The NORTH - Las MONTANAS
(2002/2003)
(2002/2003)
Roads of Mist and Coffee
Leaving the scorching heat of the Pacific lowlands behind, our journey took us deep into a completely different face of Nicaragua—the rugged, emerald-green northern highlands, affectionately known as las montañas. This is a land shaped by misty cloud forests, cascading waterfalls, and sprawling, historic coffee plantations nestled high in the cool mountain air. My very first encounter with this spectacular territory dates back to the turn of the millennium during my unforgettable travels in 2002 and 2003, a time when these remote peaks still felt like a raw, uncharted frontier.
Leaving the scorching heat of the Pacific lowlands behind, our journey took us deep into a completely different face of Nicaragua—the rugged, emerald-green northern highlands, affectionately known as las montañas. This is a land shaped by misty cloud forests, cascading waterfalls, and sprawling, historic coffee plantations nestled high in the cool mountain air. My very first encounter with this spectacular territory dates back to the turn of the millennium during my unforgettable travels in 2002 and 2003, a time when these remote peaks still felt like a raw, uncharted frontier.
San Cristobal (1745m), Casita & Telica (1061m)
A Swiss Chevrolet and Uncharted Trails
To kick off this chapter of my website, I am featuring the panoramic photos I took of these breathtaking mountain vistas and endless ridges. The story behind those images is an adventure in itself: we conquered these winding, bumpy mountain roads in an old, rugged Chevrolet. The truck belonged to a Swiss traveler I had crossed paths with, who generously offered me a seat and took me along for the ride across some of the most challenging and isolated stretches of the north. Cruising through the mountain passes with the windows rolled down, watching the clouds drift directly through the pine trees, was the ultimate introduction to Nicaragua's wild, highland heart.
To kick off this chapter of my website, I am featuring the panoramic photos I took of these breathtaking mountain vistas and endless ridges. The story behind those images is an adventure in itself: we conquered these winding, bumpy mountain roads in an old, rugged Chevrolet. The truck belonged to a Swiss traveler I had crossed paths with, who generously offered me a seat and took me along for the ride across some of the most challenging and isolated stretches of the north. Cruising through the mountain passes with the windows rolled down, watching the clouds drift directly through the pine trees, was the ultimate introduction to Nicaragua's wild, highland heart.
Estelí 2002: Murals, Motorcycles, and Hidden Waterfalls
Waterfall at Esteli - Puente La Sirena
Cruising the Capital of the North
My northern highland expedition in 2002 brought me to the vibrant city of Estelí, the legendary heart of Nicaragua’s cigar industry and revolutionary history. Right after arriving, I crossed paths with a wonderful local guy who offered to show me his hometown from the back of his motorcycle. Whipping through the bustling streets on two wheels was the ultimate way to experience Estelí’s authentic energy, taking in the city's famous, colorful political murals and lively markets at a thrilling pace.
Waterfall at Esteli - Puente La Sirena
Cruising the Capital of the North
My northern highland expedition in 2002 brought me to the vibrant city of Estelí, the legendary heart of Nicaragua’s cigar industry and revolutionary history. Right after arriving, I crossed paths with a wonderful local guy who offered to show me his hometown from the back of his motorcycle. Whipping through the bustling streets on two wheels was the ultimate way to experience Estelí’s authentic energy, taking in the city's famous, colorful political murals and lively markets at a thrilling pace.
The Hidden Oasis of Puente La Sirena
Leaving the city streets behind, my local guide navigated the motorcycle out into the surrounding countryside to show me a true hidden gem: the Waterfall at Esteli - Puente La Sirena. Tucked away beneath a historic bridge, this spectacular waterfall sits nestled inside a lush, rocky canyon where cooling mountain water plunges into a refreshing natural basin. Standing in front of this serene oasis, completely surrounded by dense green wilderness, felt like discovering a secret tropical sanctuary far away from the usual tourist trails.
Leaving the city streets behind, my local guide navigated the motorcycle out into the surrounding countryside to show me a true hidden gem: the Waterfall at Esteli - Puente La Sirena. Tucked away beneath a historic bridge, this spectacular waterfall sits nestled inside a lush, rocky canyon where cooling mountain water plunges into a refreshing natural basin. Standing in front of this serene oasis, completely surrounded by dense green wilderness, felt like discovering a secret tropical sanctuary far away from the usual tourist trails.
Corn Poppies & Geraniums
In the foreseeable future, men will live like geraniums—with strong fragrance and red blossoms—and women like prolific corn poppies... Corn poppies and geraniums bear their fruit wherever the sweeping wind chooses to carry them. * Gaspar Garcia Laviana
In the foreseeable future, men will live like geraniums—with strong fragrance and red blossoms—and women like prolific corn poppies... Corn poppies and geraniums bear their fruit wherever the sweeping wind chooses to carry them. * Gaspar Garcia Laviana
Estelí 2002
The Transformation of Estelí: From Revolutionary Silence to Bustling Hub
Chasing Ghosts on a Motorcycle
When I first explored Estelí back in 2002, the city felt like a completely sleepy, time-warped mountain town. There was barely any traffic on the streets, and a quiet, heavy atmosphere hung over the blocks. What captivated me most were the raw, authentic murals and political graffiti covering the walls—vivid, original art left behind directly from the days of the revolution.
The Transformation of Estelí: From Revolutionary Silence to Bustling Hub
Chasing Ghosts on a Motorcycle
When I first explored Estelí back in 2002, the city felt like a completely sleepy, time-warped mountain town. There was barely any traffic on the streets, and a quiet, heavy atmosphere hung over the blocks. What captivated me most were the raw, authentic murals and political graffiti covering the walls—vivid, original art left behind directly from the days of the revolution.
It was during this initial trip that my local guide took me for a ride on his moped, leading to a heart-stopping encounter just outside the city. Spotting a striking piece of revolutionary graffiti on a wall, I immediately raised my camera and snapped a photo. What I didn't realize was that the wall belonged to an active military base. Within seconds, an armed soldier marched out, demanding that I hand over my film roll! In the days before digital cameras, exposing the film meant losing all my precious travel memories, not just one shot. Thankfully, after a tense conversation, the soldier showed some mercy and let me keep the roll. That lucky photograph is proudly featured right here on my website today!
Estelí 2008
The story of Estelí... and how I met Sandino...
The story of Estelí... and how I met Sandino...
"Rincoln Legal"
Bar y Restaurante con Historia de Nicaragua
(Owner: Franklin Legall Melendez)
A Museum of Sound: Meeting Sandino’s Legacy in 2008
Returning to the highlands in 2008, I witnessed the town slowly evolving, and it was during this visit that I truly got to understand the deep spirit of Augusto César Sandino. I crossed paths with a German traveler named Corinna, who was together with Franklin Legal—the owner of one of Estelí’s most legendary bars. Stepping into his tavern felt like walking straight into a living museum dedicated to Sandino and the Sandinista revolution. The walls were completely packed with historic photos, old flags, and war memorabilia, while the speakers filled the air with the powerful chords of música testimonial—the iconic, rebellious folk songs of the struggle. I spent hours soaking in the revolutionary energy and photographing the evolving street art across town.
Bar y Restaurante con Historia de Nicaragua
(Owner: Franklin Legall Melendez)
A Museum of Sound: Meeting Sandino’s Legacy in 2008
Returning to the highlands in 2008, I witnessed the town slowly evolving, and it was during this visit that I truly got to understand the deep spirit of Augusto César Sandino. I crossed paths with a German traveler named Corinna, who was together with Franklin Legal—the owner of one of Estelí’s most legendary bars. Stepping into his tavern felt like walking straight into a living museum dedicated to Sandino and the Sandinista revolution. The walls were completely packed with historic photos, old flags, and war memorabilia, while the speakers filled the air with the powerful chords of música testimonial—the iconic, rebellious folk songs of the struggle. I spent hours soaking in the revolutionary energy and photographing the evolving street art across town.
To Comrade Blas Real Espinales (Dec 1978)
I met Salvador (that was his war name) in exile in Honduras. He came with Laura to the house where I saw him only once. He was thin with strangely sweet & luminous eyes. (The following week he went back to Nicaragua where he died in battle in Chinandega.) I barely knew him but keep on seeing those eyes, intensly open & vulnerable to death.
* Daisy Zamora
I met Salvador (that was his war name) in exile in Honduras. He came with Laura to the house where I saw him only once. He was thin with strangely sweet & luminous eyes. (The following week he went back to Nicaragua where he died in battle in Chinandega.) I barely knew him but keep on seeing those eyes, intensly open & vulnerable to death.
* Daisy Zamora
Unfortunately, the bar doesn' t exist anymore!!!
!Patria libre o morir!
!Hasta la victoria siempre!
(Augusto Cesar Sandino)
!Hasta la victoria siempre!
(Augusto Cesar Sandino)
Estelí 2019
The Ghost Town and an Unexpected Bavarian Encounter
Before the massive boom of recent years, I returned to Estelí in 2019 during a very tense chapter of Nicaragua's history. Following the severe civil unrest of 2018, the country's tourism industry had completely collapsed. I was on my way to Somoto to swim through the famous canyon and made a brief stop in Estelí to buy some authentic, premium cigars for a coworker back home. The city felt like an absolute ghost town, and I was literally the only tourist on the streets.
The Ghost Town and an Unexpected Bavarian Encounter
Before the massive boom of recent years, I returned to Estelí in 2019 during a very tense chapter of Nicaragua's history. Following the severe civil unrest of 2018, the country's tourism industry had completely collapsed. I was on my way to Somoto to swim through the famous canyon and made a brief stop in Estelí to buy some authentic, premium cigars for a coworker back home. The city felt like an absolute ghost town, and I was literally the only tourist on the streets.
When I stepped into a local cigar shop, the lovely lady working there was incredibly welcoming and spontaneously took me to the back to show me the fascinating, traditional cigar-rolling production. It was there that the universe threw another wild coincidence my way. Out of nowhere, I bumped into a guy from Munich! He stared at me in absolute disbelief—he owned a specialized cigar shop in Bavaria, was in town strictly for business, and never in a million years expected to cross paths with a lone female tourist from Augsburg in a deserted Nicaraguan factory. We ended up having a great time chatting and sharing a laugh about how small the world really is.
Estelí 2022
The New Capital of the North
Fast forward to 2022, and the contrast could not have been more shocking. The ghost town of 2019 and the sleepy streets of my youth were completely gone, replaced by a bustling, highly energetic economic hub. The once-empty roads were now packed with roaring traffic, neon signs, and international travelers drawn to the region's booming cigar economy. Sadly, almost all of the historic, raw graffiti from 2002 and 2008 had vanished from the center, painted over by modern advertisements. Seeing Estelí stretch across three decades made me realize how fast time moves, but looking at my old photos, I am incredibly grateful I got to experience its quiet, revolutionary soul before the modern world rushed in.
The New Capital of the North
Fast forward to 2022, and the contrast could not have been more shocking. The ghost town of 2019 and the sleepy streets of my youth were completely gone, replaced by a bustling, highly energetic economic hub. The once-empty roads were now packed with roaring traffic, neon signs, and international travelers drawn to the region's booming cigar economy. Sadly, almost all of the historic, raw graffiti from 2002 and 2008 had vanished from the center, painted over by modern advertisements. Seeing Estelí stretch across three decades made me realize how fast time moves, but looking at my old photos, I am incredibly grateful I got to experience its quiet, revolutionary soul before the modern world rushed in.
A 20-Year Reunion and a City-Wide Art Gallery
My return to Estelí in 2022 wasn't just about witnessing the city's economic boom—it was deeply personal. I came back for the incredible chance to reunite with an old Nicaraguan friend named Jorge, whom I hadn't seen in exactly 20 years. After checking into my hotel in the evening, I headed out to a local bar where we had agreed to meet. The reunion was absolutely massive, filled with endless laughter and memories. To make things even better, Jorge proudly announced that he had managed to rent a motorcycle for my visit. I was over the moon!
My return to Estelí in 2022 wasn't just about witnessing the city's economic boom—it was deeply personal. I came back for the incredible chance to reunite with an old Nicaraguan friend named Jorge, whom I hadn't seen in exactly 20 years. After checking into my hotel in the evening, I headed out to a local bar where we had agreed to meet. The reunion was absolutely massive, filled with endless laughter and memories. To make things even better, Jorge proudly announced that he had managed to rent a motorcycle for my visit. I was over the moon!
The very next day, we jumped onto the bike and went on an extensive, thrilling tour through every corner of the city, retracing the steps of my youth. While the raw, political graffiti of 2002 had completely vanished, Estelí had transformed into something else entirely. The city is now home to mind-blowing street art masters. The walls have become a living canvas, and with nearly 200 photos of different, massive wall arts captured on my camera, I can safely say that Estelí has turned into an open-air gallery in its own right.
The Wings of Estelí: A Cold War Aircraft in the Park
An Unexpected Urban Landmark
As we navigated the modern streets of Estelí with Jorge on his motorcycle, we stumbled upon an incredibly unusual sight that perfectly captures the unique character of the city. Resting permanently on concrete pillars right in the middle of the Parque de la Familie y la Comunidad stands a massive, fully preserved airplane. Seeing the striking silhouette of a Let L-410 UVP passenger plane surrounded by playground equipment, lush green grass, and families relaxing in the mountain breeze is a wonderful, surreal experience that you definitely wouldn't expect to find here.
An Unexpected Urban Landmark
As we navigated the modern streets of Estelí with Jorge on his motorcycle, we stumbled upon an incredibly unusual sight that perfectly captures the unique character of the city. Resting permanently on concrete pillars right in the middle of the Parque de la Familie y la Comunidad stands a massive, fully preserved airplane. Seeing the striking silhouette of a Let L-410 UVP passenger plane surrounded by playground equipment, lush green grass, and families relaxing in the mountain breeze is a wonderful, surreal experience that you definitely wouldn't expect to find here.
A Relic of the Aviation Era
This specific aircraft is a legendary piece of aviation history. Developed in Czechoslovakia during the late 1960s, these rugged, dependable "Turbolets" were built to operate under the harshest conditions, capable of taking off and landing on short, unpaved dirt strips. During the late 20th century, aircraft like this were the absolute backbone of regional travel across Central America, used heavily by local air taxis and regional airlines to connect isolated mountain towns and jungle communities. Instead of being scrapped and forgotten, the municipality of Estelí gave this retired bird a proud second life. Today, it serves as a fascinating, hands-on monument where children can play and travelers can admire a piece of cold-war era engineering up close.
This specific aircraft is a legendary piece of aviation history. Developed in Czechoslovakia during the late 1960s, these rugged, dependable "Turbolets" were built to operate under the harshest conditions, capable of taking off and landing on short, unpaved dirt strips. During the late 20th century, aircraft like this were the absolute backbone of regional travel across Central America, used heavily by local air taxis and regional airlines to connect isolated mountain towns and jungle communities. Instead of being scrapped and forgotten, the municipality of Estelí gave this retired bird a proud second life. Today, it serves as a fascinating, hands-on monument where children can play and travelers can admire a piece of cold-war era engineering up close.
The Soul of the Streets: A Monument of Dignity
Among the hundreds of murals I photographed during my motorcycle tour with Jorge in 2022, one specific masterpiece stopped us completely in our tracks. This hyperrealistic portrait is the brilliant collaborative work of two of Estelí’s most talented modern street art masters: María Alejandra Pineda (Pineda Art) and Kevin Laguna (Vink Laguna). While the older murals of 2002 focused heavily on political warfare, this new generation of artists channels their skill into hyperrealism, celebrating the true identity and everyday faces of the local community.
Vink and Pineda have indeed created murals on a number of walls in the "Diamante de las Segovias" (as Estelí is known). Another extremely famous and frequently photographed work is "Julio Cumbo." He is a homeless man who has walked the city blocks for many years, deeply loved by the community for his gentle and humble nature. By framing his weathered face with a massive, vibrant explosion of tropical flowers, the artists didn't just paint a wall—they created a breathtaking monument of dignity, proving that the true heroes of modern Estelí are the resilient souls who wander its streets.
Among the hundreds of murals I photographed during my motorcycle tour with Jorge in 2022, one specific masterpiece stopped us completely in our tracks. This hyperrealistic portrait is the brilliant collaborative work of two of Estelí’s most talented modern street art masters: María Alejandra Pineda (Pineda Art) and Kevin Laguna (Vink Laguna). While the older murals of 2002 focused heavily on political warfare, this new generation of artists channels their skill into hyperrealism, celebrating the true identity and everyday faces of the local community.
Vink and Pineda have indeed created murals on a number of walls in the "Diamante de las Segovias" (as Estelí is known). Another extremely famous and frequently photographed work is "Julio Cumbo." He is a homeless man who has walked the city blocks for many years, deeply loved by the community for his gentle and humble nature. By framing his weathered face with a massive, vibrant explosion of tropical flowers, the artists didn't just paint a wall—they created a breathtaking monument of dignity, proving that the true heroes of modern Estelí are the resilient souls who wander its streets.
Masterpieces of the City Gallery
The artist duo has significantly shaped the face of Estelí in recent years. Although the country's political reality caught up with Kevin Laguna in 2024, forcing him to leave Nicaragua, his street art remains an integral part of the city's history.
- La Veranera (The Bougainvillea): A stunning signature collaboration between Pineda and Laguna. It seamlessly blends a highly detailed, realistic portrait of a local woman with a brilliantly blooming, vibrant bougainvillea tree.
- Murales de Estelí Heroico: A massive, powerful public project where Kevin "Vink" Laguna contributed deeply emotional, larger-than-life portraits honoring historic student resistance and community identity.
- The Censored Miss Universe Mural: A historic wall near the former Red Cross branch that briefly became a viral global sensation. When Nicaragua’s Sheynnis Palacios won Miss Universe 2023, Vink Laguna began painting a massive celebratory portrait. Because she became an accidental symbol of anti-government protest, local authorities abruptly shut down the project and painted over the unfinished art—making its absence one of the most talked-about spots in the city.
The artist duo has significantly shaped the face of Estelí in recent years. Although the country's political reality caught up with Kevin Laguna in 2024, forcing him to leave Nicaragua, his street art remains an integral part of the city's history.
Mirador San Luis
(2022)
Scaling the Mountain Roads on Two Wheels
After a deeply emotional reunion and a mind-blowing tour through Estelí’s vibrant street art gallery, Jorge and I decided it was time to escape the bustling city center. The very next morning, we hopped back onto our rented motorcycle and hit the winding roads leading up into the rugged, emerald-green highlands surrounding the city. Escaping into the crisp, cool mountain air on two wheels felt like pure freedom, with every twist and turn of the road revealing the raw, untouched beauty of Nicaragua's northern mountains.
(2022)
Scaling the Mountain Roads on Two Wheels
After a deeply emotional reunion and a mind-blowing tour through Estelí’s vibrant street art gallery, Jorge and I decided it was time to escape the bustling city center. The very next morning, we hopped back onto our rented motorcycle and hit the winding roads leading up into the rugged, emerald-green highlands surrounding the city. Escaping into the crisp, cool mountain air on two wheels felt like pure freedom, with every twist and turn of the road revealing the raw, untouched beauty of Nicaragua's northern mountains.
Staring Over the Edge at Mirador San Luis
Our very first destination of the day led us straight to the spectacular Mirador San Luis. This high-altitude viewpoint sits perched on a dramatic mountain ridge, offering one of the most breathtaking panoramic vistas in the entire region. Standing at the edge of the lookout, the sheer scale of the landscape was absolutely humbling. Below us, the endless valley of Estelí stretched out like a giant green carpet, framed by the jagged silhouettes of distant volcanic peaks and rolling pine forests. It was the perfect, quiet spot to shut off the motorcycle engine, catch our breath, and just marvel at the stunning world of las montañas.
Our very first destination of the day led us straight to the spectacular Mirador San Luis. This high-altitude viewpoint sits perched on a dramatic mountain ridge, offering one of the most breathtaking panoramic vistas in the entire region. Standing at the edge of the lookout, the sheer scale of the landscape was absolutely humbling. Below us, the endless valley of Estelí stretched out like a giant green carpet, framed by the jagged silhouettes of distant volcanic peaks and rolling pine forests. It was the perfect, quiet spot to shut off the motorcycle engine, catch our breath, and just marvel at the stunning world of las montañas.
A Mystical Preview at the Lookout
While Jorge and I were enjoying the massive views at Mirador San Luis, we stumbled upon a small, faded banner hanging right at the lookout that instantly caught our eye. It read "Piedras Labradas en Tisey"(Carved Stones in Tisey) and featured a small photograph of an elderly man with wild white hair standing next to a massive stone sculpture. We couldn't help but laugh out loud at the timing—this mysterious artist was the exact reason we had driven up into the mountains, and his sanctuary was our very next destination!
While Jorge and I were enjoying the massive views at Mirador San Luis, we stumbled upon a small, faded banner hanging right at the lookout that instantly caught our eye. It read "Piedras Labradas en Tisey"(Carved Stones in Tisey) and featured a small photograph of an elderly man with wild white hair standing next to a massive stone sculpture. We couldn't help but laugh out loud at the timing—this mysterious artist was the exact reason we had driven up into the mountains, and his sanctuary was our very next destination!
Reserva Natural Tisey-Estanzuela
The Living Stones of El Jalacate
We jumped back onto the motorcycle and navigated the winding trail into the Reserva Natural Tisey-Estanzuela, heading straight for a remote, forested property called El Jalacate. This is the kingdom of Alberto Gutiérrez, a local legend who has spent over 40 years of his life single-handedly carving an entire mountain ridge into a jaw-dropping open-air gallery. Guided by visions he had as a child, Alberto walks out into the forest every single day with just a hammer and a chisel, transforming massive, rough volcanic boulders into intricate sculptures of animals, historic heroes, and spiritual figures. Walking through this mystical forest labyrinth, completely surrounded by his "living stones," felt like stepping straight into a surreal fairy tale nestled deep in the Nicaraguan highlands
The Living Stones of El Jalacate
We jumped back onto the motorcycle and navigated the winding trail into the Reserva Natural Tisey-Estanzuela, heading straight for a remote, forested property called El Jalacate. This is the kingdom of Alberto Gutiérrez, a local legend who has spent over 40 years of his life single-handedly carving an entire mountain ridge into a jaw-dropping open-air gallery. Guided by visions he had as a child, Alberto walks out into the forest every single day with just a hammer and a chisel, transforming massive, rough volcanic boulders into intricate sculptures of animals, historic heroes, and spiritual figures. Walking through this mystical forest labyrinth, completely surrounded by his "living stones," felt like stepping straight into a surreal fairy tale nestled deep in the Nicaraguan highlands
Fast Facts: Alberto's Carved Stones (Piedras Labradas)
- The Artist: Alberto Gutiérrez, a deeply eccentric and incredibly welcoming local hermit who has been carving the mountain rocks since the late 1970s.
- The Scale: The site features hundreds of individual carvings directly embedded into the rock face, ranging from massive elephants and jaguars to depictions of the Twin Towers and local indigenous history.
- The Location: Nestled inside the beautiful, cloud-covered Reserva Natural Tisey-Estanzuela, located about 15 kilometers south of Estelí.
- A Unique Experience: There is no official entry fee, and travelers are usually welcomed by Alberto himself, who loves to passionately tell the stories and spiritual visions behind every single chisel stroke.
A Guided Tour Through a Rocky Fairytale
Lady Luck was completely on our side once again because the legendary Alberto Gutiérrez was right there to welcome us in person. He took us on a personal guided tour through his entire property, and the sheer scale of the place was absolutely staggering—it is incredibly huge! Walking behind this passionate artist as he pointed out one masterpiece after another left us completely breathless. The level of detail he achieves with just a basic hammer and chisel is mind-blowing, and we found ourselves in a constant state of wonder at his endless creativity.
Lady Luck was completely on our side once again because the legendary Alberto Gutiérrez was right there to welcome us in person. He took us on a personal guided tour through his entire property, and the sheer scale of the place was absolutely staggering—it is incredibly huge! Walking behind this passionate artist as he pointed out one masterpiece after another left us completely breathless. The level of detail he achieves with just a basic hammer and chisel is mind-blowing, and we found ourselves in a constant state of wonder at his endless creativity.
Ancient Petroglyphs on the Ridge
The ultimate highlight came when Alberto led us further up the mountain trail, winding high into the dense forest. At the very top of the ridge, he proudly showed us authentic, ancient indigenous petroglyphs carved into the stone centuries ago by the area's original native inhabitants. Seeing these pre-Columbian relics sitting right next to Alberto's modern carvings created a deeply mystical, full-circle connection to the mountain's history.
The ultimate highlight came when Alberto led us further up the mountain trail, winding high into the dense forest. At the very top of the ridge, he proudly showed us authentic, ancient indigenous petroglyphs carved into the stone centuries ago by the area's original native inhabitants. Seeing these pre-Columbian relics sitting right next to Alberto's modern carvings created a deeply mystical, full-circle connection to the mountain's history.
Handcrafted Treasures at the Mountain Shop
To wrap up this unforgettable encounter, we stopped by his charming little on-site shop before heading back. The small wooden cabin was packed with unique, handcrafted treasures and local souvenirs made by Alberto and his family. Buying a little token from his collection was the perfect, memorable end to our expedition into the heart of Tisey.
To wrap up this unforgettable encounter, we stopped by his charming little on-site shop before heading back. The small wooden cabin was packed with unique, handcrafted treasures and local souvenirs made by Alberto and his family. Buying a little token from his collection was the perfect, memorable end to our expedition into the heart of Tisey.
San Rafael del Norte
(2008)
Rebel History and a Hidden Devil
A Highland Road Trip with Little Felipe and Lily
Stepping back into the year 2008, I loaded up our rental truck for another epic expedition deep into the northern highlands. This time, I was joined by my 4-year-old son Felipe and a wonderful friend from Ireland named Lily. Our winding route through the fresh mountain air led us straight to the historic town of San Rafael del Norte, a quiet mountain sanctuary packed with massive colonial history and deep ties to Nicaragua's revolutionary soul.
(2008)
Rebel History and a Hidden Devil
A Highland Road Trip with Little Felipe and Lily
Stepping back into the year 2008, I loaded up our rental truck for another epic expedition deep into the northern highlands. This time, I was joined by my 4-year-old son Felipe and a wonderful friend from Ireland named Lily. Our winding route through the fresh mountain air led us straight to the historic town of San Rafael del Norte, a quiet mountain sanctuary packed with massive colonial history and deep ties to Nicaragua's revolutionary soul.
The Controversial Devil of the Cathedral
However, the most mind-blowing and jaw-dropping discovery of the day was waiting for us inside the beautiful, towering Catedral San Rafael Arcángel. The church is world-famous for its massive, dramatic murals painted back in the 1990s by the Italian artist Maurizio Govoni. As we walked down the aisle and looked up at the stunning painting of the Archangel Michael fighting the forces of darkness, we noticed a shocking, highly controversial detail: the face of the Devil cast down into the fiery pit was a direct, unmistakable portrait of Daniel Ortega, the president of Nicaragua! Seeing this bold political statement permanently frozen on the walls of a sacred church was a wild reminder of how deeply the conflicts of the revolution run through every fabric of Nicaraguan life.
However, the most mind-blowing and jaw-dropping discovery of the day was waiting for us inside the beautiful, towering Catedral San Rafael Arcángel. The church is world-famous for its massive, dramatic murals painted back in the 1990s by the Italian artist Maurizio Govoni. As we walked down the aisle and looked up at the stunning painting of the Archangel Michael fighting the forces of darkness, we noticed a shocking, highly controversial detail: the face of the Devil cast down into the fiery pit was a direct, unmistakable portrait of Daniel Ortega, the president of Nicaragua! Seeing this bold political statement permanently frozen on the walls of a sacred church was a wild reminder of how deeply the conflicts of the revolution run through every fabric of Nicaraguan life.
Walking in the Footsteps of Sandino
Our second stop in town was the Museo Casa Blanca, the historic headquarters where the national hero General Augusto C. Sandino actually lived and planned his guerrilla campaign. It was also the home of his brave wife, Blanca Aráuz, who served as his telegraph operator and a key strategist. Exploring the old wooden rooms filled with authentic telegrams, faded photographs, and rusty weapons was an incredible history lesson, and even little Felipe was fascinated by the raw energy of the place.
Our second stop in town was the Museo Casa Blanca, the historic headquarters where the national hero General Augusto C. Sandino actually lived and planned his guerrilla campaign. It was also the home of his brave wife, Blanca Aráuz, who served as his telegraph operator and a key strategist. Exploring the old wooden rooms filled with authentic telegrams, faded photographs, and rusty weapons was an incredible history lesson, and even little Felipe was fascinated by the raw energy of the place.
Fast Facts: San Rafael del Norte
- The Location: A picturesque, high-altitude colonial town nestled in the Jinotega department, known for its cool climate and cloud forests.
- The Wedding Ground: Sandino and Blanca Aráuz were famously married in the town's church in May 1927, making San Rafael the cradle of their revolutionary partnership.
- The Infamous Mural: The cathedral's ceiling features a mural where the artist intentionally gave Satan the facial features of Daniel Ortega as a silent, artistic protest against his regime during the 1990s.
The Milk Mules of a Sleepy Mountain Town
Looking back at my photos from 2008, San Rafael del Norte felt like a completely time-warped, hidden mountain sanctuary. The streets were incredibly quiet, and life moved at a slow, traditional rhythm. One of my favorite images from that trip perfectly captures this peaceful era: two hardworking mules tethered outside a colonial building, patiently carrying large, heavy metal canisters packed to the brim with fresh morning milk. This was how the mountain communities brought their dairy down from the high pastures—a beautiful, authentic scene where time seemed to stand still.
Looking back at my photos from 2008, San Rafael del Norte felt like a completely time-warped, hidden mountain sanctuary. The streets were incredibly quiet, and life moved at a slow, traditional rhythm. One of my favorite images from that trip perfectly captures this peaceful era: two hardworking mules tethered outside a colonial building, patiently carrying large, heavy metal canisters packed to the brim with fresh morning milk. This was how the mountain communities brought their dairy down from the high pastures—a beautiful, authentic scene where time seemed to stand still.
2022: The Modern Transition
When I drove back through San Rafael del Norte in 2022, the contrast was absolutely mind-blowing. The sleepy, isolated village of 2008 was gone, replaced by a bustling, lively town. The quiet streets are now filled with the roar of motorbikes, modern cars, and new businesses serving travelers. While the crisp mountain air and the stunning cathedral remain, the traditional milk mules have mostly been replaced by trucks and mopeds. Experiencing this rapid modern transition firsthand made me incredibly grateful that I got to capture that quiet, traditional slice of highland life before the fast-paced modern world took over.
When I drove back through San Rafael del Norte in 2022, the contrast was absolutely mind-blowing. The sleepy, isolated village of 2008 was gone, replaced by a bustling, lively town. The quiet streets are now filled with the roar of motorbikes, modern cars, and new businesses serving travelers. While the crisp mountain air and the stunning cathedral remain, the traditional milk mules have mostly been replaced by trucks and mopeds. Experiencing this rapid modern transition firsthand made me incredibly grateful that I got to capture that quiet, traditional slice of highland life before the fast-paced modern world took over.
Jinotega
(2003)
The City of Mists from a Swiss Chevrolet
A Panoramic Greeting Above the Clouds
Stepping back into the year 2003, my wild mountain journey in the old Swiss Chevrolet led us higher and higher into the rugged ridges until we finally reached a dramatic mountain pass overlooking Jinotega. Standing high above the valley, the panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking. Below us lay the famous "Ciudad de las Brumas" (The City of Mists), beautifully nestled inside a deep green basin and partially shrouded in thin, drifting mountain clouds. It was an iconic sight that perfectly captured the raw, mysterious charm of Nicaragua's northern coffee highlands.
(2003)
The City of Mists from a Swiss Chevrolet
A Panoramic Greeting Above the Clouds
Stepping back into the year 2003, my wild mountain journey in the old Swiss Chevrolet led us higher and higher into the rugged ridges until we finally reached a dramatic mountain pass overlooking Jinotega. Standing high above the valley, the panoramic view was absolutely breathtaking. Below us lay the famous "Ciudad de las Brumas" (The City of Mists), beautifully nestled inside a deep green basin and partially shrouded in thin, drifting mountain clouds. It was an iconic sight that perfectly captured the raw, mysterious charm of Nicaragua's northern coffee highlands.
Cruising Through the Sleepy Streets
As we drove down the winding roads and passed directly through the heart of Jinotega, the town itself felt incredibly quiet and frozen in time. Back in 2003, Jinotega was a completely sleepy, traditional mountain outpost where life moved at a glacial pace. Horse-drawn carts and old pickup trucks dominated the cobblestone streets, and the central plaza around the cathedral was a peaceful sanctuary for locals enjoying the fresh, cool highland air.
As we drove down the winding roads and passed directly through the heart of Jinotega, the town itself felt incredibly quiet and frozen in time. Back in 2003, Jinotega was a completely sleepy, traditional mountain outpost where life moved at a glacial pace. Horse-drawn carts and old pickup trucks dominated the cobblestone streets, and the central plaza around the cathedral was a peaceful sanctuary for locals enjoying the fresh, cool highland air.
Fast Forward to 2022: Becoming a Highland Local
While Jinotega was just a beautiful, fleeting memory through a car window in 2003, the northern mountains would call me back in a much bigger way nearly twenty years later. In 2022, I returned to these exact highlands, but this time, I didn't just pass through. I moved to the neighboring mountain capital of Matagalpafor several months, living like a true local. This extended stay gave me the ultimate opportunity to take a deep dive into the region, exploring every hidden waterfall, coffee finca, and mountain trail under a microscope—but more on that epic adventure next!
While Jinotega was just a beautiful, fleeting memory through a car window in 2003, the northern mountains would call me back in a much bigger way nearly twenty years later. In 2022, I returned to these exact highlands, but this time, I didn't just pass through. I moved to the neighboring mountain capital of Matagalpafor several months, living like a true local. This extended stay gave me the ultimate opportunity to take a deep dive into the region, exploring every hidden waterfall, coffee finca, and mountain trail under a microscope—but more on that epic adventure next!
Jinotega
(2022)
Fast Facts: Jinotega (The City of Mists)
- The Name: Known as the "City of Mists" due to the unique microclimate created by the surrounding cloud forests, which frequently blanket the valley in a beautiful, ethereal fog.
- The Economy: Nicaragua's ultimate coffee powerhouse, producing the vast majority of the nation's high-quality, shade-grown Arabica coffee beans.
- The Altitude: Situated at roughly 1,000 meters (3,280 feet) above sea level, making it one of the highest and coolest major cities in the country.
Undercover Conversations in the City of Mists
Connections Across Borders
My return to Jinotega in 2022 was nothing like the sleepy drive-by of 2003. This time, I was driven by a deeper mission: to understand the raw, hidden reality of modern Nicaragua. While traveling through El Salvador, I had crossed paths with Jilmer, a political exile from Jinotega who had been forced to flee his homeland four years prior. Determined to see his hometown through a deeper lens, my trusted mountain guide from Matagalpa, Memo, hooked me up with a local tourist guide in Jinotega. This guide was not only willing to show us the sights but crucially agreed to speak with me privately and secretly about the heavy political situation gripping the country.
Connections Across Borders
My return to Jinotega in 2022 was nothing like the sleepy drive-by of 2003. This time, I was driven by a deeper mission: to understand the raw, hidden reality of modern Nicaragua. While traveling through El Salvador, I had crossed paths with Jilmer, a political exile from Jinotega who had been forced to flee his homeland four years prior. Determined to see his hometown through a deeper lens, my trusted mountain guide from Matagalpa, Memo, hooked me up with a local tourist guide in Jinotega. This guide was not only willing to show us the sights but crucially agreed to speak with me privately and secretly about the heavy political situation gripping the country.
Echoes of Rebellion on the Forbidden Ridge
Memo accompanied me on this tense trek as we climbed the steep trails of the Cerro Apante Natural Reserve. Our destination was the famous, towering Peña de la Cruz—a massive holy cross perched on the mountain ridge overlooking the entire city. Standing beneath the giant cross, surrounded by drifting mountain mist, our local guide opened up and shared the harrowing reality his family faces. Because they openly stand against the current political regime, his family members were systematically targeted and stripped of their jobs. Listening to his hushed words on that windy peak, with the city laid out below us, was a stark reminder of the fear and oppression that ordinary Nicaraguans endure behind closed doors.
Fast Facts: Peña de la Cruz & Cerro Apante
Memo accompanied me on this tense trek as we climbed the steep trails of the Cerro Apante Natural Reserve. Our destination was the famous, towering Peña de la Cruz—a massive holy cross perched on the mountain ridge overlooking the entire city. Standing beneath the giant cross, surrounded by drifting mountain mist, our local guide opened up and shared the harrowing reality his family faces. Because they openly stand against the current political regime, his family members were systematically targeted and stripped of their jobs. Listening to his hushed words on that windy peak, with the city laid out below us, was a stark reminder of the fear and oppression that ordinary Nicaraguans endure behind closed doors.
Fast Facts: Peña de la Cruz & Cerro Apante
- The Monument: La Peña de la Cruz is a famous holy cross standing 800 meters above Jinotega, originally erected by a Franciscan friar in 1703 to protect the town from floods and volcanic disasters.
- The Strategic Height: During the conflicts of the 1970s and 80s, these exact ridges held immense strategic military importance for guerrilla forces due to their perfect bird's-eye view over Jinotega.
Big Ben in the Mountains
After our intense conversation on the mountain ridge, Memo, our guide, and I hiked back down into the heart of Jinotega. We directed our steps straight toward the town's architectural crown jewel: the spectacular Catedral de San Juan Bautista. Walking up to the towering facade, I was immediately struck by its unique, magnificent clock tower. The majestic clock face and its distinct surrounding stonework look incredibly similar to the world-famous Big Ben in London, creating a wonderfully striking and unexpected European touch right in the middle of the Nicaraguan highlands.
A Sovereign Relic Beneath the Altar
Stepping inside the quiet, cavernous sanctuary revealed an even more staggering piece of global history. This cathedral holds a highly exclusive, sacred honor: it is the only church in the entire world—outside of a single, specific sanctuary inside the Vatican—that permanently houses an authentic, holy torso relic of Jesus Christ preserved directly beneath its main altar.
After that, we went to the museum.
Fast Facts: San Juan Bautista Cathedral
After our intense conversation on the mountain ridge, Memo, our guide, and I hiked back down into the heart of Jinotega. We directed our steps straight toward the town's architectural crown jewel: the spectacular Catedral de San Juan Bautista. Walking up to the towering facade, I was immediately struck by its unique, magnificent clock tower. The majestic clock face and its distinct surrounding stonework look incredibly similar to the world-famous Big Ben in London, creating a wonderfully striking and unexpected European touch right in the middle of the Nicaraguan highlands.
A Sovereign Relic Beneath the Altar
Stepping inside the quiet, cavernous sanctuary revealed an even more staggering piece of global history. This cathedral holds a highly exclusive, sacred honor: it is the only church in the entire world—outside of a single, specific sanctuary inside the Vatican—that permanently houses an authentic, holy torso relic of Jesus Christ preserved directly beneath its main altar.
After that, we went to the museum.
Fast Facts: San Juan Bautista Cathedral
- The Clock: The iconic tower clock was imported directly from Europe in the early 20th century, cementing its legendary local nickname as the "Big Ben of the North."
- The Papal Honor: The rare holy relic housed beneath the altar makes the cathedral a highly significant destination for religious pilgrimages across Central America.
Jinotega Municipal Museum
The Golden Age of Cinema: Antiguo Cine Colón
After taking in the historical cathedrals and mountain views, Memo and I headed straight into the Jinotega Municipal Museum. This place holds an absolutely mind-blowing, eclectic collection of artifacts charting the town's evolution, starting with a fascinating look at the local history of film. A beautifully preserved plaque reveals that back in its golden era, Jinotega was such a prominent hub that it even housed a Guatemalan consulate. The consul himself, Don Vicente González Guerra, went on to revolutionize local entertainment in the 1940s by founding the town's very first cinema-theater: El Colón.
The Legacy of Don Colón
The theater quickly became the beating cultural heart of Jinotega, serving not just as a movie house but as a grand platform for live theater, classical music, and passionate poetry readings honoring Nicaragua's famous poet Rubén Darío. In the 1970s, ownership shifted to Don Ramón Lanzas Aráuz—affectionately nicknamed "Don Colón"—a man who had worked at the theater since his youth as a projectionist. He bought the projectors and seats to keep the cinematic magic alive for local families. Tragically, the curtains closed for good in the early 1990s, and the historic building was later demolished. Today, a modern bank stands where the theater once roared with applause, but walking through the museum and seeing the actual vintage retro-projectors donated by the Lanzas family lets you step straight back into Jinotega's cinematic past.
The Golden Age of Cinema: Antiguo Cine Colón
After taking in the historical cathedrals and mountain views, Memo and I headed straight into the Jinotega Municipal Museum. This place holds an absolutely mind-blowing, eclectic collection of artifacts charting the town's evolution, starting with a fascinating look at the local history of film. A beautifully preserved plaque reveals that back in its golden era, Jinotega was such a prominent hub that it even housed a Guatemalan consulate. The consul himself, Don Vicente González Guerra, went on to revolutionize local entertainment in the 1940s by founding the town's very first cinema-theater: El Colón.
The Legacy of Don Colón
The theater quickly became the beating cultural heart of Jinotega, serving not just as a movie house but as a grand platform for live theater, classical music, and passionate poetry readings honoring Nicaragua's famous poet Rubén Darío. In the 1970s, ownership shifted to Don Ramón Lanzas Aráuz—affectionately nicknamed "Don Colón"—a man who had worked at the theater since his youth as a projectionist. He bought the projectors and seats to keep the cinematic magic alive for local families. Tragically, the curtains closed for good in the early 1990s, and the historic building was later demolished. Today, a modern bank stands where the theater once roared with applause, but walking through the museum and seeing the actual vintage retro-projectors donated by the Lanzas family lets you step straight back into Jinotega's cinematic past.
Sacred Clay and Ancient Tribes
Moving deeper into the museum's archaeological wing, Memo and I marveled at an incredible collection of prehistoric pottery and heavy stone sculptures. One unique artifact completely stood out from the glass display cases: Pieza No. 39. This ancient, beautifully molded ceramic figurine depicts a highly stylized, multi-colored monkey frozen in a dynamic kneeling posture.
The Desired Virtue of Cunning
The museum plaque reveals a fascinating insight into the spiritual world of Nicaragua's ancestors. In pre-Columbian cultures, monkeys were deeply venerated creatures. They stood out above all other jungle animals due to their supreme cleverness and sharp wit (astucia). This sharp intelligence was a highly prized virtue that indigenous community members deeply desired for themselves, making figurines like this powerful symbolic links to the animal's spiritual traits.
Moving deeper into the museum's archaeological wing, Memo and I marveled at an incredible collection of prehistoric pottery and heavy stone sculptures. One unique artifact completely stood out from the glass display cases: Pieza No. 39. This ancient, beautifully molded ceramic figurine depicts a highly stylized, multi-colored monkey frozen in a dynamic kneeling posture.
The Desired Virtue of Cunning
The museum plaque reveals a fascinating insight into the spiritual world of Nicaragua's ancestors. In pre-Columbian cultures, monkeys were deeply venerated creatures. They stood out above all other jungle animals due to their supreme cleverness and sharp wit (astucia). This sharp intelligence was a highly prized virtue that indigenous community members deeply desired for themselves, making figurines like this powerful symbolic links to the animal's spiritual traits.
A Treasury of Lost Currency
The next corner of the Jinotega Municipal Museum pulled us straight into the turbulent 20th-century history of Nicaragua. We found ourselves staring at a massive, fascinating numismatic collection packed with historic banknotes from past decades. The display features rare bills tracking the nation's extreme economic shifts, including old, high-denomination notes like the 20,000 and 100,000 Córdoba bills from the hyperinflation crisis of the late 1980s. Looking closely at the faded paper, you can spot the changing faces of history, from the traditional national heroes like Sandino to portraits of fallen revolutionary figures.
Relics of the Revolution
Right alongside the currency cases, the museum displays an impressive collection of authentic vintage photographs charting Jinotega's past urban landscape. But what truly brings the raw, dramatic reality of the region's conflicts to life is the weaponry display. Put underneath of table glas, heavy machine guns used during the fierce guerrilla fighting of the Sandinista Revolution and the subsequent Contra War. Seeing these cold, metallic instruments of war resting next to the very currency that funded those volatile decades creates an incredibly powerful, intense historical atmosphere.
The next corner of the Jinotega Municipal Museum pulled us straight into the turbulent 20th-century history of Nicaragua. We found ourselves staring at a massive, fascinating numismatic collection packed with historic banknotes from past decades. The display features rare bills tracking the nation's extreme economic shifts, including old, high-denomination notes like the 20,000 and 100,000 Córdoba bills from the hyperinflation crisis of the late 1980s. Looking closely at the faded paper, you can spot the changing faces of history, from the traditional national heroes like Sandino to portraits of fallen revolutionary figures.
Relics of the Revolution
Right alongside the currency cases, the museum displays an impressive collection of authentic vintage photographs charting Jinotega's past urban landscape. But what truly brings the raw, dramatic reality of the region's conflicts to life is the weaponry display. Put underneath of table glas, heavy machine guns used during the fierce guerrilla fighting of the Sandinista Revolution and the subsequent Contra War. Seeing these cold, metallic instruments of war resting next to the very currency that funded those volatile decades creates an incredibly powerful, intense historical atmosphere.
Capturing the Past: The Photographic Chronicles of Jinotega
A Visual Timeline of High Society and War
Right next to the heavy machine guns and faded banknotes, the museum opens up into a spectacular, sweeping gallery of vintage photography that completely brings Jinotega’s modern history to life. The black-and-white images offer an intimate glimpse into the town's evolution, showcasing elegant social events and elite gatherings from past eras. The walls are lined with moving portraits of the most famous personalities, politicians, and artists who originally shaped Jinotega's identity. But the collection doesn't hide the town's scars; right alongside the high-society snapshots are raw, historic images captured during the height of the revolution, showing local combatants marching down the very cobblestone roads you walk on today.
Lost Streets and the Story of Lake Apanás
For architecture and nature lovers, this wing is an absolute goldmine. The exhibit features rare, panoramic shots of old colonial buildings and dusty, horse-drawn streets before modern asphalt took over the town center. A fascinating, dedicated segment of the display focuses entirely on the creation and history of Lake Apanás. The historic photographs document the massive engineering feat behind building this spectacular artificial reservoir in 1964—a vital source of hydroelectric power for Nicaragua that beautifully transformed the northern landscape into a sanctuary for exotic migratory birds and local fishermen.
A Visual Timeline of High Society and War
Right next to the heavy machine guns and faded banknotes, the museum opens up into a spectacular, sweeping gallery of vintage photography that completely brings Jinotega’s modern history to life. The black-and-white images offer an intimate glimpse into the town's evolution, showcasing elegant social events and elite gatherings from past eras. The walls are lined with moving portraits of the most famous personalities, politicians, and artists who originally shaped Jinotega's identity. But the collection doesn't hide the town's scars; right alongside the high-society snapshots are raw, historic images captured during the height of the revolution, showing local combatants marching down the very cobblestone roads you walk on today.
Lost Streets and the Story of Lake Apanás
For architecture and nature lovers, this wing is an absolute goldmine. The exhibit features rare, panoramic shots of old colonial buildings and dusty, horse-drawn streets before modern asphalt took over the town center. A fascinating, dedicated segment of the display focuses entirely on the creation and history of Lake Apanás. The historic photographs document the massive engineering feat behind building this spectacular artificial reservoir in 1964—a vital source of hydroelectric power for Nicaragua that beautifully transformed the northern landscape into a sanctuary for exotic migratory birds and local fishermen.
Lago de Apanás
(2022)
The Fellowship of the Lake
(2022)
The Fellowship of the Lake
Girl Power and Paddling Mishaps at Chilamate
Following our fascinating tour through the museum, it was time to escape into the natural wonders just outside Jinotega. We packed into a car and headed straight for the shores of Lago de Apanás. We were a fantastic, hilarious crew: my trusted guide Memo, his loyal taxi driver Benito, one of my local students named Ariel, and a wonderful Austrian backpacker whom I had spontaneously invited to come stay with me at my place in Matagalpa. Our destination was a peaceful lakeside spot called Chilamate, a beautiful ecotourism area famous for renting out kayaks to explore the massive reservoir.
Following our fascinating tour through the museum, it was time to escape into the natural wonders just outside Jinotega. We packed into a car and headed straight for the shores of Lago de Apanás. We were a fantastic, hilarious crew: my trusted guide Memo, his loyal taxi driver Benito, one of my local students named Ariel, and a wonderful Austrian backpacker whom I had spontaneously invited to come stay with me at my place in Matagalpa. Our destination was a peaceful lakeside spot called Chilamate, a beautiful ecotourism area famous for renting out kayaks to explore the massive reservoir.
Leaving the Men in the Wake
Without hesitation, we geared up: Memo claimed a single kayak, the Austrian girl and I teamed up in a tandem boat, and Benito and Ariel took the third one. As we pushed off into the water, we girls automatically assumed we would be the slowest of the bunch. Our goal was a small, green island rising out of the water in the distance. We dug our paddles into the lake, found a perfect rhythm, and cruised across the water. Halfway to the island, we casually glanced back over our shoulders—and burst out laughing. While we were flying across the lake, the men were practically still stuck at the shoreline! We reached the island, hopped out, and fully explored its hidden corners before the guys finally wobbled ashore. It turned out that neither Benito nor Ariel had ever set foot in a kayak before, and they were completely clueless about how to steer or row.
Without hesitation, we geared up: Memo claimed a single kayak, the Austrian girl and I teamed up in a tandem boat, and Benito and Ariel took the third one. As we pushed off into the water, we girls automatically assumed we would be the slowest of the bunch. Our goal was a small, green island rising out of the water in the distance. We dug our paddles into the lake, found a perfect rhythm, and cruised across the water. Halfway to the island, we casually glanced back over our shoulders—and burst out laughing. While we were flying across the lake, the men were practically still stuck at the shoreline! We reached the island, hopped out, and fully explored its hidden corners before the guys finally wobbled ashore. It turned out that neither Benito nor Ariel had ever set foot in a kayak before, and they were completely clueless about how to steer or row.
Cheering Benito to the Finish Line
To make sure we actually made it back before dark, we immediately changed the constellation for the return journey. Ariel and Memo teamed up in one boat, while the taxi driver Benito hopped into the back of my tandem kayak. The ride back turned into a true test of my motivational skills! Poor Benito had absolutely zero stamina and no power for this kind of sport, leaving me to do most of the heavy lifting from the front seat. I spent the entire journey vigorously paddling and loudly cheering him on to keep his spirits up. Against all odds, with a lot of sweat, laughter, and relentless encouragement, we eventually made it back to the docks of Chilamate in one piece—making for the ultimate, unforgettable end to our day on the lake.
To make sure we actually made it back before dark, we immediately changed the constellation for the return journey. Ariel and Memo teamed up in one boat, while the taxi driver Benito hopped into the back of my tandem kayak. The ride back turned into a true test of my motivational skills! Poor Benito had absolutely zero stamina and no power for this kind of sport, leaving me to do most of the heavy lifting from the front seat. I spent the entire journey vigorously paddling and loudly cheering him on to keep his spirits up. Against all odds, with a lot of sweat, laughter, and relentless encouragement, we eventually made it back to the docks of Chilamate in one piece—making for the ultimate, unforgettable end to our day on the lake.
Fast Facts: Lago de Apanás & Chilamate
- The Eco-Hub: Chilamate is a popular community-led eco-tourism center on the lake, offering kayak rentals, local food, and horseback riding trails.
- The Lake's Wildlife: Despite being artificial, the lake is a designated Ramsar Site of international importance, serving as a vital sanctuary for over 150 species of rare migratory birds and waterfowl.
- The Scale: Spanning over 54 square kilometers, its calm but vast waters can surprise beginners with challenging head-on winds, making proper paddling technique essential.
FRESANICA
(2022)
Strawberries in the Cloud Forest: A Jinotega Road Trip
Nicaragua is famous for volcanoes and coffee, right? Well, think again. Tucked into the chilly highlands near Jinotega lies a hidden, sweet paradise that completely breaks the tropical cliché.
As we wound our way up from Matagalpa, the air turned crisp and the famous mountain mist rolled in. Having my two Nica friends Benito behind the wheel and Ariel by my side turned the steep highway drive into a fun, effortless road trip.
FRESANICA: High-Tech Berries
Our destination was FRESANICA in the cool Las Pilas zone. This isn't your traditional farm. They use a state-of-the-art hydroponic system, growing plump strawberries vertically in coconut coir substrate. It is sustainable, high-tech, and absolutely fascinating to see.
Shakes First, Greenhouses Next
The hospitality here is unmatched. Right at the start, we were welcomed with fresh batidos de fresa(strawberry shakes). Sipping those cool drinks while exploring the innovative greenhouses with the guys made for the perfect, sweet highland escape.
(2022)
Strawberries in the Cloud Forest: A Jinotega Road Trip
Nicaragua is famous for volcanoes and coffee, right? Well, think again. Tucked into the chilly highlands near Jinotega lies a hidden, sweet paradise that completely breaks the tropical cliché.
As we wound our way up from Matagalpa, the air turned crisp and the famous mountain mist rolled in. Having my two Nica friends Benito behind the wheel and Ariel by my side turned the steep highway drive into a fun, effortless road trip.
FRESANICA: High-Tech Berries
Our destination was FRESANICA in the cool Las Pilas zone. This isn't your traditional farm. They use a state-of-the-art hydroponic system, growing plump strawberries vertically in coconut coir substrate. It is sustainable, high-tech, and absolutely fascinating to see.
Shakes First, Greenhouses Next
The hospitality here is unmatched. Right at the start, we were welcomed with fresh batidos de fresa(strawberry shakes). Sipping those cool drinks while exploring the innovative greenhouses with the guys made for the perfect, sweet highland escape.
Gala-Ray Apple Farm
(2022)
Apples in the Tropics: Breaking Nature's Rules
Next stop: Vivero Gala-Ray, a farm that is pulling off the scientifically impossible. Standard apples need freezing winter temperatures to grow, but the owner, Raymond Hawkins, spent over 15 years developing a mind-blowing alternative. His custom Gala-Ray apple variety is fully adapted to Nicaragua's climate. He told us that these trees can survive and produce massive, sweet fruits even in the intense, tropical heat of Managua.
(2022)
Apples in the Tropics: Breaking Nature's Rules
Next stop: Vivero Gala-Ray, a farm that is pulling off the scientifically impossible. Standard apples need freezing winter temperatures to grow, but the owner, Raymond Hawkins, spent over 15 years developing a mind-blowing alternative. His custom Gala-Ray apple variety is fully adapted to Nicaragua's climate. He told us that these trees can survive and produce massive, sweet fruits even in the intense, tropical heat of Managua.
The Ghost Church of Las Pilas
Right down the road from the apple farm, we stumbled upon a breathtaking sight: the skeletal ruins of an old church. Standing lonely in the middle of a vibrant green pasture, only its weathered concrete facade and a carved cross remain. Against the backdrop of Jinotega’s rolling mountains and fluffy white clouds, it felt like discovering a beautiful, silent monument frozen in time.
Right down the road from the apple farm, we stumbled upon a breathtaking sight: the skeletal ruins of an old church. Standing lonely in the middle of a vibrant green pasture, only its weathered concrete facade and a carved cross remain. Against the backdrop of Jinotega’s rolling mountains and fluffy white clouds, it felt like discovering a beautiful, silent monument frozen in time.
Whispers in the Wind
There are no official history books or tour guides telling the story of this place. Looking at the concrete style, it likely served as a lively village chapel in the mid-to-late 20th century. In a region dominated by fierce tropical storms, mudslides, and relentless mountain humidity, a broken roof usually means the end. Over time, the jungle swallowed the walls, leaving behind nothing but this unbreakable front wall. It’s a beautiful reminder that in the Nicaraguan highlands, nature always has the last word.
There are no official history books or tour guides telling the story of this place. Looking at the concrete style, it likely served as a lively village chapel in the mid-to-late 20th century. In a region dominated by fierce tropical storms, mudslides, and relentless mountain humidity, a broken roof usually means the end. Over time, the jungle swallowed the walls, leaving behind nothing but this unbreakable front wall. It’s a beautiful reminder that in the Nicaraguan highlands, nature always has the last word.
Cerro Datanlí-El Diablo Nature Reserve
(2022)
The Secret Falls: Chasing La Bujona
Not all adventures go according to plan, and honestly, those are always the best ones. Our next day trip took us deep into the Cerro Datanlí-El Diablo Nature Reserve. The drive itself was a wild ride—spectacular, endless views of vibrant coffee plantations contrasted by some of the bumpy, unpaved terrain the Nicaraguan highlands are famous for.
The Unexpected Roadblock
When we finally arrived, ready to hike, we hit a massive snag: we were told the area was closed and entering wasn't allowed. Our cloud forest mission seemed completely dead in the water.
(2022)
The Secret Falls: Chasing La Bujona
Not all adventures go according to plan, and honestly, those are always the best ones. Our next day trip took us deep into the Cerro Datanlí-El Diablo Nature Reserve. The drive itself was a wild ride—spectacular, endless views of vibrant coffee plantations contrasted by some of the bumpy, unpaved terrain the Nicaraguan highlands are famous for.
The Unexpected Roadblock
When we finally arrived, ready to hike, we hit a massive snag: we were told the area was closed and entering wasn't allowed. Our cloud forest mission seemed completely dead in the water.
Local Kindness Wins
But if there is one thing you can always count on here, it is the incredible warmth of the people. One of the locals saw our dilemma, stepped in to smooth things over, and bypassed the restrictions for us. Not only did he get us in, but he also personally guided us through the tropical forest right to the foot of Cascada La Bujona. Watching the massive wall of water crash down into the hidden jungle canyon made every single bumpy kilometer completely worth it (the first photo in the following gallery shows the Cerro Diablo with a height of 1650m).
But if there is one thing you can always count on here, it is the incredible warmth of the people. One of the locals saw our dilemma, stepped in to smooth things over, and bypassed the restrictions for us. Not only did he get us in, but he also personally guided us through the tropical forest right to the foot of Cascada La Bujona. Watching the massive wall of water crash down into the hidden jungle canyon made every single bumpy kilometer completely worth it (the first photo in the following gallery shows the Cerro Diablo with a height of 1650m).
Centro Turístico El Manantial de Lourdes
(2022)
Chilling at El Manantial: From Highland Oasis to Garden Hideout
When road-tripping the rugged highway between Matagalpa and Estelí, there is one iconic roadside stop you absolutely cannot miss: Centro Turístico El Manantial de Lourdes. Named after the striking shrine of the Virgin Mary right at the entrance, this family-owned property has been a staple of the highland community since it first opened its doors in the late 1990s.
(2022)
Chilling at El Manantial: From Highland Oasis to Garden Hideout
When road-tripping the rugged highway between Matagalpa and Estelí, there is one iconic roadside stop you absolutely cannot miss: Centro Turístico El Manantial de Lourdes. Named after the striking shrine of the Virgin Mary right at the entrance, this family-owned property has been a staple of the highland community since it first opened its doors in the late 1990s.
The Technicolor Stone Walls
What immediately catches your eye when walking around the property is the unique stonework. The old retaining walls and terraces aren't just plain gray rocks; the owners gave them a vibrant makeover. Individual stones are hand-painted in bright, popping shades of primary yellow, deep red, sky blue, and stark white. This quirky, colorful touch adds a wonderful splash of local art and personality to the rustic mountain scenery.
What immediately catches your eye when walking around the property is the unique stonework. The old retaining walls and terraces aren't just plain gray rocks; the owners gave them a vibrant makeover. Individual stones are hand-painted in bright, popping shades of primary yellow, deep red, sky blue, and stark white. This quirky, colorful touch adds a wonderful splash of local art and personality to the rustic mountain scenery.
The Evolution of the Pool
For nearly two decades, the absolute crown jewel of this place was its piscina natural. Up until the late 2010s, it was packed on weekends with locals and travelers cooling off. Unlike modern pools, this massive basin was fed constantly by a fresh, crystal-clear mountain spring.
However, running a true natural pool comes with major challenges. Because the water comes straight from nature without heavy chemicals, algae and mountain sediment build up rapidly. Keeping it pristine required an immense amount of daily maintenance. Eventually, the family made the tough call to close the swimming operation and let nature take the wheel.
For nearly two decades, the absolute crown jewel of this place was its piscina natural. Up until the late 2010s, it was packed on weekends with locals and travelers cooling off. Unlike modern pools, this massive basin was fed constantly by a fresh, crystal-clear mountain spring.
However, running a true natural pool comes with major challenges. Because the water comes straight from nature without heavy chemicals, algae and mountain sediment build up rapidly. Keeping it pristine required an immense amount of daily maintenance. Eventually, the family made the tough call to close the swimming operation and let nature take the wheel.
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Matagalpa at night
