* Isla de Ometepe *
(2002)
(2002)
It was actually a crazy idea—and one that almost went wrong. When I arrived at Finca Magdalena on Isla Ometepe in 2001 and was shocked by the throngs of backpackers, I was lucky enough to run into Paul and Inigo towards evening. They, too, had expected fewer people and—like me—felt very uncomfortable at the finca... So we hatched a plan: to head to the other side of the island, where there wasn't even any tourist infrastructure, let alone a hotel. And since Paul had rented a dual-sport motorcycle in Moyogalpa, our destination was set: off to Mérida!
A great opportunity arose for Paul to put his moped to full use, while we, of course, looked forward to the free ride... I was the first to go; fully loaded with a large backpack on my back and a small daypack on my chest, I climbed onto the moped, and off we went...
Paul sped off, and I enjoyed the wind in my hair while taking in the view of the island from my seat. The roads on Isla de Ometepe aren't exactly the best—in fact, they’re pretty atrocious. Rain has washed out parts of them so badly that deep craters and potholes litter the ground. But for Paul, it was no problem.
We were making good progress when a steep track appeared ahead of us. Again, no issue for Paul; he was skilled at maneuvering and had a firm grip on the bike. But then, something completely unexpected happened. As we bumped our way up the track, my sleeping bag came loose from the backpack mount and got caught in the rear tire. In an instant, the bedding turned into a trap, winding itself around the tire and jamming it. Paul felt the sudden, hard stop; I realized something was wrong, too, and jumped off the bike immediately. Paul came to a complete halt and tried to keep the bike upright, but—as is often the case in these places—we were only wearing sandals (offering great grip on clay soil). The path was riddled with deep ruts and holes; he stepped right into a deep gap and lost his footing. It all happened so suddenly that it was a miracle neither of us was hurt.
Aside from some muddy shoes and clay splatters on our trousers, we came through the fall unscathed—but don't ask me how you get a motorbike moving again when a) it’s steep, b) there’s no solid footing, and c) you can't even get back onto the bike... It’s simple: you push. :-)
In the end, we reached our destination, and I waited on the beach at Merida for the rest of our travel group...
Iñigo & Paul
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* Esteli *
(2003)
In Estelí, too, I met a friendly guide who wanted to take me around the city and the surrounding area on his moped. As an avid street art fan, the Sandinista murals from the 80s were, of course, a must-see. So, our first route took us through the city of Estelí to track down all the wall paintings...
Below: Wartime graffiti on a military barracks.
Unfortunately, this graffiti wasn't fully captured in the photo... I hadn't realized it was painted on the wall of a Nicaraguan military installation. It wasn't obvious, and just as I started taking a full picture of the mural, a loud, shrill voice rang out: "STOP!"
We turned around and found ourselves staring straight down the barrel of a rifle pointed at us by a man in a military uniform. Didn't I know this was a military zone?
With wide, questioning eyes, I gestured to the soldier to show that there was no way to tell; I explained that I simply wanted to photograph the mural and had no intention of spying on the military facility. Back then, I was still shooting on film, and the guy demanded I hand over the roll from my camera. I refused, instead making it clear that it had been an honest mistake and assuring him that the photos showed only the artwork, not the barracks.
After a long back-and-forth, he believed us, and we made sure to get away from the place as quickly as possible.
Thank God it ended well and I managed to save my film!
To wrap things up, we headed out into the countryside to visit the only watering hole in the area around Estelí. There, we encountered a group of children who were working more than playing—though they still managed to find moments now and then to simply be kids... Well, that’s how it is here in Nicaragua: child labor—a common sight!
* Bilwi *
alias Puerto Cabezas
(2010)
Tour I: Riding a motorcycle three-up is always a challenge, yet it’s the norm in Nicaragua. Whenever we wanted to escape the city, Larry would rent a bike, and off we’d go. |
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Streets & Surroundings Bilwis
The Untamed Coast: Exploring the Unique Landscape of Puerto Cabezas, Nicaragua
When travelers think of Nicaragua, they usually picture the dramatic volcanic peaks, massive freshwater lakes, and colonial architecture of the Pacific West. However, the North Caribbean Coast Autonomous Region (RACCN) offers a completely different world. Centered around Puerto Cabezas (known locally in the indigenous Miskito language as Bilwi), this region features a wild, flat, and water-dominated wilderness.
Here are the essential geographical facts and landscape features that define this remote Caribbean frontier.
The Untamed Coast: Exploring the Unique Landscape of Puerto Cabezas, Nicaragua
When travelers think of Nicaragua, they usually picture the dramatic volcanic peaks, massive freshwater lakes, and colonial architecture of the Pacific West. However, the North Caribbean Coast Autonomous Region (RACCN) offers a completely different world. Centered around Puerto Cabezas (known locally in the indigenous Miskito language as Bilwi), this region features a wild, flat, and water-dominated wilderness.
Here are the essential geographical facts and landscape features that define this remote Caribbean frontier.
Red Earthen Cliffs: Unlike the low-lying swamps of the surrounding areas, the town of Puerto Cabezas sits on a slightly elevated bluff made of distinct red clay and earth, looking out directly over the Caribbean Sea. The territory surrounding Puerto Cabezas is a giant hydrological network. Because the terrain is incredibly flat, heavy tropical rainfall drains slowly, creating vast wetlands like Laguna de Karatá: Located just south of the city, this massive, brackish lagoon is bordered by dense mangrove forests. It serves as a vital ecosystem and home to indigenous Miskito communities living in traditional stilt houses.
Tour II: On our way to the university URACCAN through the pine forests |
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The Caribbean Pine Savannas: Locally known as El Llano, these vast, flat plains are dominated by native Caribbean pine trees (Pinus caribaea) scattered across acidic grasslands rather than typical tropical palms.
The Gateway to Bosawás: Further inland, these savannas transition into dense, untouched tropical rainforests heading toward the Bosawás Biosphere Reserve—the second-largest rainforest in the Americas after the Amazon.
Río Tuapi
The Mighty Rivers: Powerful waterways like the Río Wawa slice through the landscape. Traveling to Puerto Cabezas by land requires crossing the Wawa River on a legendary, rustic motorized ferry barge (La lancha del Wawa).
The road towards the University URACCAN
University URACCAN
Facts:
Targeted Curriculum: Academic degrees are strictly tailored to the socio-economic needs of the Caribbean coast, focusing primarily on intercultural nursing, sustainable agroforestry, and regional environmental management.
Facts:
- Full Name: Universidad de las Regiones Autónomas de la Costa Caribe Nicaragüense (URACCAN).
- Year of Foundation: 1994.
- Multilingualism: The official languages utilized for instruction and campus communication are Spanish, Miskito, Mayangna, and Creole English.
- Preservation of Heritage: The university houses the specialized IPILC institute (Institute for Linguistic Promotion, Research, and Cultural Rescue) to document and preserve the endangered languages and oral traditions of regional indigenous groups
Targeted Curriculum: Academic degrees are strictly tailored to the socio-economic needs of the Caribbean coast, focusing primarily on intercultural nursing, sustainable agroforestry, and regional environmental management.
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Tour III:
Origin and History of Bilwi
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Houses & Surroundings of Bilwi
In some places, you can still find houses destroyed by the hurricane.
The Hurricane Path: The landscape is constantly reshaped by intense weather systems. Major Caribbean hurricanes (such as Felix in 2007, and the consecutive category-4 storms Eta and Iota in 2020) routinely alter the coastlines, test the resilience of the local forests, and reshape the river deltas.
In some places, you can still find houses destroyed by the hurricane.
The Hurricane Path: The landscape is constantly reshaped by intense weather systems. Major Caribbean hurricanes (such as Felix in 2007, and the consecutive category-4 storms Eta and Iota in 2020) routinely alter the coastlines, test the resilience of the local forests, and reshape the river deltas.
Culture and Society
- Multicultural Society: The local population consists of a highly distinct cultural mix, including indigenous Miskitos and Mayangnas, Afro-descendants (Creoles), and Mestizos.
- Multilingualism: Four languages are spoken simultaneously and fluently on the streets: Miskito, Mayangna, Creole English, and Spanish.
- Architecture: The city's landscape is historically defined by Caribbean-style wooden houses built on stilts. This design provides protection from high tides and allows sea breezes to naturally cool the interiors.
On the way to the community of Kamla near Bilwi
From there, we headed to Lamlaya, a neighboring town of Bilwi.
Lamlaya Port
From there, you can reach other Miskito and Criollo communities connected by the region's rivers.
Ruins in Lamlaya
* Chevy Tour from León to Río Escondido *
Ever driven a Chevrolet through the jungle?
I have, and I have to say, it was an unforgettable moment in my life...
In León, I met a Swiss man named Marcel who was traveling with his Nicaraguan girlfriend—but not by bus or car... No, he had his own vehicle: a vintage car, specifically a Chevrolet... To save money, he would ask travelers if they wanted to ride along and simply split the cost of fuel... No sooner said than done, and off we went into the mountains...
From León to Estelí, from Estelí to Jinotega, and from there to Matagalpa... *Las Montañas*—the mountains of Nicaragua—are little known, yet enchanting and breathtakingly beautiful. And they hold a forgotten history...
* Jinotega *
* Matagalpa *
.... and from there, we headed toward the Atlantic coast. The road that took us to El Rama was in the kind of disastrous condition typical of all roads in Nicaragua—simply shitty! And, of course, the Chevy made it a particular challenge. Because the vehicle sat so low, we had to drive with extreme focus and caution; it required careful maneuvering—and we absolutely had to avoid tearing open the underbody! But eventually, we reached our destination. For the moment, the road trip was over. From this point on, the only way forward was by boat... Off to the next adventure!
No matter whether by car, bus, on foot, by moped, or hitchhiking... traveling is wonderful! I love it :-)
