewel: the Niterói Contemporary Art Museum (MAC), designed by none other than Oscar Niemeyer.
Seeing this building in person is wild. It looks like a sleek, white futuristic UFO that has gracefully landed on a cliff right above the beach. As an artist, I was completely fascinated by the smooth, curved lines and the bold red ramp leading up to the entrance. It feels less like a traditional building and more like a massive piece of sculpture interacting with the landscape. It was the perfect, artistic end to a simple but unforgettable day trip.
Fazenda São Bernardino, Iguaçu Velho
Shadows of the Past: The Orphanage & The Ruins of São Bernardino
Looking back at the very start of our 2001 journey, Mo and I carried an extra bag of specialized supplies meant for a local orphanage located just outside the heavy, chaotic borders of Rio de Janeiro. Heading out to Nova Iguaçu to deliver those things to the Casa do Menor São Miguel Arcanjo was a deeply grounding experience.
The moment we arrived, any exhaustion from the journey melted away. The kids were absolutely thrilled to see us, their faces lighting up with pure joy and wide smiles. Seeing their energy, their resilience, and the incredible heart of the people fighting to give them a safe environment and a real future was unforgettable. Knowing that this beautiful project started by Father Renato Chiera still stands strong today, helping thousands of street children turn their lives around, makes that memory even more special.
But traveling through this rural outskirts area also felt like stepping into a time capsule of Brazil's darker, forgotten history. The landscape is dotted with ghosts.
As we moved through the region, we stumbled upon several abandoned, crumbling mansions swallowed by the jungle. The most hauntingly beautiful one was the Fazenda São Bernardino.
Shadows of the Past: The Orphanage & The Ruins of São Bernardino
Looking back at the very start of our 2001 journey, Mo and I carried an extra bag of specialized supplies meant for a local orphanage located just outside the heavy, chaotic borders of Rio de Janeiro. Heading out to Nova Iguaçu to deliver those things to the Casa do Menor São Miguel Arcanjo was a deeply grounding experience.
The moment we arrived, any exhaustion from the journey melted away. The kids were absolutely thrilled to see us, their faces lighting up with pure joy and wide smiles. Seeing their energy, their resilience, and the incredible heart of the people fighting to give them a safe environment and a real future was unforgettable. Knowing that this beautiful project started by Father Renato Chiera still stands strong today, helping thousands of street children turn their lives around, makes that memory even more special.
But traveling through this rural outskirts area also felt like stepping into a time capsule of Brazil's darker, forgotten history. The landscape is dotted with ghosts.
As we moved through the region, we stumbled upon several abandoned, crumbling mansions swallowed by the jungle. The most hauntingly beautiful one was the Fazenda São Bernardino.
Beauty in Decay: The Haunting Ruins Outside Rio
Built back in 1875 during the height of the coffee boom, this massive neoclassical estate was once a booming rural empire. It had 40 rooms filled with crystal mirrors, stables, and its own sugar mills—all built on the backs of enslaved laborers who lived in the quarters just below the main house. In the 1980s, a massive fire gutted the entire palace, leaving nothing but an empty stone shell.
Standing in front of it as an artist, the visual contrast was overwhelming. The beautiful, decaying window frames with no glass, the structural lines covered in wild green vines, and the heavy silence hanging over a place that once held so much power and pain. It felt like nature was slowly washing away the sins of the past, turning a monument of wealth and human suffering into a beautiful, eerie piece of outdoor sculpture.
Built back in 1875 during the height of the coffee boom, this massive neoclassical estate was once a booming rural empire. It had 40 rooms filled with crystal mirrors, stables, and its own sugar mills—all built on the backs of enslaved laborers who lived in the quarters just below the main house. In the 1980s, a massive fire gutted the entire palace, leaving nothing but an empty stone shell.
Standing in front of it as an artist, the visual contrast was overwhelming. The beautiful, decaying window frames with no glass, the structural lines covered in wild green vines, and the heavy silence hanging over a place that once held so much power and pain. It felt like nature was slowly washing away the sins of the past, turning a monument of wealth and human suffering into a beautiful, eerie piece of outdoor sculpture.
Roda de Samba
The Heartbeat of Rio: Getting Lost in a Live Samba Night
You cannot visit Rio without surrendering to its true heartbeat: Samba. As an artist who is completely obsessed with energy, movement, and intense human connection, hitting a local samba event was an absolute non-negotiable for Mo and me during our 2001 trip.
We didn’t go to a polished, commercial tourist show. Instead, we wanted the real deal—a traditional, raw Roda de Samba.
The setup of a real Roda is beautifully simple. A group of brilliant musicians sits around a central wooden table, armed with acoustic guitars, tamborins, pandeiros, and cavaquinhos. There is no stage and no division between the band and the crowd. Everyone stands in a tight, massive circle around them.
You cannot visit Rio without surrendering to its true heartbeat: Samba. As an artist who is completely obsessed with energy, movement, and intense human connection, hitting a local samba event was an absolute non-negotiable for Mo and me during our 2001 trip.
We didn’t go to a polished, commercial tourist show. Instead, we wanted the real deal—a traditional, raw Roda de Samba.
The setup of a real Roda is beautifully simple. A group of brilliant musicians sits around a central wooden table, armed with acoustic guitars, tamborins, pandeiros, and cavaquinhos. There is no stage and no division between the band and the crowd. Everyone stands in a tight, massive circle around them.
Pure Friction: Where Music Meets the Soul of the Crowd
The moment the first string was plucked and the leather drumheads started to rumble, the entire room shifted. The rhythm hits you right in your chest. It’s loud, it’s sweaty, and it is beautifully chaotic. What blew me away was how everyone in the crowd knew every single lyric by heart. People weren't just listening—they were singing at the top of their lungs, clapping their hands, and dancing with an effortless, intoxicating grace. It felt less like a music concert and more like a collective spiritual ritual.
Just when you think you’ve seen it all, Rio gives you one last gift right on the asphalt. As our journey was coming to an end, we stumbled upon a group of local musicians playing right on the sidewalk—no fancy stage, no entry fee, just pure passion spilled onto the concrete.
Don't hustle, be strong—and always listen to the beat of the street.
The moment the first string was plucked and the leather drumheads started to rumble, the entire room shifted. The rhythm hits you right in your chest. It’s loud, it’s sweaty, and it is beautifully chaotic. What blew me away was how everyone in the crowd knew every single lyric by heart. People weren't just listening—they were singing at the top of their lungs, clapping their hands, and dancing with an effortless, intoxicating grace. It felt less like a music concert and more like a collective spiritual ritual.
Just when you think you’ve seen it all, Rio gives you one last gift right on the asphalt. As our journey was coming to an end, we stumbled upon a group of local musicians playing right on the sidewalk—no fancy stage, no entry fee, just pure passion spilled onto the concrete.
Don't hustle, be strong—and always listen to the beat of the street.
Foz do Iguaçu
Skipping the 40-Hour Bus Ride: Flying into Foz do Iguaçu
After the chaotic, beautiful madness of Rio, Mo and I headed to our next grand destination: the legendary Foz do Iguaçu waterfalls. But the story of how we got there is a little travel hack of its own.
Skipping the 40-Hour Bus Ride: Flying into Foz do Iguaçu
After the chaotic, beautiful madness of Rio, Mo and I headed to our next grand destination: the legendary Foz do Iguaçu waterfalls. But the story of how we got there is a little travel hack of its own.
Back in 2001, I was working for Lufthansa. One of the ultimate perks of the job was getting a massive 90% staff discount on stand-by flights, including with Varig Airlines—the iconic Brazilian carrier that was still dominating the skies back then. Even better, I was allowed to bring a travel companion along for a stellar 75% discount.
So, instead of spending 24 to 40 grueling hours on a bumpy long-distance bus, Mo and I hopped on a plane. We paid virtually the same price as a bus ticket, but instead of losing nearly two days on the road, we arrived in a smooth 2 hours. Talk about traveling in style on a backpacker budget!
The Clash of Two Sides: Brazil vs. Argentina
When you visit Iguaçu, you quickly learn that you can't just see one side. You have to experience both the Brazilian and the Argentinean sides to truly understand the sheer scale of this natural wonder.
We started our adventure on the Brazilian side:
So, instead of spending 24 to 40 grueling hours on a bumpy long-distance bus, Mo and I hopped on a plane. We paid virtually the same price as a bus ticket, but instead of losing nearly two days on the road, we arrived in a smooth 2 hours. Talk about traveling in style on a backpacker budget!
The Clash of Two Sides: Brazil vs. Argentina
When you visit Iguaçu, you quickly learn that you can't just see one side. You have to experience both the Brazilian and the Argentinean sides to truly understand the sheer scale of this natural wonder.
We started our adventure on the Brazilian side:
Iguaçu from Both Sides: The Grand Panorama
If the waterfalls were a movie theater, the Brazilian side would be the premium front-row seat for the entire show. From this side, you get the grand, jaw-dropping panoramic views. You stand on the walkways and look out across the canyon at hundreds of individual waterfalls cascading down into the lush green jungle. It’s an artist's dream—the contrast of the deep green trees, the pure white exploding water, and the massive rainbows arching through the mist. It felt like looking at a gigantic, living painting that just completely humbles you.
If the waterfalls were a movie theater, the Brazilian side would be the premium front-row seat for the entire show. From this side, you get the grand, jaw-dropping panoramic views. You stand on the walkways and look out across the canyon at hundreds of individual waterfalls cascading down into the lush green jungle. It’s an artist's dream—the contrast of the deep green trees, the pure white exploding water, and the massive rainbows arching through the mist. It felt like looking at a gigantic, living painting that just completely humbles you.
Step into the Roar: The Argentinean Side & The Devil's Throat
The next day, Mo and I crossed the border to the Argentinean side—and let me tell you, the vibe here is completely different. If Brazil gives you the big picture, Argentina drags you right into the action. You don't just look at the waterfalls here; you walk on them.
The absolute climax of this side is the legendary Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat).
To get there, you walk along an endless metal catwalk that stretches right across the wide, rushing river. The closer you get, the louder it becomes until a deep, thundering roar vibrates right through your chest. And then, suddenly, you are standing directly on the edge of the abyss.
The next day, Mo and I crossed the border to the Argentinean side—and let me tell you, the vibe here is completely different. If Brazil gives you the big picture, Argentina drags you right into the action. You don't just look at the waterfalls here; you walk on them.
The absolute climax of this side is the legendary Garganta del Diablo (The Devil’s Throat).
To get there, you walk along an endless metal catwalk that stretches right across the wide, rushing river. The closer you get, the louder it becomes until a deep, thundering roar vibrates right through your chest. And then, suddenly, you are standing directly on the edge of the abyss.
Pure Thunder: Standing on Top of the World's Wildest Waters
Look at that photo I took right from the edge! The water turns into a wild, brownish-white foam, violently exploding over the cliff and crashing into the misty depths below. The sheer power is terrifying and beautiful all at once. The heavy mist blasts right into your face, soaking your clothes in seconds, while tiny rainbows dance in the spray against the dark green jungle. Standing there, feeling the raw, unchecked force of planet Earth right under your boots, leaves you completely speechless. It’s nature in its most aggressive, beautiful, and artistic form.
Jungle Safari & A Master of Camouflage
Walking through the National Park felt like stepping into a tropical jungle safari. The place was absolutely crawling with life, and Mo and I spent half our time just pointing at the trees and pathways.
Massive, colorful butterflies fluttered around our heads, lizards darted across the stones, and huge, prehistoric-looking iguanas sunbathed right next to the trails. We even ran into the notoriously cheeky coatis(Nasenbären)—those clever little jungle bandits that roam the park trying to steal food straight out of tourists' bags! We stumbled as well upon a massive stick insect, a true master of camouflage. If it hadn’t crawled onto the metallic frame of the path, we would have completely missed it.
Look at that photo I took right from the edge! The water turns into a wild, brownish-white foam, violently exploding over the cliff and crashing into the misty depths below. The sheer power is terrifying and beautiful all at once. The heavy mist blasts right into your face, soaking your clothes in seconds, while tiny rainbows dance in the spray against the dark green jungle. Standing there, feeling the raw, unchecked force of planet Earth right under your boots, leaves you completely speechless. It’s nature in its most aggressive, beautiful, and artistic form.
Jungle Safari & A Master of Camouflage
Walking through the National Park felt like stepping into a tropical jungle safari. The place was absolutely crawling with life, and Mo and I spent half our time just pointing at the trees and pathways.
Massive, colorful butterflies fluttered around our heads, lizards darted across the stones, and huge, prehistoric-looking iguanas sunbathed right next to the trails. We even ran into the notoriously cheeky coatis(Nasenbären)—those clever little jungle bandits that roam the park trying to steal food straight out of tourists' bags! We stumbled as well upon a massive stick insect, a true master of camouflage. If it hadn’t crawled onto the metallic frame of the path, we would have completely missed it.
Standing there one last time, looking out over the endless curtain of rushing water, the sheer majesty of this place just leaves you completely humbled. It is a view that burns itself straight into your memory—the absolute, unbridled power of nature at its finest.
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Parque das Aves Foz do Iguaçu |
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A Symphony of Colors: The Parque das Aves
Right next to the falls, we visited the incredible bird park. Walking through these massive aviaries feels like stepping into a living explosion of colors, filled with exotic species from screaming macaws to prehistoric-looking eagles.
The best part was getting face-to-face with these beautiful creatures. I snapped a gorgeous Demoiselle Crane, looking right into my lens with absolute curiosity, its sleek blue-gray feathers and white head tufts looking incredibly regal. Just a few steps further, we found a pair of stunning Grey Crowned Cranes wearing their stiff, golden mohawks like royalty.
My favorite finds, however, were the native species that tied our whole South American journey together. We stumbled upon a nesting family of the Southern Screamer proudly guarding their fluffy chicks in the grass, and a pair of majestic Greater Rheas resting in the shade. To top it all off, a blazing Jandaya Parakeet stole the show from his branch—a brilliant little parrot with a fiery yellow head and deep green wings.
Right next to the falls, we visited the incredible bird park. Walking through these massive aviaries feels like stepping into a living explosion of colors, filled with exotic species from screaming macaws to prehistoric-looking eagles.
The best part was getting face-to-face with these beautiful creatures. I snapped a gorgeous Demoiselle Crane, looking right into my lens with absolute curiosity, its sleek blue-gray feathers and white head tufts looking incredibly regal. Just a few steps further, we found a pair of stunning Grey Crowned Cranes wearing their stiff, golden mohawks like royalty.
My favorite finds, however, were the native species that tied our whole South American journey together. We stumbled upon a nesting family of the Southern Screamer proudly guarding their fluffy chicks in the grass, and a pair of majestic Greater Rheas resting in the shade. To top it all off, a blazing Jandaya Parakeet stole the show from his branch—a brilliant little parrot with a fiery yellow head and deep green wings.
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Heading North: A Brief Stop in Natal |
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Northeast Horizons: Passing Through Natal
In 2001, my journey took me further up the northeastern coast of Brazil. This trip was all about that classic, free-flowing backpacker life—moving from town to town, constantly crossing paths with other travelers, joining forces for a few days, and then splitting up again when the road called.
One of my quick interludes along this endless coastline was Natal, a city famous for its towering sand dunes and brutal ocean winds. I didn’t stay long, but this panoramic view from the coast perfectly sums up the raw beauty of the region.
In 2001, my journey took me further up the northeastern coast of Brazil. This trip was all about that classic, free-flowing backpacker life—moving from town to town, constantly crossing paths with other travelers, joining forces for a few days, and then splitting up again when the road called.
One of my quick interludes along this endless coastline was Natal, a city famous for its towering sand dunes and brutal ocean winds. I didn’t stay long, but this panoramic view from the coast perfectly sums up the raw beauty of the region.
Fortaleza
Arrival in Fortaleza: Skyscrapers, Statues, and Rough Seas
Arriving in Fortaleza in 2001 felt like stepping into a whole new world of coastal contrasts. The city is a wild mix of massive, modern architecture colliding directly with the raw power of the Atlantic Ocean.
Downtown Fortaleza is a bustling, high-energy hub, but my favorite parts were where the city streets met the sand. As you walk along the beach, the skyline rises up like a wall of concrete giants, towering right over the coast. But among all these modern skyscrapers, it’s the artistic and historical landmarks that truly catch your eye.
Arriving in Fortaleza in 2001 felt like stepping into a whole new world of coastal contrasts. The city is a wild mix of massive, modern architecture colliding directly with the raw power of the Atlantic Ocean.
Downtown Fortaleza is a bustling, high-energy hub, but my favorite parts were where the city streets met the sand. As you walk along the beach, the skyline rises up like a wall of concrete giants, towering right over the coast. But among all these modern skyscrapers, it’s the artistic and historical landmarks that truly catch your eye.
The Tabajara Spirit & The Wild Waves of Fortaleza
Standing proudly at the Praia de Iracema is the famous Iracema Guardiã monument, inaugurated in 1996 to honor the famous 1865 novel by author José de Alencar. The striking bronze sculpture, created by Brazilian artist Coronel Zenon Barreto, captures the legendary indigene Tabajara-Kriegerin kneeling in a dynamic, athletic pose as she pulls back a large bow. She is a powerful symbol of the state of Ceará and its indigenous roots. As an artist, I absolutely loved the sweeping, fluid lines of her silhouette juxtaposed against the blocky, rigid skyscrapers in the distant background. Today, it stands as the ultimate postcard image of the city.
But what really dominates the vibe in Fortaleza is the ocean itself. The Atlantic here doesn't just calmly roll onto the shore; it hits the coast with a fierce, wild wave action. Watching the massive, powerful waves crash violently against the sea walls and the stone piers is mesmerizing. It gives the whole city a restless, untamed energy—a perfect reflection of that free-spirited backpacker lifestyle.
Standing proudly at the Praia de Iracema is the famous Iracema Guardiã monument, inaugurated in 1996 to honor the famous 1865 novel by author José de Alencar. The striking bronze sculpture, created by Brazilian artist Coronel Zenon Barreto, captures the legendary indigene Tabajara-Kriegerin kneeling in a dynamic, athletic pose as she pulls back a large bow. She is a powerful symbol of the state of Ceará and its indigenous roots. As an artist, I absolutely loved the sweeping, fluid lines of her silhouette juxtaposed against the blocky, rigid skyscrapers in the distant background. Today, it stands as the ultimate postcard image of the city.
But what really dominates the vibe in Fortaleza is the ocean itself. The Atlantic here doesn't just calmly roll onto the shore; it hits the coast with a fierce, wild wave action. Watching the massive, powerful waves crash violently against the sea walls and the stone piers is mesmerizing. It gives the whole city a restless, untamed energy—a perfect reflection of that free-spirited backpacker lifestyle.
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Lagoa do Messejana, Fortaleza |
Hit the Road: A Coastline Road Trip with Irmy
This wasn’t my first time in Fortaleza, but this second visit had a completely different energy. This time, my friend Irmy and I decided to take our freedom into our own hands: we rented a car, threw our bags in the back, and hit the road heading south toward the legendary beach town of Canoa Quebrada.
Having a rental car allowed us to escape the typical tourist paths and explore at our own pace. As we navigated our way out of the city limits, our first stop was the historic neighborhood of Messejana and its beautiful Lagoa do Messejana.
This peaceful lake is the actual setting of the famous romance novel and is celebrated as the birthplace of the Tabajara warrior woman. Standing by the weathered, classic stone balustrade and looking out over the water felt like stepping into a time capsule of Brazil's cultural history.
Shortly after, we stumbled upon a breathtaking hidden sanctuary along our route—the perfect tropical oasis to cool off from the brutal northeastern heat.
This wasn’t my first time in Fortaleza, but this second visit had a completely different energy. This time, my friend Irmy and I decided to take our freedom into our own hands: we rented a car, threw our bags in the back, and hit the road heading south toward the legendary beach town of Canoa Quebrada.
Having a rental car allowed us to escape the typical tourist paths and explore at our own pace. As we navigated our way out of the city limits, our first stop was the historic neighborhood of Messejana and its beautiful Lagoa do Messejana.
This peaceful lake is the actual setting of the famous romance novel and is celebrated as the birthplace of the Tabajara warrior woman. Standing by the weathered, classic stone balustrade and looking out over the water felt like stepping into a time capsule of Brazil's cultural history.
Shortly after, we stumbled upon a breathtaking hidden sanctuary along our route—the perfect tropical oasis to cool off from the brutal northeastern heat.
Beaches of Fortaleza
From City Lakes to Endless Sands: Our Ceará Road Trip
We hopped back in the car. Soon, the urban landscape faded away entirely, and we hit the first wild, open beaches still belonging to the greater Fortaleza area. Watching the rugged coastline change from high-rise buildings to endless sand dunes from the car windows was exhilarating. We kept driving, the ocean breeze in our hair, and passed by all these wonderful beaches.
From City Lakes to Endless Sands: Our Ceará Road Trip
We hopped back in the car. Soon, the urban landscape faded away entirely, and we hit the first wild, open beaches still belonging to the greater Fortaleza area. Watching the rugged coastline change from high-rise buildings to endless sand dunes from the car windows was exhilarating. We kept driving, the ocean breeze in our hair, and passed by all these wonderful beaches.
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Canoa Quebrada Arriving in Canoa Quebrada: The Half-Moon and Red Cliffs When Irmy and I finally arrived in Canoa Quebrada, we were instantly struck by its legendary, laid-back hippie vibe. The town is famous for its stunning red cliffs and its iconic symbol—a crescent moon and star carved into the rock face. Seeing that symbol etched against the orange clay of the cliffs is magical. It originally started as a tribute by a local artisan back in the 1970s and has since become the true soul of the village, representing freedom and cosmic energy. |
The Red Cliffs of Ceará: Living the Slow Life in Canoa
Our paths split a little bit here. Irmy checked into a local hotel since she could only stay for a quick two-day getaway. But I had the ultimate jackpot waiting for me: a group of my Lufthansa airline colleagues had rented a massive house right there in town. I ended up staying with them for a full week!
It was pure bliss. I spent my days drifting down to the beach, soaking in the endless sun, and capturing the daily life of the locals and fishermen with my camera. There was no rush, no schedule—just enjoying the warm ocean, the cool breeze, and that beautiful, slow-paced Brazilian beach life.
Freedom, cosmic energy, and a deep connection with nature
The Story of Canoa Quebrada: From Fishing Village to Hippie Haven
The Story of Canoa Quebrada: From Fishing Village to Hippie Haven
- Until the late 1960s, Canoa Quebrada was a completely isolated oasis with no roads or electricity, where locals lived a simple life fishing on traditional wooden rafts (jangadas). Everything changed in the 1970s when European backpackers, artists, and hippies discovered the unberished paradise. The local fishermen welcomed the free-spirited travelers into their simple clay huts, creating a unique fusion of traditional lifestyle and alternative, psychedelic energy. Legendary beach parties under the full moon turned the village into South America's ultimate hippie mecca.
- The Moon and Star Symbol: The iconic crescent moon and star (Lua e Estrela) etched into the striking red clay cliffs is the official emblem of the town. It was created in the late 1970s by a local artisan named Francisco Fernandes Pinto (Chico Eliziário), who first carved it into jewelry for the hippies before chiseling the massive artwork directly into the rock face. For the alternative community, it remains a powerful symbol of freedom and cosmic energy.
- The "Broadway": The ironic spirit of the hippies lives on in the village's main pedestrian street. The lively strip of bars, reggae music, and artisan markets was named "The Broadway" by the early expats. It completely sleeps during the hot daylight hours, but transforms into a pulsating runway of rhythm and local art as soon as the sun goes down.
Salvador da Bahia
the Pulsing Soul of Pelourinho
When Mo and I explored Salvador da Bahia back in 2002, we stepped right into the cultural epicenter of Afro-Brazilian heritage. The moment you enter the historic district of Pelourinho, your senses are completely overwhelmed by steep cobblestone streets, bright pastel colonial buildings, and the echo of Olodum drums vibrating through the air.
Pelourinho's Heartbeat: Tradition and Blue Facades
Right in the center of this color explosion stands the magnificent Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos. Built in the 18th century by enslaved and free African laborers who were banned from white churches, it stands today as a powerful monument of resilience. I absolutely loved the composition of this historic landmark—the brilliant pastel blue and warm yellow trim of the baroque facade framing the sky, crisscrossed by vibrant strings of red and white festival banners. Even today, the church is alive with a unique energy where traditional Catholic mass blends seamlessly with the spiritual drums of Afro-Brazilian Candomblé culture.
the Pulsing Soul of Pelourinho
When Mo and I explored Salvador da Bahia back in 2002, we stepped right into the cultural epicenter of Afro-Brazilian heritage. The moment you enter the historic district of Pelourinho, your senses are completely overwhelmed by steep cobblestone streets, bright pastel colonial buildings, and the echo of Olodum drums vibrating through the air.
Pelourinho's Heartbeat: Tradition and Blue Facades
Right in the center of this color explosion stands the magnificent Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário dos Pretos. Built in the 18th century by enslaved and free African laborers who were banned from white churches, it stands today as a powerful monument of resilience. I absolutely loved the composition of this historic landmark—the brilliant pastel blue and warm yellow trim of the baroque facade framing the sky, crisscrossed by vibrant strings of red and white festival banners. Even today, the church is alive with a unique energy where traditional Catholic mass blends seamlessly with the spiritual drums of Afro-Brazilian Candomblé culture.
Connecting Two Worlds: Elevador Lacerda & Downtown
Salvador is a city built on two distinct levels, separated by a massive 70-meter cliff. To get from the historic Upper City down to the bustling Lower City, known as Downtown Comércio, you use the iconic Elevador Lacerda. This towering, Art Deco-style concrete elevator is a engineering marvel and the absolute lifeline of the city.
Stepping out of the elevator at the bottom brings you straight into the high-energy pulse of downtown and the historic harbor area. This port is where the soul of Salvador began, facing the vast Guanabara Bay. Watching the local boats bobbing in the water next to the massive, historic customs buildings and the famous Mercado Modelo market creates a spectacular contrast between the old colonial trade world and the gritty, modern reality of Bahia today. It’s raw, it’s beautiful, and it is the true, beating heart of Brazil.
Salvador is a city built on two distinct levels, separated by a massive 70-meter cliff. To get from the historic Upper City down to the bustling Lower City, known as Downtown Comércio, you use the iconic Elevador Lacerda. This towering, Art Deco-style concrete elevator is a engineering marvel and the absolute lifeline of the city.
Stepping out of the elevator at the bottom brings you straight into the high-energy pulse of downtown and the historic harbor area. This port is where the soul of Salvador began, facing the vast Guanabara Bay. Watching the local boats bobbing in the water next to the massive, historic customs buildings and the famous Mercado Modelo market creates a spectacular contrast between the old colonial trade world and the gritty, modern reality of Bahia today. It’s raw, it’s beautiful, and it is the true, beating heart of Brazil.
The Spirit of the Streets: The Baianas de Acarajé
Walking these historic streets, you cannot separate the spirit of Bahia from the iconic Baianas de Acarajé.
Look at the beautiful, radiant smiles and the proud posture of these two women I photographed! They are wearing the traditional, flowing Afro-Brazilian dress: layered white lace blouses, massive, bell-shaped skirts, and beautifully wrapped colorful turbans. Their heavy, vibrant beaded necklaces are not just jewelry; they carry deep spiritual meaning, representing different deities of the Candomblé religion.
Historically, these women were vendors who sold acarajé—delicious, spicy black-eyed pea fritters fried in dende palm oil—on the street corners to buy their own freedom during the era of slavery.
Walking these historic streets, you cannot separate the spirit of Bahia from the iconic Baianas de Acarajé.
Look at the beautiful, radiant smiles and the proud posture of these two women I photographed! They are wearing the traditional, flowing Afro-Brazilian dress: layered white lace blouses, massive, bell-shaped skirts, and beautifully wrapped colorful turbans. Their heavy, vibrant beaded necklaces are not just jewelry; they carry deep spiritual meaning, representing different deities of the Candomblé religion.
Historically, these women were vendors who sold acarajé—delicious, spicy black-eyed pea fritters fried in dende palm oil—on the street corners to buy their own freedom during the era of slavery.
Salvador da Bahia — Quick Facts:
- The First Capital: Founded in 1549, Salvador was the very first colonial capital of Brazil and remains one of the oldest cities in the Americas.
- The Elevator's History: Inaugurated in 1873, the Elevador Lacerda was the first public elevator in the world to connect two urban levels.
- City of Churches: Local myth says Salvador has 365 churches—one for every day of the year—ranging from simple hidden chapels to gold-covered baroque masterpieces.
- Afro-Brazilian Center: It is the heart of Afro-Brazilian culture; the martial art dance Capoeira and the unique syncretic Candomblé religion were both born and shaped right here.
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Curitiba
Curitiba to Paranaguá: The Great Jungle Railway
In 2001, Mo and I headed south to Curitiba to experience what is widely considered one of the most spectacular and engineering-defying train rides on the planet: the historic railway down to the coastal port of Paranaguá.
The journey takes you from the high plateau of Curitiba straight down through the sheer canyons of the Serra do Mar, cutting right through the dense, untouched Atlantic Rainforest. As the train left the city limits, the landscape transformed into a dramatic world of mist, jagged green peaks, and deep valleys.
Through the Mist: Canyons, Cascades, and Ghostly Ruins
The ride is a visual overload for anyone who loves raw nature and textures. As the vintage train slowly rumbled along the mountain edges, we passed spectacular hidden waterfalls cascading down vertical rock faces, their white mist spraying right against the train windows.
But what really caught my eye as an artist were the ghosts of the past hidden in the greenery. Every now and then, poking through the thick jungle vines and towering ferns, we spotted abandoned colonial railway stations and crumbling, forgotten houses. These empty stone shells, slowly being swallowed back by nature, looked incredibly eerie and beautiful against the vibrant green backdrop—like monuments to a bygone era of pioneers and engineers who braved this wild terrain.
Curitiba to Paranaguá: The Great Jungle Railway
In 2001, Mo and I headed south to Curitiba to experience what is widely considered one of the most spectacular and engineering-defying train rides on the planet: the historic railway down to the coastal port of Paranaguá.
The journey takes you from the high plateau of Curitiba straight down through the sheer canyons of the Serra do Mar, cutting right through the dense, untouched Atlantic Rainforest. As the train left the city limits, the landscape transformed into a dramatic world of mist, jagged green peaks, and deep valleys.
Through the Mist: Canyons, Cascades, and Ghostly Ruins
The ride is a visual overload for anyone who loves raw nature and textures. As the vintage train slowly rumbled along the mountain edges, we passed spectacular hidden waterfalls cascading down vertical rock faces, their white mist spraying right against the train windows.
But what really caught my eye as an artist were the ghosts of the past hidden in the greenery. Every now and then, poking through the thick jungle vines and towering ferns, we spotted abandoned colonial railway stations and crumbling, forgotten houses. These empty stone shells, slowly being swallowed back by nature, looked incredibly eerie and beautiful against the vibrant green backdrop—like monuments to a bygone era of pioneers and engineers who braved this wild terrain.
The Ghostly Tracks of the Atlantic Forest
The train itself felt like a time machine, creaking across massive, skeletal iron bridges suspended hundreds of meters above empty canyons. Looking down into the abyss from the open windows was terrifying and absolutely exhilarating all at once. By the time the tracks flattened out near the old port town of Paranaguá, Mo and I felt like we had just survived a true jungle expedition.
The Serra Verde Express — Quick Facts:
The secret of the abandoned buildings
The crumbling stone houses and forgotten stations swallowed by the jungle were once vital lifelines. Built in 1885, they served as water stops for old steam trains and homes for railway guards who protected the tracks from mudslides. When modern, automated trains took over, these remote outposts became obsolete. Today, the aggressive Atlantic rainforest is slowly reclaiming them, leaving behind a hauntingly beautiful trail of colonial decay
The train itself felt like a time machine, creaking across massive, skeletal iron bridges suspended hundreds of meters above empty canyons. Looking down into the abyss from the open windows was terrifying and absolutely exhilarating all at once. By the time the tracks flattened out near the old port town of Paranaguá, Mo and I felt like we had just survived a true jungle expedition.
The Serra Verde Express — Quick Facts:
- An Engineering Miracle: Built between 1880 and 1885, the railway was considered an impossible feat of engineering, constructed by over 9,000 workers under brutal tropical conditions.
- The Scale: The track spans around 110 kilometers, crossing a jaw-dropping 41 iron bridges and viaducts and cutting through 14 solid-rock tunnels.
- The Masterpiece Bridge: The most famous structure on the route is the São João Viaduct, a massive steel bridge suspended 55 meters high on a steep mountain slope.
- The Descent: The train starts at an altitude of around 934 meters in Curitiba and drops all the way down to sea level, offering a complete shift in climate and vegetation in just a few hours.
The secret of the abandoned buildings
The crumbling stone houses and forgotten stations swallowed by the jungle were once vital lifelines. Built in 1885, they served as water stops for old steam trains and homes for railway guards who protected the tracks from mudslides. When modern, automated trains took over, these remote outposts became obsolete. Today, the aggressive Atlantic rainforest is slowly reclaiming them, leaving behind a hauntingly beautiful trail of colonial decay
Paranaguá
Where the Tracks Meet the Sea: Paranaguá
When the train finally reached the coast and pulled into Paranaguá, we were greeted by a beautiful, nostalgic atmosphere. Walking along the quiet waterfront, the streets are lined with historic 18th-century colonial trading houses. Founded in 1648, Paranaguá is one of the oldest cities in Brazil, and its port remains a major trading hub for coffee and soy today.
Where the Tracks Meet the Sea: Paranaguá
When the train finally reached the coast and pulled into Paranaguá, we were greeted by a beautiful, nostalgic atmosphere. Walking along the quiet waterfront, the streets are lined with historic 18th-century colonial trading houses. Founded in 1648, Paranaguá is one of the oldest cities in Brazil, and its port remains a major trading hub for coffee and soy today.
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our hotel
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Belém
The Gateway to the Mighty Amazon In 2001, Mo and I reached our next major milestone: Belém, a historic city known as the true beginning and the end of the Amazon River. Strategically sitting right at the mouth of the world's most famous river system, this high-energy port city was our final Brazilian stop before flying out to French Guiana and Trinidad & Tobago. |
Where River Boats and History Collide
Belém has a raw, heavy atmosphere where the thick jungle air meets the saltwater of the Atlantic. We spent our time exploring the busy harbor area, the absolute lifeblood of the region. Standing at the docks, watching the massive, colorful wooden riverboats pack tightly together, loading up everything from acai berries to hammocks for their long journeys deep into the Amazon jungle, was fascinating.
Right next to the port lies the historic old town, filled with crumbling colonial Portuguese architecture, grand plazas, and streets lined with massive mango trees that give the city its unique character.
Belém has a raw, heavy atmosphere where the thick jungle air meets the saltwater of the Atlantic. We spent our time exploring the busy harbor area, the absolute lifeblood of the region. Standing at the docks, watching the massive, colorful wooden riverboats pack tightly together, loading up everything from acai berries to hammocks for their long journeys deep into the Amazon jungle, was fascinating.
Right next to the port lies the historic old town, filled with crumbling colonial Portuguese architecture, grand plazas, and streets lined with massive mango trees that give the city its unique character.
A Vintage Blast from the Past: Amazonian Street Art
But as an artist, some of my favorite snapshots from the streets weren't of the grand cathedrals, but of a unique piece of Brazilian street culture that the younger generation today wouldn't even recognize: the local payphones!
Back in 2001, before everyone carried a smartphone in their pocket, Brazil was famous for its iconic, giant hood-shaped public telephone booths, affectionately called Orelhões (big ears). In Belém and the Amazon region, they took creativity to a whole new level by shaping these massive booths into wild jungle animals! I just had to capture these two hilarious phone booths shaped like exotic animals. It’s pure, functional street art and a beautiful, nostalgic reminder of how we used to navigate the world back then.
Belém — Quick Facts:
But as an artist, some of my favorite snapshots from the streets weren't of the grand cathedrals, but of a unique piece of Brazilian street culture that the younger generation today wouldn't even recognize: the local payphones!
Back in 2001, before everyone carried a smartphone in their pocket, Brazil was famous for its iconic, giant hood-shaped public telephone booths, affectionately called Orelhões (big ears). In Belém and the Amazon region, they took creativity to a whole new level by shaping these massive booths into wild jungle animals! I just had to capture these two hilarious phone booths shaped like exotic animals. It’s pure, functional street art and a beautiful, nostalgic reminder of how we used to navigate the world back then.
Belém — Quick Facts:
- The Amazon Gateway: Founded in 1616 by the Portuguese, Belém is the oldest European city on the Amazon River and the capital of the state of Pará.
- The Mango City: It is nicknamed Cidade das Mangueiras (City of Mango Trees) because its historic streets are lined with massive, ancient mango trees that provide vital shade from the brutal tropical heat.
- Ver-o-Peso Market: The city is home to Latin America’s largest open-air market, operating since 1627, where locals sell fresh Amazonian fish, exotic fruits, and shamanic jungle medicines.
- The Rubber Boom: During the late 19th century, Belém became incredibly wealthy due to the Amazon rubber boom, which funded grand European-style palaces and the famous Theatro da Paz.
Manaus
The Standby Thriller: Flying to Manaus on a Single Paper Ticket
My second journey into the mighty Amazon in 2003 was an adventure that started long before we even touched the jungle ground. This time, I was traveling with my friend Ute—one of my brilliant Lufthansa colleagues from the Canoa Quebrada days.
The flight from Fortaleza to Manaus was an absolute rollercoaster of nerves. We were traveling on a single standby ticket (ID90). What we didn’t realize was that this flight was a multi-sector journey, meaning the plane was going to make three separate stops along the way to drop off and pick up passengers.
To make things incredibly stressful: this was back in the days of physical paper tickets. The gate agent in Fortaleza took our entire ticket booklet right at the start. So there we were, making stop after stop, sweating and biting our nails at every single transit airport, completely blind without any paper vouchers in our hands, praying to the airline gods that we wouldn't get bumped off for the next leg. It was pure luck, adrenaline, and a huge relief when we finally made it all the way to Manaus!
The Standby Thriller: Flying to Manaus on a Single Paper Ticket
My second journey into the mighty Amazon in 2003 was an adventure that started long before we even touched the jungle ground. This time, I was traveling with my friend Ute—one of my brilliant Lufthansa colleagues from the Canoa Quebrada days.
The flight from Fortaleza to Manaus was an absolute rollercoaster of nerves. We were traveling on a single standby ticket (ID90). What we didn’t realize was that this flight was a multi-sector journey, meaning the plane was going to make three separate stops along the way to drop off and pick up passengers.
To make things incredibly stressful: this was back in the days of physical paper tickets. The gate agent in Fortaleza took our entire ticket booklet right at the start. So there we were, making stop after stop, sweating and biting our nails at every single transit airport, completely blind without any paper vouchers in our hands, praying to the airline gods that we wouldn't get bumped off for the next leg. It was pure luck, adrenaline, and a huge relief when we finally made it all the way to Manaus!
The Paris of the Tropics: Monuments in the Jungle: Eiffel Ironwork and Rubber Boom Royalty
Once our nerves settled, Ute and I headed out for some classic city sightseeing. Manaus completely blows your mind because of its history. During the late 19th-century rubber boom, this city became one of the wealthiest places in the world, and that golden era left behind some spectacular European-style architecture right in the middle of the dense jungle.
We spent our day exploring and photographing these grand monuments. One of the absolute highlights was the bustling Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa, built back in 1882. It is a stunning piece of architecture, heavily inspired by the famous Les Halles market in Paris, featuring intricate ironwork exported all the way from Europe. Today, it is a sensory overload of exotic Amazonian fish, fruits, and crafts.
We also strolled past the grand historic buildings of the Governo do Estado do Amazonas, with their regal colonial facades reminding you of the immense power and wealth that once flowed through this jungle metropolis. It was the perfect, historic contrast to the wild nature waiting just beyond the city limits.
Manaus & The Rubber Boom — Quick Facts:
Once our nerves settled, Ute and I headed out for some classic city sightseeing. Manaus completely blows your mind because of its history. During the late 19th-century rubber boom, this city became one of the wealthiest places in the world, and that golden era left behind some spectacular European-style architecture right in the middle of the dense jungle.
We spent our day exploring and photographing these grand monuments. One of the absolute highlights was the bustling Mercado Municipal Adolpho Lisboa, built back in 1882. It is a stunning piece of architecture, heavily inspired by the famous Les Halles market in Paris, featuring intricate ironwork exported all the way from Europe. Today, it is a sensory overload of exotic Amazonian fish, fruits, and crafts.
We also strolled past the grand historic buildings of the Governo do Estado do Amazonas, with their regal colonial facades reminding you of the immense power and wealth that once flowed through this jungle metropolis. It was the perfect, historic contrast to the wild nature waiting just beyond the city limits.
Manaus & The Rubber Boom — Quick Facts:
- The Parisian Market: Opened in 1882, the Mercado Municipal was designed by Adolfo Lisboa and features a beautiful iron structure created entirely in the famous workshops of Gustave Eiffel in Paris.
- The First in Infrastructure: Thanks to the rubber boom, Manaus was one of the very first cities in Brazil to have electricity, a public streetcar system, and a university.
- The Jungle Opera: The city is world-famous for the Teatro Amazonas (1896), a magnificent renaissance opera house built with Italian marble, French glass, and Scottish steel, right in the heart of the rainforest.
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Amazonas
Into the Heart of Darkness: The Black-and-White Gamble on Rio Urubu To truly experience the power of the Amazon, Ute and I left the concrete streets of Manaus far behind. We headed about 200 kilometers deep into the wilderness to embark on a rugged canoe expedition along the Rio Urubu, a stunning blackwater river twisting through the dense primary rainforest. But right at the start of the trek, I realized I had made a massive mistake. I looked at my camera and froze: I had accidentally loaded a black-and-white film. Man, I was so incredibly annoyed! |
Back then, in the days of analog photography, you couldn’t just press a button or swap a memory card. You were stuck with your choice for the next 36 frames. Here I was, sitting in the middle of the ultimate green lung of our planet, surrounded by an explosion of tropical colors, vibrant birds, and neon frogs—and I was forced to shoot it all in monochrome. I felt like I was completely ruining my own travel memories.
But analog photography has a magical way of playing tricks on you. Weeks later, after surviving the trip and finally getting back home, I took the rolls to the lab. When I held the developed prints in my hands, the initial anger turned into pure, jaw-dropping surprise. The result was absolutely insane.
Look at this shot of the river. Stripping the Amazon of its famous green completely changed the narrative. The lack of color forces your eyes to focus on the raw, poetic texture of the landscape: the flawless, mirror-like symmetry of the dark blackwater, the heavy, dramatic contours of the equatorial clouds, and the deep, mysterious silhouette of the jungle wall. It feels timeless, eerie, and incredibly powerful—like a fine-art window into a world untouched by civilization. Sometimes, the mistakes you make on the road turn out to be your greatest artistic triumphs.
Tarantulas and Jungle Nights
The adventure didn't stop on the water. We fully immersed ourselves in the rainforest, setting up camp and sleeping deep inside the jungle. The real adrenaline rush, however, came when the sun went down and we grabbed our flashlights for a night trek.
Navigating the pitch-black undergrowth and the silent rivers by canoe was thrilling. The Amazon completely wakes up after dark, and our flashlights quickly revealed the hidden life in the shadows: massive, hairy tarantulas waiting patiently on the tree trunks, neon-colored frogs hiding on giant leaves, and pairs of eyes glowing back at us from the thick canopy. It was raw, wild, and beautifully intense.
The adventure didn't stop on the water. We fully immersed ourselves in the rainforest, setting up camp and sleeping deep inside the jungle. The real adrenaline rush, however, came when the sun went down and we grabbed our flashlights for a night trek.
Navigating the pitch-black undergrowth and the silent rivers by canoe was thrilling. The Amazon completely wakes up after dark, and our flashlights quickly revealed the hidden life in the shadows: massive, hairy tarantulas waiting patiently on the tree trunks, neon-colored frogs hiding on giant leaves, and pairs of eyes glowing back at us from the thick canopy. It was raw, wild, and beautifully intense.
4 Days on the Rio Solimões
33 Hours in a Hammock: The Wild Ride to Santarém
If you want to experience the true, unvarnished lifestyle of the Amazon, you don’t book a luxury cruise. You buy a ticket for a traditional multi-deck river ferry or also called an hammock boat (gaiola), grab a colorful hammock, and prepare for the ultimate test of patience and adventure. For Ute and me, the goal was traveling from Manaus down to Santarém along the mighty Rio Solimões.
The adventure started with a classic dose of Brazilian timekeeping: our boat departed from the Manaus docks with a massive five-hour delay.
For 33 endless hours, the rhythmic, heavy thumping of our gaiola’s engine became our soundtrack. Ute and I swung gently in our hammocks, watching the endless wall of the green jungle glide past on the horizon. We watched tiny riverside communities, kids waving from wooden canoes, and the massive, wide expanse of the river stretching out like an ocean.
To pass the time during the long journey, we sat down on the deck boards and started playing cards with the Brazilians. Language barriers completely disappeared over the game as we laughed, shared local snacks, and swapped stories. Pushing through the intense tropical heat and watching the spectacular jungle sunset right from the deck rails of the packed gaiola made those 33 hours feel less like a simple transit and more like an unforgettable, shared spiritual journey deep into the soul of Brazil.
33 Hours in a Hammock: The Wild Ride to Santarém
If you want to experience the true, unvarnished lifestyle of the Amazon, you don’t book a luxury cruise. You buy a ticket for a traditional multi-deck river ferry or also called an hammock boat (gaiola), grab a colorful hammock, and prepare for the ultimate test of patience and adventure. For Ute and me, the goal was traveling from Manaus down to Santarém along the mighty Rio Solimões.
The adventure started with a classic dose of Brazilian timekeeping: our boat departed from the Manaus docks with a massive five-hour delay.
For 33 endless hours, the rhythmic, heavy thumping of our gaiola’s engine became our soundtrack. Ute and I swung gently in our hammocks, watching the endless wall of the green jungle glide past on the horizon. We watched tiny riverside communities, kids waving from wooden canoes, and the massive, wide expanse of the river stretching out like an ocean.
To pass the time during the long journey, we sat down on the deck boards and started playing cards with the Brazilians. Language barriers completely disappeared over the game as we laughed, shared local snacks, and swapped stories. Pushing through the intense tropical heat and watching the spectacular jungle sunset right from the deck rails of the packed gaiola made those 33 hours feel less like a simple transit and more like an unforgettable, shared spiritual journey deep into the soul of Brazil.
Santarém
Arrival in Santarém: A Portuguese Outpost in the Jungle
After 33 hours of swinging in our hammocks and playing cards on the riverboat, Ute and I finally docked in Santarém. Stepping off the gaiola and onto the shores where the blue-green waters of the Rio Tapajós meet the muddy brown Amazon felt like entering a living history book.
Santarém has a completely different pace. Founded all the way back in 1661 as a Portuguese Jesuit mission station, it is one of the oldest European settlements in the entire Amazon basin. The city's deep colonial roots are written all over the architecture of the historic downtown area.
Pastels and Palms: Exploring Portuguese History
Walking through the streets, I was immediately charmed by the typical Portuguese colonial buildings. Many of them feature beautifully weathered facades decorated with traditional tiles, ornate window frames, and grand archways painted in fading pastel colors. Looking at these grand structures facing the waterfront, you can easily imagine the old explorers and traders walking the exact same path centuries ago. It was a beautiful, nostalgic contrast to the wild, untouched jungle we had just spent days traveling through—a peaceful harbor steeped in history.
Arrival in Santarém: A Portuguese Outpost in the Jungle
After 33 hours of swinging in our hammocks and playing cards on the riverboat, Ute and I finally docked in Santarém. Stepping off the gaiola and onto the shores where the blue-green waters of the Rio Tapajós meet the muddy brown Amazon felt like entering a living history book.
Santarém has a completely different pace. Founded all the way back in 1661 as a Portuguese Jesuit mission station, it is one of the oldest European settlements in the entire Amazon basin. The city's deep colonial roots are written all over the architecture of the historic downtown area.
Pastels and Palms: Exploring Portuguese History
Walking through the streets, I was immediately charmed by the typical Portuguese colonial buildings. Many of them feature beautifully weathered facades decorated with traditional tiles, ornate window frames, and grand archways painted in fading pastel colors. Looking at these grand structures facing the waterfront, you can easily imagine the old explorers and traders walking the exact same path centuries ago. It was a beautiful, nostalgic contrast to the wild, untouched jungle we had just spent days traveling through—a peaceful harbor steeped in history.
Alter do Chão
Leaving the Jungle: Final Views from Above
Our time in the Amazon had come to an end, and it was time for Ute and me to board our flight from Santarém back to Fortaleza. But the jungle had one last spectacular surprise waiting for us, right through the airplane windows.
As the plane lifted off and climbed into the sky, the landscape below turned into a massive, breathtaking living canvas.
Looking down, we had a perfect bird’s-eye view of Alter do Chão. Widely celebrated as the most beautiful river beach in the entire Amazon basin, seeing its brilliant, white sandbanks and isolated islands cutting through the crystal-clear, blue-green waters of the Rio Tapajós from above was pure magic. It literally looked like a tropical Caribbean paradise dropped right into the middle of the dense rainforest.
Right next to it, the massive, winding ribbon of the Rio Solimões stretched out across the horizon. From the air, you can truly appreciate the terrifying and beautiful scale of the Amazon river system—an endless labyrinth of dark water channels, green jungle canopies, and shifting sandbars carving their way through the earth. Watching this wild kingdom fade into the clouds was the ultimate, majestic farewell to an unforgettable expedition.
Leaving the Jungle: Final Views from Above
Our time in the Amazon had come to an end, and it was time for Ute and me to board our flight from Santarém back to Fortaleza. But the jungle had one last spectacular surprise waiting for us, right through the airplane windows.
As the plane lifted off and climbed into the sky, the landscape below turned into a massive, breathtaking living canvas.
Looking down, we had a perfect bird’s-eye view of Alter do Chão. Widely celebrated as the most beautiful river beach in the entire Amazon basin, seeing its brilliant, white sandbanks and isolated islands cutting through the crystal-clear, blue-green waters of the Rio Tapajós from above was pure magic. It literally looked like a tropical Caribbean paradise dropped right into the middle of the dense rainforest.
Right next to it, the massive, winding ribbon of the Rio Solimões stretched out across the horizon. From the air, you can truly appreciate the terrifying and beautiful scale of the Amazon river system—an endless labyrinth of dark water channels, green jungle canopies, and shifting sandbars carving their way through the earth. Watching this wild kingdom fade into the clouds was the ultimate, majestic farewell to an unforgettable expedition.
